FBF Fender Eliminator

[Guest ramon61]

I have finally installed an fbf fender eliminator I bought a year ago and I can't get it to work properly. (It came without wiring instructions). Tried different combinations with these results - turn signals turn on but don't blink, just stay on until turned off. Stop light has no low beam. Only goes on when I pull brake lever.

Of course, fbf is too busy to return phone calls.

Help, Please!

[Admin Jaap]

Don't understand, this shouldn't be this difficult. 2x 2 wires for the indicators, 3 for the rear light (brake, normal and mass) and 2 for the licence plate light.

[epiantedosi]

I have finally installed an fbf  fender eliminator I bought a year ago and I can't get it to work properly. (It came without wiring instructions). Tried different combinations with these results - turn signals turn on but don't blink, just stay on until turned off.  Stop light has no low beam. Only goes on when I pull brake lever.

Of course, fbf is too busy to return phone calls.

Help, Please!

58681[/snapback]

 

i live in plymouth ma and if you want you can check out my fbf eliminator it works fine

 

erik

[big J]

When I made my number plate bracket and removed the mudguard, I discovered the rear light/indicator wiring wrong from the factory.

No wonder the bloody thing kept blowing fuses

Check the forum for a wiring diagram, thats where I got the info.

[Guest ramon61]

Don't understand, this shouldn't be this difficult. 2x 2 wires for the indicators, 3 for the rear light (brake, normal and mass) and 2 for the licence plate light.

58685[/snapback]

 

 

 

Right. My problem is connecting the bike's tail light wires black to green (ground), red/blue to blue, and yellow to yellow, or reversing the last two connections, I get the result of no light until I pull the brake lever, though the first wiring connection is brighter when I pull the lever. Likewise no blinking with the directionals, only steady light when turned on, and when I reverse the directional wires, no light. I should state that my directionals are aftermarket LEDs.

[belfastguzzi]

I should state that my directionals are aftermarket LEDs.

58699[/snapback]

 

I've eliminated fender and have aftermarket leds. All working fine. It is too late, dark, wet & cold to go out and look now, but if you don't have it sorted tomorrow I'll check the wire colours/connections then.

 

Are the aftermarket LEDs made to work as a straight swap for standard bulbs? If not you could need an extra component or two for the system to see the correct load. Again, I'll check that in the morning if I get time, but someone else who is up to speed with these things might post the info meantime. Also, are you sure that the flasher was working ok just before you did this work?

[belfastguzzi]

I've had a quick look and can't see a lot without disassembly. I don't have any notes / diagrams from the time either, but it is all pretty simple. Unless your specs are different, there is a blue / red wire for the rear stop (brake) light, 21W; and a yellow wire for the 5W tail light. The number plate bulb will also be connected to that. All you need to do is make those two connections. Don't connect into any other spare wires that are lying around the tail end.

 

With the LED indicators: check if there's any info with them to confirm that they have the right circuitry built-in. You could reconnect the original units to check that they (and so the flasher unit) still flash ok.

[Steve G.]

After a year of use with the FBF eliminator, I have mixed reviewes.

The kit allows water spray to come right into the electrics, totally overlooked.

The wiring was not as it was supposed to be, it took time with a multi tester to figure out they had the colors all wrong.

The LED light is trick, the probelm is it is aimed to shoot for the sky, raising my chances of getting rear ended by some squid in a Honda Civi with a cell phone in his ear. The light, because of the alignment tangs on the back, is unable to be flipped unside-down/right side up for proper alignment.

And, take my word for it, the LED light is not vibration proof, as you just have to look at my half empty bottle of super glue.

On the positive side, I enjoy the look of it, it has cleaned up the back end well. Although, I must admit, sawing off half of the factory fender, as Ryan did, would have sufficed, and still had $160cdn in my pocket. I guess I was so impressed with FBF's airbox kit, I thought him infallable. Oh well!!

Ciao, Steve G.

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

Let me add another thing about FBF. I recently bought a PCIII usb that came from FBF new in the box. The PC had a sticker on saying that it was loaded with FBF's V11 sport map. I thought okay I'll just plug it in & take a ride . It ran like crap. It turned out that it was loaded with a Ducati 750/900 map even though it had 2 stickers one on the box & one on the unit saying it was loaded with FBF's V11 Sport map. Beware

[Guest MikeC]

I had no problem installing mine. I noted everything I disconnected. With regards to the gaping hole in the fender I made a plate out of ALU. to cover it up. Whole job from start to finish took me 1 hour. I also replaced the stock turn signals with LED's that match the style of the FBF tail-light. Looks great.

[Guest ramon61]

I wired the original lights back up. Result, original directionals work. brake light works, but not low beam of tail light. Tested light on a battery. Low filament doesn't light. Off to get a new bulb. Then look into fuses.

[Guest ramon61]

I wired the original lights back up. Result, original directionals work. brake light works, but not low beam of tail light. Tested light on a battery. Low filament doesn't light. Off to get a new bulb. Then look into fuses.

58743[/snapback]

 

 

Thanks for everybody's help. Replacing a blown fuse fixed the low beam problem, but could not get LED directionals to blink. Swapped the original incandescents back in and called it a day.

[Guest MikeC]

Thanks for everybody's help. Replacing a blown fuse fixed the low beam problem, but could not get LED directionals to blink. Swapped the original incandescents back in and called it a day.

58761[/snapback]

 

You may need a load balancer if the LED directionals don't blink. I got lucky, mine did not need one. They are all different some systems work without the load balancer some do not.

[Guest ramon61]

You may need a load balancer if the LED directionals don't blink.  I got lucky, mine did not need one.  They are all different some systems work without the load balancer some do not.

58763[/snapback]

 

 

What brand of LED directionals did you get? I'd rather avoid adding extra circuitry and I have trashed one of my LED blinkers so I'm up for a new set.

[callison]

Standard turn signal blinkers rely on the load from at least two incandescent bulbs. LED's don't draw enough current to heat up the bi-metallic strip in the turn signal blinker - so it never starts blinking. You can either add a resistor in parallel with the LED turn signals (and no, I don't know the value, but I suspect that a 2 ohm 5 watt resistor from the Radio Shack would probably work but be forewarned - they're very large and ugly). A possibly better alternative, although ridiculously expensive, would be to install a Kisan SM2 Signal Minder and wire it for the running light function as well. It's an all electronic unit and so it shouldn't care about the actual load of the bulbs. For $100, it had damn well better not care about the load. The Kisan is pretty large too, it's best to make some wire extenders and run them back into the rear of the tailpiece and place the Kisan in there.