quazi-moto Posted September 13, 2005 Posted September 13, 2005 How do you guys like to set up your suspension for fast road work? I've never adjusted anything on my '02 LeMans, but the front end dives with a vengeance when I clamp hard on the fornt binders. I guess a little more compression damping is in order. Is an Ohlins shock the best bet for the rear?
dlaing Posted September 13, 2005 Posted September 13, 2005 The jury (in my head) is still out on whether or not Ohlins is the best. There is serious competition from the following, who all list our model bike. Wilbers HyperPro Hagon Penske Maxton may list our bike. Custom shocks that don't appear to be listed, but could work just fine are available from: Elka Works Performance BiTubo White Power and I am sure others...
P3GA Posted September 13, 2005 Posted September 13, 2005 How do you guys like to set up your suspension for fast road work? I've never adjusted anything on my '02 LeMans, but the front end dives with a vengeance when I clamp hard on the fornt binders. I guess a little more compression damping is in order. Is an Ohlins shock the best bet for the rear? 60133[/snapback] First part of last month I had the folks at Traxxion Dynamics set up my '02 Le Mans...best $$ I've spent on the bike. There's a riveting exchange of posts that I contributed to, do a search for Traxxion, just might present you with a few options for upgrading. Phil Atlanta GA '02 Le Mans
Alex-Corsa Posted September 13, 2005 Posted September 13, 2005 Is an Ohlins shock the best bet for the rear? Yep ,hands down,as far as settings go, check out these artikles found on SPORT RIDER - Suspension
quazi-moto Posted September 13, 2005 Author Posted September 13, 2005 ...hmmm, When they call for "stiff" on front C and R do they mean full stiff?
mdude Posted September 14, 2005 Posted September 14, 2005 I would be cautious about adjusting the fork and rear damper too hard. My bike was set like this when I bought it, probably because the former owner meant that HARD equals SPORTY, and it was dangerously nervous. A coin in the road made it twitch like crazy and sent it right off course, and I had to change pants regularly. I actually wondered for a while if something was seriously wrong with the frame. Then found out that I drove faster and more securely with a much softer setup. The feedback from the chassis also got clearer. Yes it dives, but I get used to it. My mountainbike dives even worse... What I also have found out is that the Sachs in the rear probably has a spring which is way too hard. My bike is perfect with a pillion (a trustful wife). Tracks like a train and points into turns with ease. And I am a grown up guy, not a dwarfed test driver. So the Sachs will have to go... If one wants to seriously better this bike; look to the springs. A subject which is thoroughly explored elsewhere on this forum.
BrianG Posted September 14, 2005 Posted September 14, 2005 The first thing that I noticed with this bike is that the front end is seriously undersprung for a 200 lb man in riding gear. The second thing I noticed is that the PO set the compression settings up in an attempt to compensate for this, and that made the ride harsh! A properly sprung motorcycle suspension needs very little low-speed compression damping. I too have had great past success with Traxxion Dynamics. I sent these Marz forks to them and they installed 1.10 kg fork springs, and their new valves. This changed them to "rebound adjustment" on both sides, with a fixed compression setting. The change in handling is beyond description. I also replaced the rear shock with a custom Penske unit developed by one of the denizens of this forum. I have loved previous Penske shocks I've had, and this one replaced a defective OEM unit, so it couldn't help but end up far better! I like to set my initial loaded sag to 30% of travel, front and back. If this leaves unloaded sag in the 10-15% range, the springs are right. For damping, I begin with compression backed off completely and rebound set at about 1/3 firm from off (both front and back). I'll diddle with the rebound until there's only just no second-cycle motion found under any road condition. That is, if you jump down on the forks or seat, the bike will settle and then rise to the top of rebound, and then settle to neutral with no onset of a second cycle of this motion. Usually this is perfect for most conditions. If I'm going out into the serious twisties, I'll dial in just a bit of compression damping. Just enough that you can feel the difference from zero. I agree with Max, that "A compliant suspension does the best job of keeping the rubber on the road." Plus, this cushy suspension setting is a comfortable one, to boot!
quazi-moto Posted September 16, 2005 Author Posted September 16, 2005 That's pretty much what I figured. I'd be better off with different fork springs and rear shock rather than toying around with the C/R settings. Maybe next season it'll be upgrade time!
strider Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 This article describes suspension set-up for racing, however it is also relevant for the road. SHOCKS.DOC
big J Posted September 18, 2005 Posted September 18, 2005 I much prefer it stiff at the front than having it hard at the rear. Well, no one else was going to lower the tone of the thread....... Maxton can supply to order, they have race experience with V11's.
quazi-moto Posted September 19, 2005 Author Posted September 19, 2005 Some folks like it stiff in front and soft in the rear if ya can believe that!
dlaing Posted September 19, 2005 Posted September 19, 2005 I much prefer it stiff at the front than having it hard at the rear. 60624[/snapback] Ah, now I understand why it rides more smoothly(for me atleast) with my wife on the rear.
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