Redline gear lube question

[bigbikerrick]

And just to clarify two points(one already made):

 

1)  The V11 6-speed does not have the plastic(nylon?) bearing cage that was problematic on some previous models.

 

2)  Many issues with leaking transmissions are directly due to overfilling, so always check this point first.

al

59534[/snapback]

should the tranny be filed to the middle of the window, or to the bottom of the window to avoid leaks?

[BrianG]

should the tranny be filed to the middle of the window, or to the bottom of the window to avoid leaks?

59553[/snapback]

 

Middle of the window, with the bike vertical (upright).

[dlaing]

should the tranny be filed to the middle of the window, or to the bottom of the window to avoid leaks?

59553[/snapback]

Middle should be good.

My less than ideal grade Shockproof Light is about 3/4 up the glass.

I think some say to fill it too the top of the glass and let it blow its way out to find the perfect level.

In any case if the glass is completely submerged that is too much oil and if it is below the glass, that is too little oil.

 

The vague Shop Manual says:

SCHEDULED MAINTENANCEABCGEARBOX LUBRICATIONEvery 3000 mi, check that the oil is visible through theinspection lid “B” positioned on the LH side of the gearbox.Carry out the test with the vehicle in a perfectly verticalposition and when the engine is hot; an incorrect positioncould cause a wrong the reading.If the oil is not visible, top up with the oil...

 

I wish the engine oil had a sight glass.

[bigbikerrick]

Middle should be good.

My less than ideal grade Shockproof Light is about 3/4 up the glass.

I think some say to fill it too the top of the glass and let it blow its way out to find the perfect level.

In any case if the glass is completely submerged that is too much oil and if it is below the glass, that is too little oil.

 

The vague Shop Manual says:

I wish the engine oil had a sight glass.

59558[/snapback]

Thanks for the reply, I agree an engine oil sight glass would be sweet!

[Guest harley]

RL Shockproof Heavy is correct for both the Guzzi trans and bevel box.  The Guzzi trans, as with virtually all motorcycle transmissions, is a constant-mesh design.  Constant-mesh transmissions have no synchro rings in 'em.  RL MTL products are specifically formulated for synchromesh transmissions.  If I remember right, synchro rings are made out of some kind of brass alloy.  They evidently benefit from special stuff to retard wear.

 

If Mike put Redline MT-90 in his Guzzi trans, I doubt it'd hurt anything, but it ain't the best choice IMHO, and it wouldn't be the product RL recommends for the Guzzi trans.  RL now offers 5 synchromesh transmission products, one of which is MT-90.  I've run RL MTL in 2 car transmissions for many hundreds of thou miles for over 20 years, since back when as far as I can remember, there was only one general purpose product available from RL for synchromesh transmissions, MTL.  I can't say enough about the stuff, but I wouldn't consider using it in the Guz. 

59486[/snapback]

I called Red Line in Benica Ca. today and they confirmed what you said. Use Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil in both the transmission and the bevel drive. I changed the transmission today and already notice an improvement in shifting. Mike

[Guest ratchethack]

Great stuff, innit? I wasn't expecting any difference as far as smoothness and 'feel' of the trans, but was pleasantly surprised. Might be too late for a comparison test in your case, but I was also more than surprised - just astounded really - at the difference in the temp (to the touch) of both trans and bevel box after a long hard ride after prior use of "generic" 75W90 synth. gear lube. MUCH cooler running with RLSH!!! Gotta believe this translates to reduction of power losses due to friction.

[Guest Nogbad]

If I put this stuff in there how often should it be changed? The MG changeout intervals are presumably based on dinolube. If the RLSH can be left in there longer that's better for the environment and our wallets.

[Guest ratchethack]

If I put this stuff in there how often should it be changed?

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Now, I'm not saying I agree with this - just relaying my conversation with a Tech at Redline. When I asked this question he said it shouldn't have to be changed at all.

 

Not that this is necessarily germane, but I will say that I put over 100K on one of my cars with RL MTL in the trans, per "no replacement interval" recommendation of RL, and just a month ago it came out looking pretty much the same as it went in. Yes, I put new MTL back in. Got another car with nearly as many miles on the same stuff. Haven't believed I've any need to change it yet, and my mechanic (now doing much of the car maintenance I used to do myself, also a long-time RedLine Guy) agrees.

 

Nope, I don't believe in Voodoo or the Tooth Fairy. Just reporting the facts...

 

Now let the howling begin...

[dlaing]

Now let the howling begin...

59602[/snapback]

oOWooooooooooo!

My 2¢ opinion is that no matter how good the oil is, if water gets in, you should drain it.

One of the alleged issues of our bike is that the vent is prone to water intrusion.

I remember on my V65, I ran a line from the vent up the frame to prevent gear oil blow off....A similar thing could be rigged to our bikes, with the hose oriented to keep rain and road splatter out...and possibly with a fuel filter on it to keep sand and such out.

All the same, pulling the drain plug to get rid of a small percentage of metal debree feels good, even if it is a small percentage.

I love cleaning the magnet

[Guest Nogbad]

Excellent, one more thing I don't have to do. RLSH goes in and stays in then.

 

If you are using it in the bevel box, do you still need the moly additive or not?

[Guest ratchethack]

No moly called for with GL5-rated synthetics.

[Guest Nogbad]

No moly called for with GL5-rated synthetics.

59633[/snapback]

 

Just ordered Redline SH ready for 12000 service, which I have decided to do myself. The only thing I may have done by the shop is the fork oil change.

 

From then on, I shall leave the oil in there changing it only if evidence of milkiness / water appears, or if I have to strip the tranny for any reason.

 

I was reading the high mileage Guzzi stories on Guzzitech and it seems that longevity doesn't have a lot of correlation with oil changing.......

 

Late for a lunchtime meeting today, rode at breakneck speed round the M25 and was pulling 110 mph up the A3 in places. Made it! Sometimes the V11 rules, like when you want arrow straight stability at nutty speeds.

[dlaing]

Another alternative to changing the gear oil would be to drain it, pass it through cheese cloth, let it sit over night to seperate the water from the oil, and put it back in, sans water.

You might lose a little oil, but you saved the left over from the liter, for topping off, right?

[bigbikerrick]

Another alternative to changing the gear oil would be to drain it, pass it through cheese cloth, let it sit over night to seperate the water from the oil, and put it back in, sans water.

You might lose a little oil, but you saved the left over from the liter, for topping off, right?

59642[/snapback]

Probably not worth all the trouble for 8 bucks, but certainly dooable

[belfastguzzi]

oOWooooooooooo!

My 2¢ opinion is that no matter how good the oil is, if water gets in, you should drain it.

One of the alleged issues of our bike is that the vent is prone to water intrusion.

I remember on my V65, I ran a line from the vent up the frame to prevent gear oil blow off....A similar thing could be rigged to our bikes, with the hose oriented to keep rain and road splatter out...and possibly with a fuel filter on it to keep sand and such out.

All the same, pulling the drain plug to get rid of a small percentage of metal debree feels good, even if it is a small percentage.

I love cleaning the magnet

59611[/snapback]

I've put a breather pipe on mine, but still, I imagine that moisture is collected by being sucked in as the whole heap cools down. Surely that must be what happens with the standard breather, rather than all the water just splashing directly in through the vent?

 

Is Redline meant to have properties to deal with this, for life?

Unless all your journeys are long and you're sure that moisture is getting boiled and vented out again, I'd be inclined to change oil, even if at an extended interval. It could be just an unreasonable 'motorbike thing' though. I don't cosset cars so much.

 

Nogbad can let us know how it goes after a good wet winter

and DL can report back after he throws in a cupful of sand to soak-up/filter out the water.