high output alternators / boards

[dlaing]

I doubt the ECU draws even one amp, but I'd let Cliff (or Dlaing or Moto) answer that one.

Coils?  No idea...

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I have no idea.

But this thread encouraged me to put the volt meter on and get some crude readings.

My electrics are pretty much stock.(EDIT no PCIII during test)

There are some grey areas between slow charging and full charging.

below 12.6V(or technically higher with the hawker) it is discharging.

at 12.6V, it is not charging

at 13.xV it is slowly charging

at 14.0 to 14.6 it is properly or fully charging.

above 15V it is cooking the battery...(and probably slow cooking between 14.6 and 15V)

 

So the results of my test are:

with low beam and taillight on

at 1000rpm it is about 12.6V

at somewhere between 1200 and 1400 it starts to get over 13V which is better than I thought.

at somewhere between 1500 and 2000 it starts to get over 14V which is also better than I thought.

If I put on the high beam flasher, I can still get over 13V at 1500rpm and if I keep the RPM over 3000RPM I get no voltage drop, and in fact even get a small rise in voltage.

At lower rpms the high beam flasher on drops the voltage about half a volt.

 

So, my synopsis is that if it can handle the highbeam flasher's additional 60W, that well, than 60Watts of clothing could probably be handled pretty well by just keeping the revs over 3000rpm,

but just a little more draw, like 80W above the normal would probably require keeping the revs over 4000rpm and

something like 100W would probably need the revs kept over 6000rpm...

But I am only making very crude extrapolations.

100W of additional load will charge below 6000RPM, but probably not at maximum Voltage.

Since my extrapolations are crude, somebody might want to test their equipment at varying RPMs

Switching to a true HID headlight could save about 20W and switching to LED taillight could save about 4W.

If your accessories are over 70 to 90W I think this could make a difference. I would not put 100W of accecories on our bike and I would not put 70W without cutting down on consumption elsewhere, or only using when above 4000RPM.

DISCLAIMER: Batteries don't charge as well when they age, 13.xV may be adequate, the manual considers maximum charging to be anywhere from 14 to 14.6V, and my calculations are rough, so your mileage may vary.

[fernando]

vow,

 

thank you dlaing .

will keep reading your post and will figure out what to do.

 

thank you for taking the time .

 

fernando

[jrt]

A little work rewiring the headlight and grounding scheme will go a long way toward lifting resistive losses. As I recall, the headlight grounding scheme (and power delivery) is through wires that are too small- thus converting more than a few precious watts into heat.

[docc]

That is a good improvement. I've rewired both the headlamps and the horns through separate fused hots, relays and grounds. Still they draw what they draw.

 

I'm thinking of going to the Gerbings vest which is 33watts. I don't like riding under 40F anyway since the traction can reach up and bite you right in the patoot!

[docc]

Isn't there someone out there with a 30 amp ammeter who could guage the actual current draw? My puny ammeter will only do 10amps.

[DVH]

Isn't there someone out there with a 30 amp ammeter who could guage the actual current draw? My puny ammeter will only do 10amps.

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I'll dig out my clamp meter and try and get some readings this afternoon.

[DVH]

Had a quick test this afternoon,

23.6A @12 engine not running, Headlight through aditional relays, otherwise stock + Oxford heated overgrips, fuel pump running.

 

Started engine

20.2A @14v, after allowing for batt recharging, from start up. at an indicated 1800rpm.

 

this is 283w

 

above 2500rpm i was getting a lot of fluctuations on the Volts and Amps, which I have traced to some crusty electrical connections. so they are added to the list of to do jobs this winter whild

st its laid up

 

so if you are running 60w heated clothing you will require 343w =24.5A@14v

which would require 4000rpm to balance the system

I.E below 4000rpm discharging batt, above 4000rpm charging batt

[Alex-Corsa]

The sport 1100ie has a 350W light-machine system , or this Alternator thing (I guess that's how it is called.)

On the advertisment site of the euromotoelectrics there is this system that produces 450W, so what's the gain using it???

 

And if it is better using more powerfull output alternator system then why not use the one that's on the NEW Griso , my databook on this new Guzzi says it produses 540W power, isn't it better and what will happen if I use it on my Guzz? Am I going to dry it??

 

Then again there is this Silent-Hektik site with all these upgrades for the guzzis but what difference does it make if one uses something like this that they haveDigital ignition system, orIgnition coils ????

 

Anyone heared about this TRIPLE SPARK technique or even more has abyone tried it??

 

Well I know that there is a lot going on with current and the better distribution you have the better the engine HP that find their home to the ground.

 

Let's have some light to this subject>

What is it worth improving to the electrics and how is this translated in "GAIN"????

[jrt]

Let's have some light to this subject>

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Har har. You're worse than I am....

 

What is it worth improving to the electrics and how is  this translated in "GAIN"????

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I think we will all have our individual reasons. I'd like one for my sidecar rig. I plan to rewire the bike by hand (so it'll be done right), and I would like to have some extra lamps and some outlets for electric gloves, gloves or vest for the sidecar monkey, and power for a GPS (I'm dreaming) and an intercom system. Since it's a sidecar, I should also provide power for a small refridgerator unit for the beer in the trunk. Dripping icewater is sooo gauche.

What I REAALLY want to do is build a cell phone jammer. How smart would it be to give my passenger a Klystron tube operating at GHz (microwave) frequencies?

[docc]

DVH,

 

thanks for the reply!

 

I'm reading your post as the bike takes roughly 20 amps to run. ( Is that with hi-beam?).

 

Riding yesterday I found it easy to turn 4500-5000 on the freeway (80-85 mph) but on the backroads I often saw the tach below 4k.

[Alex-Corsa]

Har har.  You're worse than I am....

I think we will all have our individual reasons.  I'd like one for my sidecar rig.  I plan to rewire the bike by hand (so it'll be done right), and I would like to have some extra lamps and some outlets for electric gloves, gloves or vest for the sidecar monkey, and power for a GPS (I'm dreaming) and an intercom system.

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That's no big requirement for voltage these things consume almost nothing.....hmmm eerrrr , compared to the below I mean.

 

  Since it's a sidecar, I should also provide power for a small refridgerator unit for the beer in the trunk.  Dripping icewater is sooo gauche.

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Well that will give the power system a run for his money..

 

Dunno , all I need is a healthy motor ignition .as "healthier" as it gets without having to drill any holes in it for twin spark , ect.ect.

Anyone else on this subject>?

[jrt]

Dunno , all I need is a healthy motor ignition .as "healthier" as it gets without having to drill any holes in it for twin spark , ect.ect.

Anyone else on this subject>?

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Sorry- I'll give you some more, athough others will chime in too. If all you need is a healthy spark, a headlamp and a horn, then, IMO, the stock alternator is more than enough.

The spark is delivered by the coils which are a transformer, of course. More voltage to the coils translates to more voltage (and 'better' spark) at the plug (within reason, of course). A properly charging system will provide the maximum safe and steady voltage to the coils necessary for a proper spark.

You cannot get around Ohm's law- V=IR. If you wire in a bunch of silly accessories, they draw power. As they draw power, the available amperage from the alternator drops. Consider R to be all the resistive power-consuming parts like a light or a horn. I is fixed by your alternator, and V drops from the max allowed by the voltage regulator down to whatever it happens to be. That is- as R goes up, V goes down, as power consumption goes up- the available volts go down.

The battery acts like a power buffer (providing I for a short time), but it is limited. After that- the battery runs down, the alternator is still putting out max amps but if they aren't enough then voltage to everything drops. At that point, it's a losing battle. The battery HAS to have above 12.6 V (~14 V for new gel batteries) to recharge. 11.5 V at 100 amps wont recharge your battery. 14.2 V at 0.2 A will. So- you need both Volts and Amps to get the job done. I need lots of both, since I want to run a cooler. You probably don't since you have more modest requirements. Your bike will corner better, as well.

[docc]

 

The spark is delivered by the coils which are a transformer, of course.  More voltage to the coils translates to more voltage (and 'better' spark) at the plug (within reason, of course).  A properly charging system will provide the maximum safe and steady voltage to the coils necessary for a proper spark. 

You cannot get around Ohm's law- V=IR.  If you wire in a bunch of silly accessories, they draw power.  As they draw power, the available amperage from the alternator drops.  Consider R to be all the resistive power-consuming parts like a light or a horn.  I is fixed by your alternator, and V drops from the max allowed by the voltage regulator down to whatever it happens to be.  That is- as R goes up, V goes down, as power consumption goes up- the available volts go down. 

The battery acts like a power buffer (providing I for a short time), but it is limited.  After that- the battery runs down, the alternator is still putting out max amps but if they aren't enough then voltage to everything drops.  At that point, it's a losing battle.  The battery HAS to have above 12.6 V (~14 V for new gel batteries) to recharge.  11.5 V at 100 amps wont recharge your battery.  14.2 V at 0.2 A will.  So- you need both Volts and Amps to get the job done.

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Test Friday.

[Alex-Corsa]

Sorry- I'll give you some more, athough others will chime in too.  If all you need is a healthy spark, a headlamp and a horn, then, IMO, the stock alternator is more than enough. 

........You probably don't since you have more modest requirements.  Your bike will corner better, as well.

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Alright that was pretty informative, Thanks jrt.

[jrt]

Test Friday.

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It's open-book, so don't sweat it.

 

 

Alex-