aftermarket shift spring question

[bigbikerrick]

Im getting ready to check the shift spring and boss diameter on my 02 V11 naked Ive read all of the posts and seen all the excellent pics posted here . (thank God for this forum,or we would be screwed) my question is is the aftermarket spring from "bonnie" at cannon racecraft better than the MG replacement? has there been any failures of the aftermarket spring? It seems possible that not only the 16mm boss ,but also poor spring tempering by MG may be a factor. one last question..... after the cover is removed ,with the bike in neutral I assume? Is there anything special to watch out for when dissassembling the shift mechanism to get to the spring? Thanks Folks, Im trying to build up my courage, beforew I start wrenching!

[P3GA]

Im getting ready to check the shift spring and boss diameter on my 02 V11 naked .... my question is is the aftermarket spring from "bonnie" at cannon racecraft better than the MG replacement? has there been any failures of the aftermarket spring? ..............................one last question..... after the cover is removed ,with the bike in neutral I assume? Is there anything special to watch out for when dissassembling the shift mechanism to get to the spring?

61003[/snapback]

 

 

I believe the concensus was that Racecraft spring was of a higher grade of material & that the radius of the bends were less severe than of the OEM piece. In any case, the springs are readily available & inexpensive, which cannot always be said of the Guzzi part. Mine has been in for at least as many miles as the original, so (to quote Bill Murray) "I've got that going for me".

 

As far as the actual work, put the bike in neutral & try not to move the shift dogs when you remove & replace the cover. Also, the large gears should have some sort of an index mark on each gear wheel to identify when they are in neutral. Mine have a detent on each, so that when properly lined up & reassembled, the box is in neutral. (Please don't ask how I discovered that)

 

Lastly, I found that a thin coat of the Yamaha gasket sealer does a fine job between the cover & the block, and is removable if you need to remove the cover, see comment above regarding lining up the detents on the gear wheels.....

 

Hope this helps,

 

Phil

Atlanta GA

'02 Le Mans

[Mal]

yep, its an easy job, did it on a friends V11, as this was stuck in gear with a broken spring I did not have the luxury of being able to put it into neutral but it didn't seem to cause any problems (I think it was in 3rd).

 

I marked the 2 gears with something (tippex - the white correcting fluid is good) in relation to each other (where they meshed) and in relation to where they mounted on their shafts (probably not necessary).

 

you may also need circlip pliers as the 2 gears are held on with small circlips.

 

other than that (and instant gasket) its quite easy and you just need to be logical about it all (and remember which allen bolts go where - some are different lengths), cleaning off the old gasket goo was the only pain, a bit of patience needed there.

 

If you have a digital camera a good quality picture(s) will help with reassembly, or maybe a nice watercolour if you are more arty.

 

Of course another option is leaving it there if it hasn't broken but that one is up to you.

 

good luck

 

Mal

[Baldini]

....put the bike in neutral & try not to move the shift dogs ...

 

If you don't manage this, they should be positioned equidistant in their spaces on the shafts to get neutral when replacing cover. The selector wheels on the shift mechanism should also be aligned for neutral some have marking, mine didn't.

 

One of the lower socket cap bolts needs a cut down allen key to access.

 

The cover maybe reluctant to pull off. I used a draw hammer & a bit of wood.

 

Disconnect battery before removing starter wires...

 

KB

[Guest Britcheflee]

Hi,

Can you show me the link to the information about changing the spring? Also, I have a habit of lifting the gear to check I am in 6th - is this going to put extra stress on the orignal spring?

 

Lee

[bigbikerrick]

I believe the concensus was that Racecraft spring was of a higher grade of material & that the radius of the bends were less severe than of the OEM piece. In any case, the springs are readily available & inexpensive, which cannot always be said of the Guzzi part. Mine has been in for at least as many miles as the original, so (to quote Bill Murray) "I've got that going for me".

 

As far as the actual work, put the bike in neutral & try not to move the shift dogs when you remove & replace the cover. Also, the large gears should have some sort of an index mark on each gear wheel to identify when they are in neutral.  Mine have a detent on each, so that when properly lined up & reassembled, the box is in neutral. (Please don't ask how I discovered that)

 

Lastly, I found that a thin coat  of the Yamaha gasket sealer does a fine job between the cover & the block, and is removable if you need to remove the cover, see comment above regarding lining up the detents on the gear wheels.....

 

Hope this helps,

 

Phil

Atlanta GA

'02 Le Mans

61010[/snapback]

Thanks for the reply and tips , Phil . everyday I learn a little bit more, Im feeling confident that I can do this job,thanks to all the fine folks on this forum.

[jrt]

I have a habit of lifting the gear to check I am in 6th - is this going to put extra stress on the orignal spring?

 

Lee

61039[/snapback]

 

I don't think so- I do this all the time also. Obsessive compulsive tendencies.

[bigbikerrick]

yep, its an easy job, did it on a friends V11, as this was stuck in gear with a broken spring I did not have the luxury of being able to put it into neutral but it didn't seem to cause any problems (I think it was in 3rd).

 

I marked the 2 gears with something (tippex - the white correcting fluid is good) in relation to each other (where they meshed) and in relation to where they mounted on their shafts (probably not necessary).

 

you may also need circlip pliers as the 2 gears are held on with small circlips.

 

other than that (and instant gasket) its quite easy and you just need to be logical about it all (and remember which allen bolts go where - some are different lengths), cleaning off the old gasket goo was the only pain, a bit of patience needed there.

 

If you have a digital camera a good quality picture(s) will help with reassembly, or maybe a nice watercolour if you are more arty.

 

Of course another option is leaving it there if it hasn't broken but that one is up to you.

 

good luck

 

Mal 

61015[/snapback]

Thanks, Mal, I appreciate the tips, I dont really want to wait till it breaks, Im anxious to measure the boss and see if its too big,and file it down if needed. distances between towns are usually over 50 miles here in rural Arizona, and a breakdown in the middle of nowhere in 100+ degree heat is no fun!

[bigbikerrick]

If you don't manage this, they should be positioned equidistant in their spaces on the shafts to get neutral when replacing cover. The selector wheels on the shift mechanism should also be aligned for neutral some have marking, mine didn't.

 

One of the lower socket cap bolts needs a cut down allen key to access.

 

The cover maybe reluctant to pull off. I used a draw hammer & a bit of wood.

 

Disconnect battery before removing starter wires...

 

KB

61036[/snapback]

Thanks, Good tip, I usually forget to disconnect the battery! The ensuing sparks are an expensive reminder though Im not sure what a draw hammer is? is it a slide hammer? are there any safe places to pry on the cover? Thanks again!

[belfastguzzi]

Thanks, Good tip, I usually forget to disconnect the battery! The ensuing sparks are  an expensive reminder though   Im not sure what a draw  hammer is? is it a slide hammer? are there any safe places to pry on the cover? Thanks again!

61063[/snapback]

A claw hammer?

 

Any old thing to shock it / pry it off.

[Baldini]

...not sure what a draw  hammer is? is it a slide hammer? are there any safe places to pry on the cover?

 

....yes, a slidehammer. Can't remember where I located it, & can't see now cos starter's in way but as I remember there was some sort of lug that served. I used a piece of wood to wedge the claws of the slidehammer & to absorb the shock....it should be obvious once you've removed the starter. Others probably did different ways.

 

It isn't a difficult job, but it is a bit fiddly. Make sure you match up the selector wheels & sliding dogs in neutral.

 

KB

[windchill]

Where can I get hold of a Racecraft spring quickly?