wambiker Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 Hi, I've just replaced the original Teed front brake line on my 2000 v11 with a pair of single lines from master cylinder to calipers and a double banjo bolt. Fitting was fine but I can not get the buggers to bleed. I am getting fluid through the system but there is obviously air trapped somewhere in the system. Is this a normal problem with V11s or is it likely to be my altered hoses. Any pointers gratefully recieved, I've had to give up as I'm on duty tonight, will have another go tomorrow. Cheers Gary
dlaing Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 I have never done virgin lines, but I suppose it will be more challenging. Getting rid of the two into one T should help you, not hinder you. But the challenge is that the air is going to rise faster in the fluid than you can pump it down and out of the calibers. There are probably a few solutions: 1) Persistence. I am not sure that will work, but maybe after you pump your 27th bottle of fluid through, all the air will be gone. 2) Speed bleeders. I have never used these, but they MAY help you by allowing you to pump the fluid in faster than the air can rise. But some have trouble with them, and go back to wrenching the standard bleeder. 3) Elevate the calibers. This may be tricky to do. Also, pushing the caliber pistons in, and putting a spacer where the rotor glides, will displace some of the air so that you have less of a battle. 4) Get one of them kits that bleeds the bike backwards. I have never tried that either, but it sounds like the best solution. I am sure others have a lot more experience with these techniques. I have only used persistence and caliber elevation on the rear caliber.
Guest Nogbad Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 Push the pads right back and wedge them with bits of wood. Open the bleed nipples right up and connect 2 pieces of clear tygon dipping into jam jars on each side of the wheel. Pour a small quantity of fluid into each jam jar, enough to cover the end of the tubes Take the top off the master cylinder reservoir, and fill up. Keeping it full, pump the lever smartly until bubbles stop emerging into the jars and HERE LIES THE TRICK. If you stop pumping or pause before all the air is out, it will go back up the line, and you will need to do it all again. Keep pumping until you have put about 250ml of fluid through after the last bubbles were seen. Hold the lever to the bar and get your wife to do up the nipples. Top up and remove the jars, pump the pads up and it should be ok. It's all in smart, quick pumping for long enough to clear all the air in one session. If the above fails to work, reverse bleeding is the next move, but it should work. It does for me.
Guest MikeC Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 Best way to do virgin lines is with a vacuum system such as Mity-Vac. Available at most good auto-parts stores.
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 4) Get one of them kits that bleeds the bike backwards. I have never tried that either, but it sounds like the best solution. I don't know about no kit, but I use a turkey baster with a hose on the end. Fill up the baster & attach the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder & squeeze on the baster. Air rises, bubbles will be seen in the master cylinder.
richard100t Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 Good luck, I tried & tried to bleed my rear line to no success. I finally just took it to the shop & they did it for $10. It is a major pain in the if you dont have tyhe pressure system.
txrider Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 I don't know about no kit, but I use a turkey baster with a hose on the end. Fill up the baster & attach the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder & squeeze on the baster. Air rises, bubbles will be seen in the master cylinder. 58766[/snapback] Do you get a lot of fluid leakage past the threads of the bleeder or maybe seal with teflon tape? Sounds like a good idea for a new unfilled system. Thanks, TX.
wambiker Posted August 28, 2005 Author Posted August 28, 2005 Hi all, sorted it this afternoon . Ended up with the calipers suspended from the handlebars and both calipers beihg bled at the same time via a pair of bleed tubes, one from each nipple. They look OK but when I get over todays trauma I'm going to fit a t-piece behind the headlamp and have just one line from the bars with an angled banjo to align everything just as I want it. The car needs fresh fluid so will invest in a vacumn bleeder to use on bike and car in the future. Cheers Gary
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted August 28, 2005 Posted August 28, 2005 Do you get a lot of fluid leakage past the threads of the bleeder or maybe seal with teflon tape? I've only done this on the front brakes with good results & no leaks using slight pressure. I've been told that to do the back brake you must remove the caliper & turn it right side up. If I had a vacumn bleeder thats what I would use , but I'm always willing to try something basic & Mike at MPH turned me on to using the baster & it worked perfect.
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