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Peg lowering kits for sale?


Guest rodzilla

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Guest rodzilla

I am interested in buying a peg lowering kit for my V11 Ballabio. Evoluzione does not sell them anymore, and I have not got a reply from the Fonz on if he still makes the Buell conversion kit.

 

If anyone knows the dimensions of the parts I need to make the Evoluzione kit, that would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to attempt to make the Buell kit as I would rather have them machined.

 

Thanks again,

Rod :)

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I am interested in buying a peg lowering kit for my V11 Ballabio. Evoluzione does not sell them anymore, and I have not got a reply from the Fonz on if he still makes the Buell conversion kit.

 

If anyone knows the dimensions of the parts I need to make the Evoluzione kit, that would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to attempt to make the Buell kit as I would rather have them machined.

 

Thanks again,

Rod  :)

61305[/snapback]

 

If your going to have custom machining done I would just take the stock pegs to the machinist so he has a base to work from and tell him exactly what you want with the new ones to be made.

 

Mike

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Somewhere...somewhere at home is the original sheet of instructions from Evoluzione. I'll see if it has a bill of parts on it. Otherwise- it was a bolt that was identical to the one that already fits the peg to the frame, a spacer, and two plastic caps to plug the holes.

Pull out one of the button head bolts to get an idea of the thread size and pitch (~14? X 1.5) and thread depth.

aw heck, I'll write myself a note. No promises, though.

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Guest rodzilla
Somewhere...somewhere at home is the original sheet of instructions from Evoluzione.  I'll see if it has a bill of parts on it.  Otherwise- it was a bolt that was identical to the one that already fits the peg to the frame, a spacer, and two plastic caps to plug the holes.

Pull out one of the button head bolts to get an idea of the thread size and pitch (~14? X 1.5) and thread depth. 

aw heck, I'll write myself a note.  No promises, though.

61350[/snapback]

 

 

Thanks jrt. Any information that you can give me will be helpful.

 

Rod

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dammit. I wrote up a great description- including a quantum mechanical analysis of footpeg installation vs. inspection and then accidentally quit my webbrowser before hitting submit. Damn, I'm an idiot sometimes.

 

OK- let's see if I can do this again.

I couldnt find the instruction sheet, but I did find the bag that the peg lowering kit came in. From this and the two attached pictures you can see all the parts you need and some parts you won't need.

The contents of the kit are:

1) 10X40 bolt (I was way off on my estimation of their size in my previous post)

1) 10X60 bolt

1) bushing

1) shim

2) plastic (nylon) plugs

 

Refer to the first picture (~200K in size) for the parts I took out.

p9260019.jpg

I numbered the bolts

#1 you will remove two of these buttonhead 10X40 bolts- one from each side- and remount the pegs in their place

#2 the 'old' brake lever bolt. Note the shoulder on this bolt- you need a bushing that takes the place of the shoulder

#3 not sure.. :huh2: I think this is to bolt the brake lever to the actuating rod. Use you old one since it is a chamfered hole

#4 a 10X40 bolt- these bolt the peg hangers to the porkchops. Note the flat head (it has an allen drive) yes, there are two of them I happen to have two, and I'm not sure why. The gray stuff is antisieze that I haven't cleaned off yet.

 

General instructions:

remove both pegs from the bike- set the 10X40 bolts aside

remove the brake pedal

remove the two 10X40 button head bolts that attach the porkchop to the lunchbox (the tube that runs crossways the frame- so called because early spine frames had this tube open and someone said it was the perfect place for a sandwich). You won't use these buttonhead bolts again.

 

reattach the left (shifter) side peg down and back in the hole you just opened up. Use the 10X40 (#4) bolt that originally held it in.

using the 10X60 bolt, attach the right (brake) side peg hanger. The bolt goes through the peg hanger, through the bushing- the brake rides on the bushing- through the shim and into the porkchop. The shim takes the place of the shoulder on bolt #2 in the first picture. I don't know the outer diameter of the shim, but the inner diameter is 10 mm. You can measure the bolt when you take it out. The bushing needs to be just a smidge wider than the brake pedal, so that the brake pedal actuates easily and doesn't bind on the peg hanger when you torque it up. Use grease on the moving parts, of course.

- while you have the pedal and actuating arm off, take a tip from Carl Allison and put some grease up into the rubber accordian on the brake master cylinder. Helps to keep it from rusting-

Put the plastic plugs in the old peg mounting holes if you wish- I left mine open after the plugs fell out :lol:

FWIW, the right (brake) peg does sit out a little further since the brake is between it and the frame. It doesn't bother me at all.

My only complaint was that after doing this, it is harder to shift because the pegs are further back. I had to take my foot off the peg to reach up and shift. So, I made a new shift lever. I didn't find a picture of it, but I DID find a picture of when I was making a new brake lever. See picture #2 I've attached (75K in size).

brakelever.jpg

part #1 is the shim, part #2 is the peg hanger and the new 10X60 bolt you need to acquire, part #3 is the bushing. I think this picture explains better than my description above.

 

The new parts you need are the 10X60 bolt, the shim, and the bushing. You can reuse the old bolt for the left (shifter) side. The plugs are nice, I guess, but not necessary except for looks.

If you want larger (800K or so) pictures, just email me and I'll send them off list.

 

If you do this mod, you ought to send a thank you note to Ken at Evoluzione- he's the one that did all the research and work to put it together. Or just buy something from him. He's a nice guy.

 

hope that helps

J

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Guest rodzilla

Thanks jrt and wick. I'm going to call mph, and if they don't have the kit anymore, then I will be headed into town in search of bolts and such!

 

Rod

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