Tommaselli clip-on installation '02 LeMans

[Guest Buck]

Some time ago in another post I said I was going to install a set of clip-ons on my '02 LeMans, and I would post the results when I finished. Here goes:

 

I must start off by telling you that this installation was much more difficult than I expected. I have a habit of setting myself up for disappointment in that respect because I was an Auto Tech for 20 years. Because of that I always think it will take me no time at all. When it winds up taking twice as long as I expect I get frustrated, which takes away from the joy of the experience

 

Anyway, here is a picture of the results:

 

I ordered the Tommaselli Clip-Ons from Agostini. They arrived within a week, for about $130.00 including shipping. They are pretty much infinitely adjustable, and can be configured to provide setback only, or setback and rise. Agonstini told me they would work with the stock cables and hoses, but I'm not sure how they came to that conclusion. I suspect they mean they would work as long as you configure the clip-ons to provide setback only. The only way I could make the brake hose reach when I configured the clip-ons for setback and rise was by doing some significant re-routing and modification. Since my arms are short and the V11 LeMans was built for a Gorilla with stubby legs, I decided I needed the rise as well as the setback for long-distance comfort.

 

Here is a picture showing the amount of rise the clip-ons will provide:

 

Here is a picture showing the amount of setback, as measured from the centerline of the fork tube:

 

To prepare the bike for this installation I removed all of the controls and switches from the original clip-ons (of course), as well as the upper triple-tree, instrument cluster, and instrument cluster mount. It was also necessary to remove the plastic wiring/cable retainer that bolts to the frame just behind the neck, as well as the pastic retainer under the fairing on the right fork leg for modification (I'll get to that shortly). Removing the entire fairing would make the job easier, but I left it on to aid in the alignment of the clip-ons, and to make sure I would leave enough clearance so the fluid reservoirs didn't hit the fairing when turning to the steering lock.

 

With all of that stuff out of the way I installed the clip-ons and started the difficutl task of figuring out how to route all of the wires, cables, and hoses. Here is a picture of the Left side routing:

 

Notice the fast idle cable stays in front of the fork tube, but the wiring and clutch hose are moved behind the fork tube. There was sufficient wiring length, but in order to make the clutch hose reach it was necessary to modify the wiring/hose retainer that bolts to the frame.

 

 

I used a snap-on butane powered hot knife to cut a relief in the retainer, just enough to allow sufficient extra slack in the clutch hose. Note that I did not cut the retainer all the way through (although in the picture it appears that I did), and I only cut it on the left side. The right side of the retainer does not require any modification.

 

Here is a picture of the left side when complete:

 

 

It's a little tricky getting everything positioned right, but it is possible. The clutch hose needs to be rotated a little at the master cylinder. If you loosen the bolt JUST ENOUGH to let it rotate and then QUICKLY tighten it again you will not need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

 

The right side was more difficult. There is almost no extra brake hose, so I had to completely change the way the brake hose comes up through the bottom of the fairing just to make it reach, and even then it's a tight fit. First I removed the brake hose from the master cylinder and pulled it down through the rubber grommet under the fairing. Then I routed the hose up the right fork leg. I used the hotknife to make a hole in the plastic retainer that fits around the right fork leg. Although the picture isn't that great, note the position of the hole. It's near the widest part of the retainer. It's important to make the hole in that area, or you will wind up having to make a hole in the large plastic piece that it bolts to.

 

 

Once I had the brake hose routed up through the access hole I had just made, the rest of the difficulty was figuring out how to position everything. Just like the left side it's a little difficult to figure out, but not impossible. Here is a picture of the right side hose, cable, and wire routing:

 

 

Notice the brake hose and throttle cable route in front of the fork tube, but all wiring goes behind the fork tube. Also, I found it necessary to remove the little microswitch from the master cylinder as well as cut the little wire tie that retained the switch's wiring. Be careful when you remove the switch - there is a little ball bearing behind it that will fall out. If you don't put it back in your brake light will stay on all of the time. I did not find it necessary to reinstall the wire tie due to the way I routed the wiring. Also, pay attention to the position the throttle cable was installed in when you disassemble the throttle assembly. I still don't know if I installed it back in the correct position, but the throttle is working properly and no readjustment was needed.

 

After I had everything bolted back up I adjusted the clip-ons by measuring the gap from the end of the clip-on to the tank on each side while the steering was turned to the lock for that side. I adjusted the up/down tilt of the clip ons by feel, but I intend to use a snap-on driveline angle gauge to fine tune the adjustment once I ride the bike to work, just to keep the two sides even with each other.

 

I bled the brakes (please do this - you can't be too cautious with brakes), and then repositioned the rubber bumper on the brake hose where it crosses the fender to make sure the brake hose wouldn't damage the paint.

 

 

So how does it feel? Was it worth it?

 

I DON'T KNOW! I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet! But just from sitting on it I can tell you that I have significantly reduced my reach to the handlebars. This should turn the LeMans into a nice travelling companion. Previously I couldn't handle more than 250 miles in a day on that bike. I'm now expecting at least double that amount. In addition to a more relaxed upper body riding position I think it will help my knees too because I won't be bent over to the point of restricting blood flow to my legs, as was the case before the mods.

 

I'm going to ride the bike soon and I'll post my results. Eventually I may wind up repositioning the fork legs so the clip-ons don't have the gap at the top, but for now I didn't want to upset the front end geometry. I also have the Evoluzione peg relocation kit to install, which I will get to soon. Hopefully for approximately $150.00 total I have made the LeMans into a COMFORTABLE sport-tourer. If you choose to install the Tommaselli clip-ons hopefully my post will save you from some of the headaches I went through.

 

Good luck!

[Guest russ]

Buck,

 

Sure looks like a nice install. Seems like alot of work.

 

I did the Verlicchi Clipons ($235 from MG Cycle but less shipping) and did not have to do anything but drop the tubes to move the cables and lines inside. A 45 minute job complete. Both look similar and I find mine comfortable. The Verlicchi's have more adjustability up and down as well (would need new hydraulic lines. Pic of mine is posted.

 

Seems to me like the extra $ on the Verlicchi's is worth the less hassle on install.

 

Sure is nice to have multiple choices

[dlaing]

Those look great, and the price was great. Thanks for the post, Buck. Your instructions should save me a some aggravation when I put my Centauro bar on my V11S.

Are you guys making sure that when the forks are fully extended that they do not pull or snap the brake line?

[Guest Buck]

Sure looks like a nice install.  Seems like alot of work.

It is nice, and it was alot of work! To look at it in the flesh it really looks almost factory. Now that I know how to do it I could probably do the job in less than 2 hours as opposed to the 6 hours I spent figuring out where and how to route everything.

 

As for having enough brake line to allow full extension of the forks, I haven't checked yet. It's gonna be close. But I still have the option of raising the fork tubes somewhat, which will shorten the distance between the master cylinder and calipers.

[daveco2]

Is it me or does anyone else have the pictures overlaying the text so most of it is unreadable?

Unfortunately, this would be a very intereting post to me.

 

Dave

[jrt]

I can print it to a pdf file if you want and email it to you (5.4Meg before optimiziation). Let me know off-list.

Or try a different browser? Opera, Netscape, or if you're one of the lucky 3% using a mac try safari. Works great.

 

Cheers,

Jason

[Guest Jaap]

Dave, what kind op computer/browser do you use?

[Guest Dokallis]

Hi Buck,

 

do u know if are available the handlebars for 43mm forks as well (LM 2002)? I'd like to mount them in a lower position under the top plate.