Oil Leak Update

[Guest Nogbad]

It took me two hours.

 

I had a real struggle with the top left cover screw. It had been cross threaded by Luigi. I took the horns and the regulator off and was able to get an 18" water pump plier onto the head of the screw and get it moving, but I could only move it about 1/16th of the turn at a time. Once it was about half out, I could use my 4" molegrip on it.

 

The alternator rotor was a bit of a pain to get off, but the nut came off fairly easily with the bike in 6th and my g/f holding the brakes for me. Nut was a weird taper thread affair. Not 22mm. Dunno what metric size it was but a 15/16" socket fitted a treat.

 

The seal was very difficult to extract. I almost took the timing case off, but then cut a slot in the metal part of the seal with a sharp chisel to allow a screwdriver to grip and twist it out of the seat. No damage to seat or shaft.

 

Seal runs on a removable collar trapped between the rotor and the crank shoulder inside the timing chest. Most odd. Useful if it becomes grooved mind you.

 

 

Anyway, job done, total outlay £2.57

 

I loctited the alternator rotor nut and torqued it to 60 lb/ft, hope Roper approves!

[Guest ratchethack]

It took me two hours... total outlay £2.57

Commendable job, Nog - even with Luigi's best attempt to thwart your efforts. But where's that "Neckbolt" you were hankering after?!

[pete roper]

It's worth noting that inside that collar, (Or in a groove on the crankshaft, an't remember which????) there is an o-ring that seals the collar internally. If it continues to leak it might be worth swapping that too. I usually do these as a matched pair. Sorry, I forgot about that in my first reply.

 

Pete

[Guest Nogbad]

Commendable job, Nog - even with Luigi's best attempt to thwart your efforts.  But where's that "Neckbolt" you were hankering after?!

59270[/snapback]

 

IF I get around to buying a Neckbolt, and it is by no means certain, the V11 is probably staying and I am building a shed.

 

I also bought a couple of Bosch relays, a 5 pin and a 4 pin to keep under the seat. These will act as charms, or the relics of the Saints, and will prevent the failure of the Siemens relays.

 

The V11 seems simple and robust, and fairly easy to fix even without a workshop. Plan is now to keep it to 20,000 miles (another 9,500) and have another think then.

[Guest Nogbad]

It's worth noting that inside that collar, (Or in a groove on the crankshaft, an't remember which????) there is an o-ring that seals the collar internally. If it continues to leak it might be worth swapping that too. I usually do these as a matched pair. Sorry, I forgot about that in my first reply.

 

Pete

59282[/snapback]

 

There was no evidence of leakage from the collar internal bore, whereas there was plenty of evidence of leakage from the seal lip. I didn't realise there was an "O" ring in there either. I didn't remove the woodruff key though, so the "O" ring hasn't been slid over any sharp edges.

 

Pete, do you think my guess of about 60 lb/ft for the nut is ok? I installed the nut with dismantlable loctite.

[belfastguzzi]

nogbad nogbad the bad

I'm bad too and I'm calling to you

Nogbaaaad

come to me

Come to meeeeeeee

[Guest Nogbad]

Yes OK. I probably will buy one of these, just not yet. The V11 still lights my fire at the moment. There may well be a two bike solution in the offing.