Oil which?

[gh67]

I just stocked up on a few cases (pain in the ass to find locally..so I bought 2) Mobile 1 V-Twin 20W-50 full syn. Anyone used it in a Guzzi? Seems to be tailored towards high temp v-twins. Though we don't really care about the wet clutch performance....but I didn't see any other Mobile 1 that were 20W-50. Worse case I'll use it in the harley

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...win_20W-50.aspx

[richard100t]

I use Valvoline 20w50 full synthetic. I'm thinking I'll change the oil & filter between 3 & 5k miles, depending on motivation lol. I'll probably also change all other fluids every spring need it or not. Has anyone tried synthetic brake fluid yet? Any opinions?

[gh67]

I use Valvoline 20w50 full synthetic. I'm thinking I'll change the oil & filter between 3 & 5k miles, depending on motivation lol. I'll probably also change all other fluids every spring need it or not. Has anyone tried synthetic brake fluid yet? Any opinions?

57580[/snapback]

 

I've been using Valvoline Synpower for brakes and clutch....works great.

 

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/pr....asp?product=51

[svjj]

I just stocked up on a few cases (pain in the ass to find locally..so I bought 2) Mobile 1 V-Twin 20W-50 full syn.  Anyone used it in a Guzzi?  Seems to be tailored towards high temp v-twins.  Though we don't really care about the wet clutch performance....but I didn't see any other Mobile 1 that were 20W-50.  Worse case I'll use it in the harley

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...win_20W-50.aspx

57568[/snapback]

 

I have used the v-twin mobil 20-50 for 15,000 miles. and just had the engine recall. My tech said engine looked clean and great.

I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.

 

[Van]

I love oil threads.

Whether you use synthetic or crude oil  based oil is really based on how cheap you are. One thing I can say is not to even bother spending the extra money on semi-synthetics. There is no minimum guideline on percentage of volume of synthetics, so you just don't know if you are getting 50/50 or 90/10 or 10/90 mix. So don't bother.

The thickness viscosity is of little concern, IF, you use full synthetic, as it simply does not alter it's viscosity through heat variables, and mineral grade most definitely does.

If you plan on changing your oil based on the owners manual specs [10,000kms] you had better be using full synthetic. Period.

In early May I ran my Laverda from Vancouver B.C. to Los Angeles CA., 3.300 miles return, whilst running 15-50 Mobil 1 black cap [motorcycle happy API spec SG] and a buddy ran his Laverda down as well, in exact state of tune, running Castrol GTX motorcycle happy 20-50 mineral gradeAPI spec SG. In L.A., his oil was charcoal black, in fact burnt, not darkened from carbon deposits. My oil was the color of honey. His oil dripped off of the dipstick like water, mine dripped off like fresh oil. He changed his oil, I ran my bike back home. At home his oil was burnt to shit black, mine was the color of honey. His dripped like water, mine like oil.

By all means use mineral grade oil if that is what you budget, but you better change it after every 2000miles/3000kms, because it will be toast.

If synthetic, avoid Motul, only because it is stupidly priced. There are good bike synthetics at less than half Motul's.

                                                                          Ciao, Steve G.

57508[/snapback]

[belfastguzzi]

reduced yak fat 

Pete

57524[/snapback]

Hmm.. exotic, aspirational – and beyond my reach. Would margerine do?

[Skeeve]

...What type of oil is best for V11s? ...Also what mileage is normal for oil changes?

57477[/snapback]

 

Guzzis have one huge advantage over most "unit engine" Bikes due to their (automotive style) dry clutch; this means that you can use any of the "friction modified" oils that plague riders of wet-clutch machines.

 

Others have pointed out that you can use dead-dinosaur juice & change it more often, or full synthetic & go longer between changes: it's purely an owner choice thing.

 

Beyond that, I'd like to point out that in oil tests performed under laboratory conditions, Castrol GTX & diesel formulations were the only dead-dino oils to hold up at all well. Given that an air-cooled engine will "coke" oils much like a diesel- or turbocharged engine (or even moreso), if you aren't using one of these, you should be using a full synthetic.

 

I expect to be using Rotella Syn [cheaper than Mobil 1 15w50] exclusively once past the 10k mile breakin point: using synthetic oils prior to that has been shown to delay bedding in of components.

 

As to your "what mileage" question, my experience with VW bugs [not the Golf with swoopy bodywork they're calling a "Beetle" nowadays; I mean a real Beetle!] was 2000 mi like clockwork on dead dinosaurs or 3000 for synthetics (once they reformulated them so that they stopped eating seals); if you added a filter kit you could stretch it to 3000 miles or 5000 miles syn. Since a Beetle has forced air cooling & a Guzzi doesn't, but the Guzzi does have an oil filter & great natural cooling, I'm going to say 2.5k on dead dinos, 5k on synthetic. That's my story & I'm stickin' to it!

 

BTW, what does the manual say? I didn't get one w/ my bike...

 

Ride on!

 

[pete roper]

Guzzis have one huge advantage over most "unit engine" Bikes due to their (automotive style) dry clutch; this means that you can use any of the "friction modified" oils that plague riders of wet-clutch machines.

 

57713[/snapback]

 

I would very, VERY strongly recommend avoiding any friction modified, (FM) type oil in any air cooled engine. Using them runs a great risk of glazing the bores. While newer formulations *may* be better than the older types it'll be a cold day in hell before I'd use 'em in one of my bikes.

 

Oh, and Steve, while your observations on the break down of oil in your Laverda are interesting the two machines are as different as chalk and cheese! Guzzi? low stress, all plain bearing pushrod motor with a separate gearbox. Laverda? Rolling element bottom end, plain bearing top end, shared engine and transmission lubricant and runs much hotter due to poor heat dumping ability. I hardly think the comparison is a fair one?

 

Pete

[Skeeve]

I would very, VERY strongly recommend avoiding any friction modified, (FM) type oil in any air cooled engine. Using them runs a great risk of glazing the bores. While newer formulations *may* be better than the older types it'll be a cold day in hell before I'd use 'em in one of my bikes.

57729[/snapback]

 

Well, that's good to know, Pete! I didn't realize the FM oils were that big a problem in a/c engines. Since everything is moving to water-cooling and friction-modified "water weight" oils (witness the state of affairs here in the States: you take your car in for an oil change, & you're limited to 10w30 FM oils; you want real oil, you gotta buy it yourself & change it yourself! No problemo for me, but what about if you're a guy in a rush or a gal who's not "into" cars?), the future bodes ill for our old tracto... er, air-cooled engines. Thank heavens that for now, the heavier grades are still w/o modifiers.

 

Just an FYI, for those buying oil in the States, the oil packaging has an SAE emblem that looks sorta like a circle, with a top rocker, center dot, & bottom rocker. If you want oil w/o friction modifiers, look for an empty bottom rocker; FM oils will have something like "friction modified" or similar in the bottom rocker space.

 

Or just look for diesel oils; they're built to take the lickin' that a motorcycle engine dishes out, & so far, they don't have friction modifiers [probably for similar reasons as you pointed out, Pete!]

 

Wheeee! Aren't oil threads FUN?

[Ralph Werner]

Double virgin olive oil (Italian) every 200 miles, whatever the heck that is!.

 

Seriously, if you change frequently any good dino oil will probably work fine. I like Mobil 1 for about 3-4,000 miles with a filter change every two times. This is all that I have used in my Triupmh triple and last two Guzzis. As has often been stated, it's not the oil it's the frequenncy of changes.

[dlaing]

Or just look for diesel oils; )

57734[/snapback]

I am looking for synthetic diesel oil.

If anyone knows where to find it, let me know.

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

^^ How about a truckstop ? Where you'll probably pay out the ass. Or you could look up bulk oil distributor & buy a case

 

http://www.google.com/local?hl=en&lr=&safe...&sa=X&oi=localr

[Guest bshpilot]

I am looking for synthetic diesel oil.

If anyone knows where to find it, let me know.

57748[/snapback]

 

huh ? you must not be lookin very hard...its freekin

all over the place, costco, walmart, autozone, pepboys

 

personally given its cost i stick w/ conventional Rotella T

36bucks for 6gallons at costco....leaves me plenty of

change (compared to synth.) for a blackstone oil test.

[Steve G.]

Hi Pete,

My notes on the two Laverdas was not comparing the Laverda engine to a Guzzi engine, but to show how superior synthetic is compared to mineral grade, under a situation that, agreed, is almost a worst case scenario, the Laverda 3 cylinder engine. The sheering effect of roller bearings throughout, wet clutch, shared gearbox, AND, nothing but a metal screen for a filter. A Laverda engine demands the very best oil.

While I very much agree that deisel oil [in North America, it is generally rated API spec CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, or all of the above, meaning turbo deisel rated], and would use it in a Moto Guzzi engine, I would be carefull using it in an engine of shared gearbox, etc. The main reason is deisel oil does not have a high sheer capability, to combat against the meshing teeth of the gearbox. So, like I did when I was breaking in my Honda CBX engine, I used Castrol RX Super Deisel 15-40, but changed the oil at 500 miles, and again 1000 miles later.

I should note that while I have seen full synthetic deisel oil, I have yet to find 15-50/20-50 synthetic deisel where I live. Otherwise, I would consider it an option for the Guzzi.

Another thing Pete points out is true, that Guzzi engines, like Laverda engines, are quite overbuilt, and Guzzi engines do not overly stress modern oils as other 'extremely high output engines' today. But, Mr. Roper would agree with me that the state of tune of an engine in an old Convert, or 850 T is much softer than the V11-Lemans engine. In fact, I'll go out on a limb by saying I think that Guzzi has reached the apex [or very close to it] of engine output without sacrificing reliabilty with this old 2 valve lump in the V11. They would have to use cam profiles and compression ratios that would render this engine not a pleasant one for regular street use. This noted, I would say that an oil better than Pete's recomended "Yak Spit" or even "Yak Butter" might be in order for the V11's state of tune.

Ciao, Steve G.

[antonio carroccio]

I am looking for synthetic diesel oil.

If anyone knows where to find it, let me know.

57748[/snapback]

Why?

Is the oil for the V11?

What's the deal with synthetic oil for diesel and V11? Is this a good match?