al_roethlisberger Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 ...yep, had my "pork-chops", valve-covers, and some misc bits powder coated with a nice deep candy red that looks great IMHO. But it is correct that most of these parts cannot be anodized due to the poor casting material. The result will be black from impurities. That being said, you may also have some minor bubbles in any powder coated parts from off-gassing of the parts. It is just inevitable. I had my valve-covers coated twice, and we got it better the second time. But there were still some bubbles here and there. Oh, and yes, you can easily get the side plates off without taking the whole bike apart. You simply need to support everything, engine, swingarm, etc... It takes some doing, but it's not impossible =) OH and OH... one last thing. Powder coat is THICK. So you'll either have to mask(not coat) areas that will press fit, or have tight tolerances, or grind the powder coat off afterwards. It's easy enough to do, but even easier to avoid up front with a little planning al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thmpr Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I purchased a used set of porkchops from an eBay seller parting out a V11s. Once you have the extra set, you can replace one side at a time without any real grand supports needed. I just used a hydraulic floor jack under the engine. Getting the four frame mounting bolts off each porkchop does require some gymnastics. Tool access is limited. Total job took only 4.5 hours and discovered a major factory assembly problem that has haunted my handling for 4 years. Much better now. Currently, I have a faded pair of porkchops sitting on my bench. Will wait before selling to see how good these replacements hold up. If they go south, I'll have the spares powder coated and switch out one side at a time, again. thmpr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzirider Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Lets see some pics of your Magni! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thmpr Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Lets see some pics of your Magni! 62730[/snapback] OK - let's try out this attachment thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzirider Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Very nice- a real classic look. Nicer looking than the fully faired Australia. Thanks for the pics. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 My chops got a couple scratches when my son knocked it over in the garage. I'm waiting for him to turn 40 so I can hear the whole story on that. Guys told me to use finger nail polish as it'savailable in so many shades . No luck. Best match: Testors enamel model paint in Italian Red. Should be durable with a quality clear coat. Is there "Testors" model paint in Norway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 discovered a major factory assembly problem that has haunted my handling for 4 years. OK, I'll bite. Care to elaborate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thmpr Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 OK, I'll bite. Care to elaborate? 62766[/snapback] I was never comfortable with my 2000 V11s wobbly, hunting, wandering handling. Tried many fixes - tire selection, disassembling/reassembling front end, aligning, etc with some success. When disassembling the porkchops, we watched the frame actually shrink in width at the porkchops and found that the left adjustable swingarm stud was not seated properly into the swingarm bearing. The stud had a slight ridge near the end that would not let it slide into the swingarm bearing. When the bike was assembled at the factory, they cranked that left stud to match the thread depth of the right stud no matter what, thus stressing the frame. We sanded the stud to remove the ridge and made sure the stud slid comfortably into the bearing, lubed everything up and reassembled the bike with no bending of the frame. Bike now tracks straight and true. Rear wheel must have been slightly offset to the right causing the bike to crab down the road. thmpr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Thanks, thmpr. This might be a first. If this crime was in fact committed at the factory, it'd probably rank up there with some of the most egregious. Since the factory hasn't historically been known to set the stub axles at equal lengths, and generally seems to get the alignment within spec (3 mm total side-to-side), I'd be willing to give them the benefit of any doubt. I'd much prefer to think that this was done by the dealer or a PO. Good thing you made the discovery. FWIW, one option for achieving greater accuracy in alignment might be of interest: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4778&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdude Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 this thread is getting interesting. the wandering, wobbling and hunting is all there on my bike too. its nervous, even though i tamed it a bit by loosen up on the damping. ridges and potholes, especially in the beginning of a curve, knocks it off line. its unstable at turn-in. and it runs wiiiide if i dont use brute force to keep it in line. brute force means hangout-style, heavy engine braking at turn-ins and excessive countersteering. and i am a relaxed driver, no racer. is it supposed to be this way?? (My wifes ultrashort Laverda 668 is a beacon of stability and easy handling in comparison.) i thought this was one of the exciting "special features" of the bike, but after 2000 kms on it i dont know. something might be wrong. tyres are quite new BT 020s, the bike has only run 9000 kms (4000 miles?). i am planning ohlins-upgrades on suspension, maybe 5,5" rim in the back to get the right tyre profile etc... but first: those bleeched pork chops might be hiding someting from me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike wilson Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 this thread is getting interesting. the wandering, wobbling and hunting is all there on my bike too. its nervous, even though i tamed it a bit by loosen up on the damping. ridges and potholes, especially in the beginning of a curve, knocks it off line. its unstable at turn-in. and it runs wiiiide if i dont use brute force to keep it in line. brute force means hangout-style, heavy engine braking at turn-ins and excessive countersteering. and i am a relaxed driver, no racer. is it supposed to be this way?? 62878[/snapback] No, it's not. My V65 behaves almost identically, yet my V50 does not - it is wonderful to ride. Even though it has "spaghetti" forks. Mine turns in at low speeds but runs wide at anything over trotting speed. Same as yours? mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdude Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 No, it's not. My V65 behaves almost identically, yet my V50 does not - it is wonderful to ride. Even though it has "spaghetti" forks. Mine turns in at low speeds but runs wide at anything over trotting speed. Same as yours? mike 62890[/snapback] difficult to say, but its better the more aggressive I drive. It dont much care for cruising and long sweepers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeokie Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 My red pork chops (frame pieces) are seriously sunbleeched. I have seen this on a couple of other green/red V11s, while newer bikes seems to have a tougher type of paint. What have other guys done with this? Can I restore the pieces with some kind of rubbing compound (tried some light paint cleaner, but that didn't do it), without dismantling? . . . 62024[/snapback] clicky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thmpr Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 this thread is getting interesting. the wandering, wobbling and hunting is all there on my bike too. tyres are quite new BT 020s, the bike has only run 9000 kms (4000 miles?). i am planning ohlins-upgrades on suspension, 62878[/snapback] Have you tried sorting the front end? I had a huge amount of success just by rechecking the steering head bearings, then loosening all fork tube and axle bolts, shaking and aligning everthing up, front wheel between the leg twisting action, verifying the triple trees stack proper (mine were not), bouncing the suspension while tightening only one bolt between bounces. Everything sitting nice and comfortable. Play with the compression and rebound dampening. This made the handling much more reassured. Switched from the stock Dragons to Dunlop 208's - much better but tire life was bad. Now running Metzler Roadtec Z6 - quite pleased. I always thought the stock rear suspension was quite nice, but did the Ohlins rear shock when got a great deal on one. Personally, I liked the stock shock better and switched back. Save your money there. thmpr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SDGuzzi Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 I'm suffering from the same problem, a faded pork chop on the right side and a perfectly nice red one on the left side. My question is, what will happen if the one on the right side is completely removed? Will hundreds of needle bearings go flying around my garage? Will the bike sink to the floor like a camel? Will the earth stop rotating on its axis? Or something worse???? Inquiring minds want to know. Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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