V11 Lemans, Rosso Corsa, new member

[Guest n5385j]

Its a pleasure being in such good company. Here's my issue. As I accelarate to achieve the "sweet spot" I feel a roughness in the engine @ 4,000 rpm. Only at that rpm do I feel it. I've been riding highway's mostly and put on 5,700 miles on it since I bought it a year ago. I know the bikes personality by know and this is new. Any clue as to what this is all about?

 

Edited post: Looked under common problems for my bike and found the answer. No solution other than keep on riding.

[jrt]

Welcome.

 

And you're right- you can't eliminate it, but you can 1) avoid it by staying ~5000+ rpm, 2) minimize it by changing out the exhaust/crossover/add PCIII or a host of other add-ons or 3) make sure your throttle bodies are well synched as a strategy to minimize it.

I'm not confrontational, so I generally just avoid that rpm range.

 

Enjoy!

And don't believe anything Belfast says, because he's been off his meds for like a week now.

Jason

[Baldini]

If possible have someone who knows what they're doing look at the FI set up - TPS & synchronisation. If it's well set up it gets rid of the roughness but there's always a dip there. Like Jason says the way to mostly lose it is PC111/xover/cans/filter.

 

KB

[badmotogoozer]

And don't believe anything Belfast says, because he's been off his meds for like a week now. 

 

60719[/snapback]

 

Only a week???

 

Rj

[quazi-moto]

There's been a lot of talk on this forum about the lean area in the mid-range on these bikes. I've got an '02 LeMans with some mods (FBF intake, X-over, Staintunes and PCIII) and I also replaced the TPS with the Harley version. There's a custom map in the PCIII and I also had a dealer "tweak" the map, but they didn't put it on a dyno. I still have that lean area between 3500-4000RPM (approx.) and my next move will either be a dyno session or a change to the My15M ECU. Some have suggested just keeping the revs higher, but I don't find that to be a very good or convenient solution. I don't care for the surging and coughing at cruising speeds and I want to get this sorted out properly. The bike used to run worse actually! It would die at lights and sputter & spit at low RPM. The PCIII, TPS sensor and careful balancing of the TB's helped cure some of these ills, but its still not ideal fuel delivery IMHO.

[belfastguzzi]

There's been a lot of talk on this forum about the lean area in the mid-range on these bikes. I've got an '02 LeMans with some mods (FBF intake, X-over, Staintunes and PCIII) and I also replaced the TPS with the Harley version. There's a custom map in the PCIII and I also had a dealer "tweak" the map, but they didn't put it on a dyno. I still have that lean area between 3500-4000RPM (approx.) and my next move will either be a dyno session or a change to the My15M ECU. Some have suggested just keeping the revs higher, but I don't find that to be a very good or convenient solution. I don't care for the surging and coughing at cruising speeds and I want to get this sorted out properly. The bike used to run worse actually! It would die at lights and sputter & spit at low RPM. The PCIII, TPS sensor and careful balancing of the TB's helped cure some of these ills, but its still not ideal fuel delivery IMHO.

60758[/snapback]

 

It used to run worse – did you get the bike new/stock condition, or did you get it with some mods already done? My 02 had a dip at close to 5,000 rpm, but not surging and coughing and worse. I then ran without airbox lid but kept paper filter. Worked ok. Now have K&N, x-over and Guzzi's Ti cans & 'race' ECU. It works well. Maybe PC would improve it more, but as I say, it goes fine, including at low revs. Maybe you've got too much uncoordinated 'tweaking', but also, what about the top-end?

It seems to be the Americans who mostly find the bike spluttering and dieing when it's stopped at lights. It's often attributed to the top-end settings being too tight and the problem eases / goes away when tappets are opened to Euro settings or wider.

[belfastguzzi]

don't believe anything Belfast says...

60719[/snapback]

 

...there's a guy on here called Jason, a man of astounding intellectual capacity and rugged good looks.

[Ouiji Veck]

There's been a lot of talk on this forum about the lean area in the mid-range on these bikes. I've got an '02 LeMans with some mods (FBF intake, X-over, Staintunes and PCIII) and I also replaced the TPS with the Harley version. There's a custom map in the PCIII and I also had a dealer "tweak" the map, but they didn't put it on a dyno. I still have that lean area between 3500-4000RPM (approx.) and my next move will either be a dyno session or a change to the My15M ECU. Some have suggested just keeping the revs higher, but I don't find that to be a very good or convenient solution. I don't care for the surging and coughing at cruising speeds and I want to get this sorted out properly. The bike used to run worse actually! It would die at lights and sputter & spit at low RPM. The PCIII, TPS sensor and careful balancing of the TB's helped cure some of these ills, but its still not ideal fuel delivery IMHO.

60758[/snapback]

 

Whiile waiting to get my carbs synched I got so agrivated with the 3100 & 3800

RPM hiccup I finally just reached down and adj. them on the fly.

I went counter clock wise 1/16 or less at a time. After about 6 I went back to zero and started going clock wise...after five it was improved...after 7 it was perfect.

I did my valves sinces and figured I'd have to get 'em synched now for shure..

WRONG...It's running absolutely wonderful everywhere through the RPMs...

Plugs are tan ..I'm happy. ..no stumbling or hiccups. .

Mistrals Stucci and PCIII... I figure theres a reason it's a big white knob instead of a little tiny screw...Then again I'm an old farmer ...Duct tape and vise grips.

Thats why I bought a Guzzi.

[Guest n5385j]

It used to run worse – did you get the bike new/stock condition, or did you get it with some mods already done? My 02 had a dip at close to 5,000 rpm, but not surging and coughing and worse. I then ran without airbox lid but kept paper filter. Worked ok. Now have K&N, x-over and Guzzi's Ti cans & 'race' ECU. It works well. Maybe PC would improve it more, but as I say, it goes fine, including at low revs. Maybe you've got too much uncoordinated 'tweaking', but also, what about the top-end?

It seems to be the Americans who mostly find the bike spluttering and dieing when it's stopped at lights. It's often attributed to the top-end settings being too tight and the problem eases / goes away when tappets are opened to Euro settings or wider.

60760[/snapback]

 

 

I got the bike new and its all stock. No mods have been performed, just routine service. I did notice the muffler clamp on the X-over is loose and the x-over wiggles on that end. I'll tighten that up. Also, the valve lash setting can be adjusted because I am getting the pop on hot days @ low rpm. Maybe Ferracci can do a dyno at my 7K check-up. All is good.

Thanks to all for your advice. I'll be watching and posting. Picture to follow.

[quazi-moto]

I bought my bike new in April of '02 and it ran kinda funky even when it was completely stock. I had a dealer do the lash adjustment when I had it serviced. In hindsight I guess I should have requested the Euro settings, but the top end is more "clackety" now than it was before. Without the PCIII it would probably run like a lame dog with the exhaust and intake mods that I've done. After the dealer "tweaked" my map I still had to override the mid-range settings and richen it up with the faceplate buttons. The dealer cited a whole plethora of possible causes ranging from battery/charging system, fuel pressure, TPS sensor, air temp sensor, etc. The whole thing is that the bike runs pretty darn good before its fully warmed up leading me to believe that once the temp sensor on the head reports back to the ECU that things are up to operating temp then good ole Mr. ECU leans out the map. Only too much! I replaced the TPS with the Harley style unit which helped the low end quite a bit, but it hasn't cleared up the mid-range surging that's driving me nuts. I like everything else about this bike (except the front tire) and I hope to get it sorted out soon. I think I'll try the dyno session before I give up on the PCIII. I wonder how it would run with the Titanio ECU and PCIII?

[Ouiji Veck]

I bought my bike new in April of '02 and it ran kinda funky even when it was completely stock. I had a dealer do the lash adjustment when I had it serviced. In hindsight I guess I should have requested the Euro settings, but the top end is more "clackety" now than it was before. Without the PCIII it would probably run like a lame dog with the exhaust and intake mods that I've done. After the dealer "tweaked" my map I still had to override the mid-range settings and richen it up with the faceplate buttons. The dealer cited a whole plethora of possible causes ranging from battery/charging system, fuel pressure, TPS sensor, air temp sensor, etc. The whole thing is that the bike runs pretty darn good before its fully warmed up leading me to believe that once the temp sensor on the head reports back to the ECU that things are up to operating temp then good ole Mr. ECU leans out the map. Only too much! I replaced the TPS with the Harley style unit which helped the low end quite a bit, but it hasn't cleared up the mid-range surging that's driving me nuts. I like everything else about this bike (except the front tire) and I hope to get it sorted out soon. I think I'll try the dyno session before I give up on the PCIII. I wonder how it would run with the Titanio ECU and PCIII?

60839[/snapback]

 

Dyno dyno dyno...

Thats what you do to a Hyabusa to get .001 sec. off your time @ the drag strip.

I'm tellin' ya..I balanced my TBs by ear and it's purrrrfect. (previously sucked)

Not a stumble, hiccup or cough...I just dialed 'em out. Isn't simplicity and

reliability what Guzzi is about?

What is this chronic problem about? ( stumble, hiccup or cough.)

So much time and $$ for dealers and dynos and people are happy it's not "as bad" as it was. Maybe I just got lucky or maybe all these dealers and dyno techs

just don't know or like Guzzis but love taking your money. Has anyone got one of

these things back from the "techies" purrrrfect?

Sorry to rant but to hear Guzzi and Dyno in the same sentance is an abomination to my ears...and I hear it so much here. I either just got lucky or this problem is

deing over analyized.

All tounge in cheek....feel free to rant back.

[Guest ratchethack]

Ouiji, I'm with you on this one. Chasing dragstrip performance ain't on my list of concerns with the Guzzi either. I figure if ultimate performance is the goal, the woods are full of cheap 10-year old Jappers that are far better platforms. Now getting the Guzzi to run smoothly and tractably IS a goal, but you don't need a dyno for this. For me, over-analysis paralysis over raw performance is one well-travelled road that I'm not interested in riding. The beauty of the V11 is that you can do it all on your own without too much fuss with very satisfactory results for all practical purposes. No one but me has as much as touched my bike to tune it, and I run an "off the shelf" PC III map. For me, it's a genuine pleasure to tune these bikes entirely independent of anyone else, and I consider mine in a high state of tune as long as she runs smooth, gets decent mileage, and never hesitates to pull like a Kenworth on command. But then, I'm a bit of a Guzzi Geezer, that's just me, and as always, YMMV.

[jrt]

Ouiji, you must be one of us that used to balance the carbs on older Guzzis by putting your hands over the exhaust and blipping the throttle. Works like a charm.

[Ouiji Veck]

" runs smooth, gets decent mileage, and never hesitates to pull like a Kenworth on command. "

 

ZZzackly

Specially the "pull like a Kenworth part".

Thats what puts that big grin on my face.

I wuz expectin' to catch hell for my tirade.

 

Yea jrt....hands over the exhaust or my favorite...

"pull one plug wire and it should stall after 2 or three revolutions."

I love that kind of stuff.

One year when ice racing (flat track on a frozen lake) I replaced a broken

brake stay on my CR 250 wirh a coat hanger. A Dudley DoRight type from

my own pit started slandering my mechanical accumen. I then proceded to

win my class that day....yet another trophy for Team Duct Tape..

( not that brakes are useful ice racing)

note: No it's not slippery...

Infact there's 10 times more traction than on any other bike.

Exit every corner in a wheelie and throw a rooster tail of ice 12 feet into the

air thru every turn.....500 5/16 hex heads diggin' in..man what fun...

A lttle like juggling chain sawz though...got the scars to prove it.

[big J]

Ouiji, I'm with you on this one.  Chasing dragstrip performance ain't on my list of concerns with the Guzzi either.  I figure if ultimate performance is the goal, the woods are full of cheap 10-year old Jappers that are far better platforms.  Now getting the  Guzzi to run smoothly and tractably IS a goal, but you don't need a dyno for this.  For me, over-analysis paralysis over raw performance is one well-travelled road that I'm not interested in riding.  The beauty of the V11 is that you can do it all on your own without too much fuss with very satisfactory results for all practical purposes.  No one but me has as much as touched my bike to tune it, and I run an "off the shelf" PC III map.  For me, it's a genuine pleasure to tune these bikes entirely independent of anyone else, and I consider mine in a high state of tune as long as she runs smooth, gets decent mileage, and never hesitates to pull like a Kenworth on command.  But then, I'm a bit of a Guzzi Geezer, that's just me, and as always, YMMV.

60865[/snapback]

Ultimate performance isn't the issue. You can adjust and set the fi EXACTLY to make the engine perform best. Air and fuel ratio set precisely with the bike under load as it would be on the road.

And yes, you do need a dyno to do this,why buy a computer controlled bike, then guess if it's set up right?

You may or may not get close thru guesswork- a dyno tells you down to one decimal point where your stoichiometric ratio is at any given rpm.

I like tinkering myself, but I know that it will always run better if it's been dyno'd.