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this is not another oil thread


Guest trispeed

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Guest trispeed

Hello knowledgeble people.

In addition to the valve clearance discrepancies between manual and bike sticker, there is an oil viscosity disagreement, as well. Some manuals state 20/50, 10/40 and my on- bike sticker says 5/40. ?!?

This is a 2004 V 11 Sport

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Probably depends on riding conditions and temperature. In LA, I'd tend toward heavier oil and in South Dakota, maybe a lighter oil. Bear in mind that he differences are minimal. We're not talking gear oil vs. sewing machine oil. I'm told that most of the wear on an engine is right after startup, before the oil is circulating through the bearings and goo gaws so a lighter oil would pick up more easily. Conversly, a lighter oil will thin out faster also (?). Not sure about how linear the behavior of synthetic oil is. Probably more important is to just change your oil regularly.

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What JRT said.

 

Wider range oils don't last as long. A 20W50 with the same quality base and additive pack will last longer than a 5W50, but the 5W oil will protect the engine better if you live in a very cold place. I think you can safely use all the modern friction modified thinner car engine oils in there if you want, given the dry clutch. I run 10W40 diesel car oil in mine.

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I think you can safely use all the modern friction modified thinner car engine oils in there if you want, given the dry clutch. I run 10W40 diesel car oil in mine.

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I would think so too, but experienced hack, Peter Roper kind of disagrees with the friction modifier useage....causes glazing or something....

 

and for my two cents, I say go with the lighter oils for the first 10,000 miles and then go thicker.

And yes I have certainly seen that 10/50 does not seem to last like 20/50, but I still like the idea of using the wider grade, I just change it very frequently.

For southern California, it might be a good idea to use 20/50 in summer and 10/50 the rest of the year.

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Don't know about the glazing issue. I just make sure I get oil that is ok in a turbo engine, as this should stand up to the occasional high temperatures in an air cooled lump.

 

(Looks mighty like another oil thread to me! :P )

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As it's a viscosity thread can we call you a "thicko"

 

peepwall1.gif

 

No I didn't think so

 

I've put allsorts in. depends what I can get hold of. In the hand book they have the usual chart and unless you live either in the Artic or Equator any thing seems acceptable. I spent ages trying to find the approved grades and spent sleepless nights worrying about the 10w40 I've had to put in. and the occasional blink of the oil light. But she keeps chugging on despite my best maintance efforts. :luigi:

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Yak fat! Yak fat! Bring on the Yak fat!!!!

 

I'm also hoping to be able to run my bikes on the by-product of a sideline I'm starting up from my beach house on the south coast of NSW. Just offshore there's an Island, Montague Island, that is a National Park and nature reserve. It's also a breeding place for fur seals. Along with the whale hunting trips, (Harpoon your own whale then drag it to the beach where we'll barbecue it over old car tyres!) Jude and I reckon we could run seal clubbing excursions. Jude has already worked out that we can use their filthy pelts to make ledderhosen and I reckon if I boil 'em down for long enough I'll get some decent lubricant out of 'em. Then of course ther's the chance to play 'Fairy Penguin Football'. The fun will never stop!!!!!

 

The opportunities for promotional slogans for my business will be endless! 'I'll spear a whale to make a sale!', 'I'll club a seal to do a deal', (Already used by one bloke in Alabama :grin: )

 

Pete

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