Missed UP and DOWN shifts

[Steve G.]

2000 V11 Sport with 16,000 miles - had the recall engine and transmission fixes about 3,000 miles ago. In the last 500 miles, the transmission has developed missed shifts in both upshifts and downshifts - somtimes multiple missed shifts in a row up or down - sometimes jumping over gears - somtimes the gear teeth grinding before finally engaging. Yesterday, to get home on a 400 mile ride, found it best to preload the shifter before a shift and move the lever VERY slowly and deliberately through its entire range, then let out clutch to see if a gear was selected - find a neutral - try again to find I've skipped over a gear. Both upshifts and downshifts. Most missed gears - 2nd and 5th. Up from 1st to 3rd, downshift from 6th to 4th and from 3rd to 1st. Grinding was scary - had a passenger and did not want the tranny to lock. Kept bike in 3rd and 6th for most miles to avoid shifting.

 

Any thoughts? External adjustment? If internal, could spell doom for this bike as probably not worth the cost of repair. Leaving for a 3000 mile road trip in 3 weeks. SRX to the rescue, again?

 

thmpr

Phoenix, AZ

I can't help but to think that the shop that did the warranty work buggered something up. A gearbox either does work, or doesn't. This one does not. Get to the dealer fast.

Ryan has had quite a time with his [bloody great looking black V11] machine, strange as mine is probably made in the same day as his, and while I've had "ancillaries" issues, it always ran good. I think your ECU has been buggered since new Ryan. This happens. It happened to a new work truck, again new. As for the dry bearings, I've seen this on all the bikes I've ever owned. While I had to read on this forum the results of the rear hub on these things being put together dry, and grease the thing up myself, I've always rammed extra grease into any sealed bearing I could get to, which is all except the head bearings on this bike.

Some of the teething problems on pre- 2002 bikes, when you look at it, were so easily preventable by the factory, as they were so simple. My list here; ignition switch theft proof bolts actually falling out!!, aluminum [rather than steel] oil cooler brackets suffering vibration cracking!!!, plastic starter motor bodywork cracking in half from vibration!!!, side cover bodywork cracking from the weight of the fuel tank resting down on them!!! Of course who could forget the FU@%ing relay issue!!! hot weather difficult starting/running, as a result of improperly thought out factory/dealer fuel line routing!!!. As Ryan mentioned, the dealer seemed unable or not interested in dealing with most of these issues,which I found a bit surprising. They did come through with new brackets, [had a stack of bloody steel ones in stock], and got a new starter cover, both on warranty. The relays really pissed me off, asd I kept mentioning the Chinese made GEI relays, at $2.30us each!!! Instead they would give me a handfull of the shitty Seimens relays, which after trying out, would usually end up being chucked against a concrete wall. Luckily the owner of this bike [me] is very passionate about bikes, not intimidated by them, is practiced at dealing with weird/disappointing quality control [i've worked on automobiles for 27yrs] and genuinely likes working on my machines. Now with over 32,000kms, this machine has been solid as a rock, and getting better with mileage I might add.

 

Ciao, Steve G.

[wambiker]

Well, I guess I am one of the lucky ones. My 2000 V11 now has 10600 miles on, always starts on the button and is getting noticeably smoother with miles. The harsh ride seems to have been sorted by my plucking up the courage to mess with the suspension settings.

 

Problems I have had:

 

Bad running and no torque - fixed by professional dyno tune at 4000 miles

Vibes developing at 8000 miles - fixed myself by careful TB balancing

Partially seized axle - fixed by me at 8200 miles for a tyre change.

Rear indicator stopped working - cleaned bulb and contacts with pan scourer.

Rear brake pads worn out at 8200 miles - fixed myself.

Front alternator oil seal leaking at 10,000 miles - fixed successfully myself after encouragement from on here.

 

I have had dealer services till now, but I have decided to do all that myself in future as it's so easy.

 

I like this bike. It has taken a lot longer to get used to than other bikes I have had, but it's a unique ride, and there is enough performance to satisfy  me. It looks great, and the finish, whilst not that good, is comparable to the finish on BMW 1150s of the same age and mileage. I know people who have had Friday afternoon beemers, and they are at least as bad a money pit as a bad V11 if not worse.

 

If you look on the other Guzzi sites, you will find plenty stories of starship mileage in the face of benign neglect of lube quality, servicing etc. etc. At least as many good experiences as bad. Personally, I think my V11 is going to prove the most reliable and cheap to run heavyweight bike I have ever had.

 

I don't cosset it, and I ride in bad weather regularly (this is England after all). I intend to maintain it properly, keep it standard, and let it develop that patina of age and use. When it is properly worn out, and I feel ready for something new, it will be gone.

62814[/snapback]

 

I would have to agree, my 2000 v11 has now done 16000 miles, 10500 between 2000 and july 2005 5500 since july when I bought it.. I do all my own maintenance-too tight to pay for work I can happily do myself, also knowledge it was done right and satisfaction in keeping things right- and have changed oil and filter(sump off), fitted risers and bars, new back tyre and wheel bearing. None of this was hard work, helped that the previous dealer Moto Strada, where very meticulous in there work with everything adjusted and greased correctly even down to recording mileage on the oil filter. Compared to the problems and costs I see friends with jap multi cylinders prepared to pay, the V11 is cheap to maintain. Finish is not too bad except for original silver case paint falling off engine, box and bevel housing. I tried a few bikes when looking early this year but decided on the V11, it has character, makes me smile whenever I look at it and above all is a hoot to ride. Lots of torque, fair handling, fast enough, has character and individuality in these days where if you took the decals of most Jap bikes you could not tell them apart. Dont get me wrong this is not jap bike bashing just my own preferences, I have owned both jap and italians over 30 years but keep coming back to Italians just because they suit me, I still have a morini 31/2 to go with the V11. So far the only problem was a failure to start after a fuel stop, traced to the side stand switch wiring(will be sorted this weekend) and it blew the right hand injector body off last sunday when it coughed as it started up, odd but will see what happens in the future-if it does it again I'll do something about it.

 

Cheers Gary

[belfastguzzi]

Do you mean it comes to rest in the inner ring?

I think fork ends are supposed to stay in the outer rings.

Perhaps this diagram helps:

 

62993[/snapback]

You drew a better diagram than mine, DL

 

I think thmpr is talking about the roller, part no.18 in the diagram, not the selector forks.

[Guest thmpr]

ignition switch theft proof bolts actually falling out!!,

                                                                                Ciao, Steve G.

62996[/snapback]

 

Unbelievable! Guess what? My ignition switch also fell out while on a fast ride of the twistie Devil's Highway Route 666 in Arizona. We immediately pulled over and had to secure the switch with zip ties. Could only imagine what would have happened if the switch lodged itself between a fork leg and steering stem (shiver) - off a cliff!

 

Everyone - check your ignitions switch bolts. I guess it's not a fluke.

 

thmpr

[Guest thmpr]

Final report on transmission:

 

Hammered loose roll pin back into inspection cover, made sure tight. Replaced lube with Redline Shockproof Heavy. Transmission is perfect. Took a lunch ride, not a single missed gear or false neutral. I am amazed that changing lubricant can create such a difference. Also, that roll pin. Even though I have no idea what it does, it must do something as I can not believe just lube fixed the tranny. Will change out rear bevel drive with Redline, also.

 

My hats off to Moto Guzzi. This was such a simple fix that only cost $10.00 for the new lube and about 3 hours of my time. How many other motorcycles, or cars for that matter, have transmission inspection plates that come out with the complete shift mechanism so easily. The hardest part of the repair was trying to coax all 1,000 positive wires back onto the sideways battery terminal.

 

Time for a Sunday bomb up Yarnell Hill and ride the Bagdad loop. The end.

 

thmpr

[dlaing]

You drew a better diagram than mine, DL 

 

I think thmpr is talking about the roller, part no.18 in the diagram, not the selector forks.

63028[/snapback]

formaggio senza spaghetti

Although I take no credit for the cooking....just the thieving.

 

PS Alright THMPPR! I suppose that pin may be keeping your ramp in just the right possition... It is odd that it worked ok for months and then started to flake .

[Baldini]

...that roll pin.  Even though I have no idea what it does, it must do something...

 

I think the pin is a stop for pawl arm. Guess that w/o it, even against spring pressure, the pawl arm may come away too far from shift wheel pins & allow uncontrolled movement of wheel. All springs were OK?

 

KB