Oil filter removal

[Steve G.]

Do not attempt to get the filter out/off from the spin out access cover, unless you have the proper flute filter wrench/socket. The threads for this cover are very fragile, and if damaged, you will have much trouble spinning the cover back on. Take the pan off, take the factory one off with a scewdriver or pump pliers.

Ciao, Steve G.

[jrt]

I nominate ratchethack to come up with a similar V11 site, with photos, on all of the maintenance, mods, etc that can be done by the common V11 owner.

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I'll second any suggestion that doesn't involve me. Is there a 'lazy' emoticon?

 

There's a couple places that data is scattered here and there. RacerX (Todd) runs www.guzzitech.com, which has as a LOT of cool info.

 

A compendium of sites (I know- it's scattered) is at:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Moto-Guzzi-mot...maintenance.htm

[callison]

I bought all the POS wrenches for the different filters I've tried...  don't waste your money!!

 

Pull off the pan - the gasket is tough and can be reused several times if you are moderately careful.

 

Punch screwdriver through filter and spin off.

 

Voila.

 

Rj

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What he said. I've had the pan gasket last four years before getting to brittle to re-use.

MG Cycle has some nice tools and one of them is ideal for the pan.

[dmoon64]

All done now. Ended up pulling the sump. Only problem was oil drain bolt fell through the gap in screen and went into the hot oil. Had a couple of beers said screw it and got it out this am. Raining now so I may go for ride this afternoon. Screen was clean and everything fit back like it was made to with no spare parts

 

Maybe a valve adjustment in the future....?

 

 

Thanks for the advice.

[Guest ratchethack]

Congrat's, dmoon64. Ever have a seemingly backward sense of "disappointment" when nothing really "interesting" shows up on the screen?

 

Considering this thread and thinking ahead, I just had a flash of what might be something resembling Neanderthal brilliance. In the case of not having the correct filter socket on hand, as a "shortcut" to avoid what we all know is the RIGHT THING to do , how about the idea of punching into the old filter with an open needle-nose pliers with both jaws, so that the protruding handles can be used to unscrew it??

 

Anybody tried this?

[Guest Nogbad]

This thread made me think.

 

It occurs to me that it isn't getting a new easy spinning filter ON through the pan hole that is the difficulty, it's getting the old stuck one out.

 

What is needed is a screwdriver than can be inserted axially to pierce and twist off the old can. So, I have come up with the tool illustrated below. It should be used in conjunction with a hammer, followed by a socket and bar.

 

Don't use it for putting the new one in.

 

[Guest ratchethack]

Absolutely - That's the ticket!

[Guest Nogbad]

So, shall I refine the CAD model and get some made?

 

Who would be interested in buying my "Guzzi Keyhole Surgeon Filter Vandalizer"?

 

I think I will add a protective sleeve to centralise it in the "keyhole" so you get a straight pierce.

[Guest ratchethack]

Who would be interested in buying my "Guzzi Keyhole Surgeon Filter Vandalizer"?

errr......Well, now that you've developed the idea into 3D Nog, I can just make one up in my shop - But thanks for taking the idea from Neanderthal technology all the way up to the Iron Age. OTOH, your drawing has a distinct Medeival look, so maybe it's actually fairly high-tech...

[mikie]

how about the idea of punching into the old filter with an open needle-nose pliers with both jaws, so that the protruding handles can be used to unscrew it??

 

Anybody tried this? 

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That's how I got my original filter out prior to changing over to Amsoil filters and having the correct filter wrench for those. Whatever works, eh?

[orangeokie]

Since it has yet to be mentioned, I take it this won't work?

[Molly]

On 9/23/2005 at 5:35 PM, mikethebike said:

I’ve carried out several oil changes and I’ve never yet managed to remove the filter through the access hole. I’ve tried a variety of home-made tools and even bought a special tool just the right size for the filter but no luck. I always tighten the filter to the specified torque but once it’s been there for a while it seems to get a great grip and won’t budge. Each time I’ve had to remove the sump and use a strap wrench like you’d use on your car. But there has always been enough crud or sludge in the sump to warrant a good clean. There is also a mesh filter in there that needs a periodic clean. With care the old gasket comes away cleanly and can be re-used - the current gasket has survived the last three changes. You also have to disconnect an oil feed pipe at the rear of the sump - this gets tightened up again nice and tight by feel but not too tight! The job appears a bit daunting for the first timer but it's probably quicker to drop the sump than buggering about trying to get the filter out. Anyway I always feel better afterwards knowing that the innards of the sump are nice and clean. Make sure to tighten the sump screws progressively and evenly and apply the correct torque. Good luck.

This answers the question I came to ask. 'Can I remove the sump with the filter still in situ?' My drain plug has been leaking and I suspected the threads has stripped. Sure enough, upon removing the drain plug some threads came with it. So, onto the bench it'll need to be whilst I figure it out. Only thing is, with all 14 bolts out the sump still won't budge. Hence me wondering if the filter needed to come out first. 

[pete roper]

No, it doesn’t. Chances are some previous gnumb-gnuts removed it and then glued it back on with some form of gorilla snot.

Make sure ALL the peripheral bolts are out and then use something to apply gradually increasing force on something, even if it is a screwdriver through the already buggered hole. Don’t try and shock it and don’t try to chisel it. If it’s really obstinate? Get the blowtorch out and heat around the flange of the sump, try and do it evenly, eventually it’ll part company but I don’t envy you the task of cleaning the mess of gorilla snot and gasket off the mating surfaces. When done though reinstall the new gasket either dry or a very thin smear of grease and you won’t have the issue again.

For the stripped thread? I’d recommend a time-sert.

[gstallons]

Time-Sert is the best thread repair brand on the planet. If you are afraid to try it , take it to a good shop or machine shop and get it fixed.

[Molly]

Thanks again chaps. Got the sump off. Oil filter removed (must've been fitted by an ape). Coincidentally, my service kit from Gutsibits arrived this morning. 

My son is karting this weekend so I'll park it there for now so we can get his stuff ready.  

Again, thanks for your help. Appreciated.