new bike break-in/ track day

[Guest trispeed]

Hi, I have a new V11 Sport; would 1000 miles be enough break-in to go for a track day? Thanks.

[rocketman]

I would follow the break in guidelines in the owners manual. Your new guzzi will be tight for at least 5000 miles. Best not to push it too hard too fast. A good rule of thumb is to accelerate and decelerate at various rpms but don't exceed the rpm/mileage limitations of the break in period. If you do it right you will get thousands of miles of reliable service from your bike. Do a search and read all the opinions on this important topic. Have you done the first oil change? Yea, go to the track and have fun but don't let "racer boy" get carried away.

 

Rocketman

[Guest ratchethack]

Per the extensive discussion on this topic here (if you do a search) and especially at this link

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I'd feel completely comfortable doing a track day at mile 1. Per the break-in procedure described at the link, this is consistent with how my Guzzi was broken in. If you subscribe to the Motoman philosophy as I have done on every fresh engine I've broken in since quite awhile before Motoman was born , a track day is probably one of the best possible ways to break it in. In fact, IMHO, the only thing I can think of better for your bike at this point than a track day would be about 100X more miles on the track than you're gonna get. Just don't expect it to get fully loosened up until somewhere between 10K and 20K miles. Mine uses no oil between changes whatsoever, and generally runs like a Champ at 26K mi., but o'course that's just me, and as always, YMMV.

 

Have fun, just try 'n keep everything but the rubber bits (and your knee sliders, if y'er so inspired) off the tarmac.

[GuzzTim]

after extensive research the answer is "yes"..

 

 

 

enjoy

[dlaing]

I babied mine and I burn oil

[dlaing]

I think the breakin period is a con spy ricy of the warranters to minimize risk durring the break in period.

 

...your conspiracy theories may vary.

[Guzzirider]

I took it easy for the first few hundred miles then thrashed the bollocks off mine and it is now sweet as a nut after 12000 miles.

 

Guy

[pete roper]

There are many different methods of running in a bike, the important thing to remember is that running in is a controlled wearing out.

 

What you are trying to achieve is two things;

 

1.) Knocking the high spots off bits that slide against each other, (Pistons, rings, bore, valves and guides.) and 2.) work hardening hard faces that carry loads, (Pinion teeth, dogs in the gearbox and to a lesser extent splines.

 

Lets look at your Guzzi motor. For all it's major bearings it uses plain, 'Slipper' type bearings. These require ZERO break in, they either work or they don't, the whole point is that in service they should never touch as the hydro-dynamic wedge in the oil film will keep them apart.

 

Bores are Nicasil. although they carry a hone of sorts the fact is that the real *hone* is on the rings. The bore itself is many orders of magnitudesmoother than any cast iron bore ever was, in real terms rings will bed in within the first 200Km and the pistons are unlikely to get hot enough to seize if they have been cam-ground correctly, (Something Gillardoni have usually got spot on, and they make all the OE stuff for Guzzi and BMW.). If you haven't bust a ring yet you won't.

 

Work hardening is trickier and depends far more on heat cycling than anything else. If your first 1,000 miles weren't undertaken very gently and at a constant speed without stopping then the chances are that everything will be fine. If the engine and transmission have heat-cycled a few times the process will be well started and I don't think you need worry. I know there is a school of thought that says that heat cycling and work hardening are irrelevant to surfaces like gear pinions and dogs, cam lobes and followers etc. it isn't one I actually subscribe to. I do think it makes a difference.

 

The 'Thrash it from the word go' school is all well and good with race engines and anything that you expect to rebuild on a tediously regular basis. For my money the best bet is simply to ride it *normally*, (With a new bike one tends to be carefull so that's fine.). Don't lug it, (Under 3,000rpm.) don't thrash it, (Extended periods above 6,500rpm.) and do lots of up and down the gears and slowing down on the over-run using engine braking to draw oil up into the bores.

 

Most importantly DON'T change the oil too soon!!!! As I said at the beginning the running in is a controlled wearing out. As particulate matter gets knocked off the high spots in the engine's componentry it turns the oil into a very fine grinding paste. The particulate matter is far too small to damage bearings, (It simply passes through them.) but it does help with knocking off further high spots. Changing the oil too soon is far more likely to lead to problems than leaving it in a bit too long. Most manufactuirers recommend between 800 and 1,000 KM before the first change. Adhere to that schedule.

 

At the first oil change DO drop the sump and check it for crap left over from the machining of the cases and DO change the filter. Swap the gear oils and use a bit of moly in the bevelbox. Then go and thrash the tits off it!!!!!!

 

Other's opinions may vary, that's fine, but that break in has stood me in good stead for 25+ years on Guzzis. The race bike gets caned from the moment it has oil pressure

 

Pete

 

Pete

[Guest Britcheflee]

I had problems with gear changes at first on my V11 - missed gears, a bit notchy and clunky - but now at just over 2,000 miles it seems to be so much better and gear changes are smooth and much quieter - this might be me getting used to the bike but does the gearbox go through this 'bedding in' process like the engine? I also have found that the clutch is more 'forgiving' than it was when I got it at just over 1,000 miles when it was pretty harsh

 

Lee

[Guest PAULSMART]

I did a track day at approx 1000 miles - as I think pushing the engine, with some restraint, is good for it, indeed the dyno read out when the powercommander was fitted at around 2.5k showed an above average BHP (peaked at 86.4, if I remember correctly) - so, I'm confident that my engine is sweet!

 

Paul

[Mike Stewart]

I agree with ratchethack,

 

Breaking it in on the track is a sure way to seat in the piston rings correctly. Just make sure you have fresh oil in the engine and remember to have fun and keep the rubber side down! Dont ask how I know!

 

Mike

 

 

 

Per the extensive discussion on this topic here (if you do a search) and especially at this link

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I'd feel completely comfortable doing a track day at mile 1.  Per the break-in procedure described at the link, this is consistent with how my Guzzi was broken in.  If you subscribe to the Motoman philosophy as I have done on every fresh engine I've broken in since quite awhile before Motoman was born , a track day is probably one of the best possible ways to break it in.  In fact, IMHO, the only thing I can think of better for your bike at this point than a track day would be about 100X more miles on the track than you're gonna get.   Just don't expect it to get fully loosened up until somewhere between 10K and 20K miles.  Mine uses no oil between changes whatsoever, and generally runs like a Champ at 26K mi., but o'course that's just me, and as always, YMMV.

 

Have fun, just try 'n keep everything but the rubber bits (and your knee sliders, if y'er so inspired) off the tarmac.

63996[/snapback]

[Guest trispeed]

thank you all for your expertise and consideration.

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

The 'Thrash it from the word go' school is all well and good with race engines and anything that you expect to rebuild on a tediously regular basis.

 

For my money the best bet is simply to ride it *normally*, (With a new bike one tends to be carefull so that's fine.).

 

Don't lug it, (Under 3,000rpm.)

 

don't thrash it, (Extended periods above 6,500rpm.)

 

and do lots of up and down the gears and slowing down on the over-run using engine braking to draw oil up into the bores.

 

Most importantly DON'T change the oil too soon!!!!

 

At the first oil change DO drop the sump and check it for crap left over from the machining of the cases and DO change the filter.

 

Swap the gear oils and use a bit of moly in the bevelbox.

 

Then go and thrash the tits off it!!!!!!

 

64014[/snapback]

 

I agree with Pete wholeheartedly.

 

From the above points I would like to highlight the 'do not lug it' !! This goes for any time in the life of an engine. The stress on an engine from lugging it is equal to that of running full throttle. Aircraft engines have manifold pressure guages even on non supercharged engines to indicate whether or not you are lugging the engine.

 

I would also like to mention that it is a good idea to use basic motor oil for break-in, never synthetics or fancy oils with lots of additives. This does not help for break-in. After 5000 km or so then spend your money on good oil.

 

I especially agree with Pete on the last point. That is how I like to ride any bike and my V11 is no exception ........and their are only two tits left on it!!!!!