Greased the rear splines today

[bigbikerrick]

after reading posts about the rear wheel splines being dry on some bikes ,I decided I had better check mine, sure enough, my splines were dry and a little rusty, I cleaned off the rust and geased them, the needle bearing on the right side, and the driveshaft splines and rear universal joint. I started to remove the hex bolts on the wheel to look at the cush drive, and darn it, the second bolt I put the hex socket on immediately stripped the hex head. At this point I decided to stop there and not proceed to drill, use an "easy out" ,try to remove it today,and bolted everything back together. My question is ; what needs to be done to the cush drive,and how important is it to be done? I have 5000 miles on my bike at this point. Thanks folks, Ive owned my V 11 for a little over a month and this forum has been GOLDEN!

[Guest ratchethack]

what needs to be done to the cush drive,and how important is it to be done?

See all the fun here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5323&hl=

 

[Guest ckamin]

Anyone have any suggestions on how to lube the front u-joint with taking the entire bike apart? Should I even be concerned on a bike with only anout 2000 miles? At least the rear u-joint and drivesharft zerk fittings are accessible!

 

-Carl

[belfastguzzi]

Anyone have any suggestions on how to lube the front u-joint with taking the entire bike apart? Should I even be concerned on a bike with only anout 2000 miles? At least the rear u-joint and drivesharft zerk fittings are accessible!

 

-Carl

59665[/snapback]

'They' say it's possible with a right angled fitting on the end of a grease gun, but I've never seen one of those, although I've been looking out for one for ages. There are lots of write-ups on it. The fitting often seems to need ground down to fit.

 

– Take the wheel off and then you can clean-up and grease everything in sight: it's not like it has to be done every month.

[Ouiji Veck]

Anyone have any suggestions on how to lube the front u-joint with taking the entire bike apart? Should I even be concerned on a bike with only anout 2000 miles? At least the rear u-joint and drivesharft zerk fittings are accessible!

 

-Carl

59665[/snapback]

 

I ended up using a "needle" type adapter...bent it to my own desire.

It CAN be done.....! I didn't have much faith but a couple of pumps and the

grease wuz ozing out everywhere.

[mark.gilmore]

Hi fellers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Gents.

When i bought my grease gun, it came with a 5" metel tube that screws into the gun, and the end thingy that goes on the nipple screws onto the tube.this makes the thing solid. I then cut the tube and put a 90 deg angle on it 1cm from the end, just nere the thread and got my mate to tig it up. and presto. Cheers Gilly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

w

[mark.gilmore]

Sorry about the gap, duno how to fix that.

[bigbikerrick]

See all the fun here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5323&hl=

 

59652[/snapback]

Thanks for the link, very informative, now i dont feel like such a dildo for stripping out one of the hex bolts.

[Guest Nogbad]

Probably the time to lube the driveshaft "zerks" (what is a ZERK for God's sake, I always called them grease nipples) is at tyre changes when the wheel is out anyway.

 

As for the cush drive, I intend to leave mine till it becomes worn out and rattly, and then investigate it. If it seizes up, what problem. Anyone who causes the cush drive to need to "cush" is either a hooligan, clumsy and incompetent, or lacking in mechanical sympathy.

[Guest ratchethack]

Say Nog, why not leave the driveshaft alone till it becomes worn out and rattly, and investigate it then?

[Guest Nogbad]

Say Nog, why not leave the driveshaft alone till it becomes worn out and rattly, and investigate it then?  

59825[/snapback]

 

The key to "sweating the asset" is to know which parts need preventive strategies, and which can run using a breakdown maintenance plan.

 

In my opinion, the driveshaft is safety critical, and failure could deprive me of operational time. Hence, the driveshaft should be subject to preventive maintenance defined by condition based monitoring.

 

The cushdrive is unlikely to let go catastrophically and when it does start to need attention, this attention can be planned in with the bike running with a ratted cushdrive for a relatively long period until such attention is convenient.

 

This is the modern way to run power stations for example, and is equally applicable to my V11.

 

So yourself!!

[Guest ratchethack]

Interesting. So applying the power station strategy and condition based monitoring, I needn't spend any time sweating my asset over a breakdown maintenance plan.

 

Now I get it. I reckon I'll still take a look at my cush drive at every other tire change and add a little grease from time to time, especially since once the wheel's off, it's easier than reaching the front driveshaft zerk.

[Guest Nogbad]

Interesting.  So applying the power station strategy and condition based monitoring, I needn't sweat my asset over a breakdown maintenance plan.

 

 

59837[/snapback]

 

Nope! Not if you don't mind the odd 3 mile Island anyway!

[badmotogoozer]

either a hooligan, clumsy and incompetent, or lacking in mechanical sympathy. 

59810[/snapback]

 

guilty on all counts, yer honor! Guess I'd better grease the cush drive...

 

 

Rj

[Guest Nogbad]

guilty on all counts, yer honor!  Guess I'd better grease the cush drive...

Rj

59860[/snapback]

 

Well, if you are getting grease on the rubber, you need to use a grease that is ok with natural rubber and that ain't common wheel bearing grease.