Ohlins Info & Part Numbers

[belfastguzzi]

Does anyone know the part numbers of Ohlins suspension as fitted on the 2002 models?

Can you add any more info to this?

Edit: thanks, I've added some more numbers in now.

 

1 Ohlins, MG 2002

 

Front Forks

The forks are Road & Track 43mm's (on website: FG 43)

Code number:

FG 8470 2002.01.25 (Right)

FG 8470 2002.01.23 (Left)

spec:

Springs: std 8.5 N/mm? or 9?

R&T43 oil

Oil level / air gap: 80 to 110mm. Stock gap is 85mm (can more people confirm this?).

 

Dave L posted these figures:

"Here is the Fork Spring Info (from an Ohlins Fork Manual, but not the Scura manual...): "

 

OEM spring rate

4745-95, 9,5 N/mm

Optional springs:

4745-75, 7.5 N/mm (marking -75). ( = 7.65Kg/mm which close to 7.7)

4745-80, 8.0 N/mm (marking -80).

4745-85, 8.5 N/mm (marking -85).

4745-90, 9.0 N/mm (marking -90).

4745-95, 9.5 N/mm (marking -95).

4745-10, 10.0 N/mm (marking -10).

4745-05, 10.5 N/mm (marking -05).

4745-11, 11.0 N/mm (marking -11).

 

 

Rear Suspension unit

Ohlins code number: ?

Guzzi part number: MG1260

(The model number on the shock unit, underneath forward eye, is MG1260)

On the website it looks like the code number is a 46 HR.. , or is this a relacement kit?

(MG kit: MG 127, shock absorber 46 HRCS)

"Ohlins list 46HRCS as aftermarket fitment has remote preload adj (S) so... ours would be 46 HRC (Ext res =H, Adj reb =R, Adj comp =C). Presumably they do not supply 46HRC set up for V11. [baldini has] 100N/mm (85 std) spring but may go for next stiffer in future."

"Cycle World changed shim stack, reducing comp damping by approx 5%"

 

The Rear Spring is

Code number: 1091 - 26/85 L511

1091 is part no. for 160mm long spring

(1093=150mm)

26/85: 26 is Ohlins code for 85N/mm spring rate

L*** is just a batch no.

spec:

-Spring is 160mm long-

-approx 80mm outside diameter

-made with approx 11mm diameter rod (10 mm wih coating ?)

-has 5 complete coils at full thickness or 6 complete coils with taper of spring included.

 

2 Ohlins, MG 2003/04 revised suspension, numbers/spec:

 

??????????? What's the difference?

 

 

Info from previous posts. This info isn't comprehensive or up-to-date. A lot more on personal settings/adjustments has been posted since this thread was originally done:

 

 

3 More on custom changes

 

Baldini, about 200lbs, changed springs:

Front – 10 from 8.5 AND increased air gap to 100mm

Rear – 100 from 85

"W/heavier springs I reduced damping - b (now 6-12 clix out) & f - & got a better ride... it's working on the spring rather than the damping - damping's to control speed. Setting comp damping for comfort means bike moves around a bit more. At first this is a bit disconcerting but only becomes a problem if pushing really hard on bumpy roads or you can't trust your tyres. I use Guzzi book pressures, which are lower than manuf rec'd."

 

DBD, 252lbs, had changes:

Pro Pilot revalved both the front forks and the rear shock as well as changing the stock spring on the rear shock to a heavier one.

• "Valving front and back were modified for weight, and plushness with more controlled damping from the initial compression, smother transition into mid-stroke, and rest of travel with applicable bottoming resistance corrected for rider weight. Should feel "more controled action" (less springy and jumpy) thru whole stroke front and rear with more usable function at adjusters (better damping / much more comfy)"

• forks: a slightly different weight oil, (245/262W) rather than heavier fork springs. Pro Pilot didn't feel the range increase was worth the expense of changing springs.

• spring: SPG 1091-29 261F/248INS 13MM PRE. (Doesn't match number format above?) DBD says, I assume the 29 number refers to the rate, the 261 is the length and the 248 indicates the preloaded length as installed?

[Guzzirider]

BFG- my number is printed on the actual spring- I can just about see it without taking anything off.

 

Mine was built in 2003 so it may have a different number to yours but I will have a look when I get home if you like and let you know the number.

 

Guy

[Baldini]

Forks:

The forks are Road & Track 43mm's, same supplied as aftermarket.

I replaced seals at 7k & 12k & they've just gone again at 16k. These latest were the new style w/extended lip - got even less miles!

Springs 10N/mm (std 8.5).

I stuck w/ R&T43 oil but increased air gap to 100mm.

 

Shock:

Ohlins list 46HRCS as aftermarket fitment has remote preload adj (S) so I guess ours would be 46 HRC (Ext res =H, Adj reb =R, Adj comp =C). Presumably they do not supply 46HRC set up for V11. I have 100N/mm (85 std) spring but may go for next stiffer in future.

 

Cycle World changed shim stack "reducing comp damping by approx 5%" see http://www.cycleworld.com/xp6/CycleWorld/t...uzzi.xml?body=2

 

W/heavier springs I reduced damping - b (now 6-12 clix out) & f - & got a better ride. As someone said here, it's working on the spring rather than the damping - damping's to control speed. Setting comp damping for comfort means bike moves around a bit more. At first this is a bit disconcerting but only becomes a problem if pushing really hard on bumpy roads or you can't trust your tyres. I use Guzzi book pressures, which are lower than manuf rec'd.

 

I still haven't got round to revalve. But I'm sure it is way to go.

 

Good luck.

 

KB

[belfastguzzi]

BFG- my number is printed on the actual spring- I can just about see it without taking anything off.

 

Mine was built in 2003 so it may have a different number to yours but I will have a look when I get home if you like and let you know the number.

 

67354[/snapback]

 

 

Thanks Guy, but that's just the spring number, isn't it? I'm looking for the shock unit number so that the 'suspension man' can find out more inf about what's there before I go to see him.

 

Let me know the number anyway, ta.

[Guzzirider]

Thanks Guy, but that's just the spring number, isn't it? I'm looking for the shock unit number so that the 'suspension man' can find out more inf about what's there before I go to see him.

 

Let me know the number anyway, ta.

67390[/snapback]

 

 

It was a bit dark inside my garage and even with a torch I only managed to get the last few numbers 26 /85 / L262.

 

I'll have a look in daylight tomorrow for the prefix but from memory it maybe 46HRC.

 

Ohlins do not list the standard Guzzi Ohlins rear shock- you can only buy them without the remote preload adjuster from a Guzzi dealer or parts specialist so your local Ohlins specialist may struggle to find out info - hopefuly by just looking at it they will work it out. The only shock he will have listed is the one with remote preload.

I know Motomecca can supply the standard Ohlins shock so they may have a part number for you.

 

 

Guy

[belfastguzzi]

It was a bit dark inside my garage and even with a torch I only managed to get the last few numbers 26 /85 / L262.

I'll have a look in daylight tomorrow for the prefix but from memory it maybe 46HRC.

Guy 

67470[/snapback]

Thanks again, & Baldini.

 

The Rear Spring is

Code number: 1091 - 26/85 L511, or in your case L262 – seems this is just a batch number.

 

I think the shock number must be inaccessible, on the head of the shock.

 

I'll send him the info that I've got so far and we'll take it from there.

[belfastguzzi]

any more info to add to this?

 

see threadMarch 2006

[macguzzi]

I'll check my Scura 498 tomorrow it should be the same as yours

[Bruce Reader]

Thanks again, & Baldini.

 

The Rear Spring is

Code number: 1091 - 26/85 L511, or in your case L262 – seems this is just a batch number.

 

I think the shock number must be inaccessible, on the head of the shock.

 

I'll send him the info that I've got so far and we'll take it from there.

67474[/snapback]

 

G'day to the Scura faithfull.

 

I have the front and rear suspension of the bike for new springs and revalve.

 

To answer the above

 

The model number on the actual shock unit (Underneath forward eye)

is MG1260.

 

A seperate number below it seems to be a batch no- 109807

 

-Spring is 160mm long-

-approx 80mm outside diameter

-made with approx 11mm diameter rod (10 mm wih coating ?)

-has 5 complete coils at full thickness or 6 complete coils with taper of spring included.

 

I will have the susp shop check record the characteristics of the front springs including part no, length, spring rate etc. I will also attempt to find out the type of valving that came with this model.

 

Regards

 

Bruce

-

[belfastguzzi]

Thanks.I've added this to first post.

[belfastguzzi]

I have changed seals and put the forks back together, hopefully with parts in the correct order. This is another one of those jobs that will be much easier second time around. All is not completely clear though and I have found it a bit difficult to determine which are the right bits of info from various manuals and write-ups.

 

For starters, the Scura Ohlins manual, as posted on Guzzitech, gives contradictory info from the various Ohlins RT43 manuals on the Ohlins site.

 

1) Rebound and compression adjusters

 

1.a) The V11 Scura manual

says rebound is the screw at bottom of fork leg and compression is the screw on the top plugs: both set at 13 clicks from closed. Spring preload is nut on top plugs, set at 13 turns.

 

1.b ) Ohlins says

rebound is top screw (9 - 12 clicks) & compression is on lower fork leg (6 - 16 clicks)

 

Which is correct? Is the Scura set-up really opposite to the other R&T 43s?

 

EDIT: I suppose that the practical application of some pressure will show which is which.

 

2) Oil level.

Some manuals say to measure the level with spring in place, others with spring removed. I measured it without the spring, as it's hard enough to see the level accurately even like that. It's more difficult to measure down the side of the spring.

 

How do any of you measure the oil level – what do you use to do it?

 

I understand that the level is usually around 170mm. I filled to 165mm.

Baldini has previously said that "Ohlins give air gap of 85mm w/springs. I'm going to try 90/95mm cos maybe it's a little hard as is.." I think he is now at 100mm and that probably equates to around 150mm without spring. 85 seems a very high oil level – if 170 is the general Ohlins figure (presumably without spring).

 

Where do Ohlins give the 85mm figure?

 

 

3) Spring Pre-load

The manuals say, adjust spring preload 25 - 30 mm static sag, 35-50 with rider.

Info coming from Todd at Guzzitech give the following settings are for a 180lb rider (total with all gear on):

Front forks:

Set sag to 1/2" (12.7mm) +5.5 turns from full soft on the spring preload setting.

Compression: +3 of 28 (max) from full soft.

Rebound: +6 of 28 (max) from full soft

We pulled the forks up through the triples @3/8" (9mm) or to the third line on the forks under the clip-ons, to maximize stability.

So...

 

4) Fork height.

People have set the fork length at the third ring to get sharper steering, but surely this should be with the fork leg pulled through the triple clamp AND the bar clamp, so that 3 rings / 9mm are showing clear above the top, bar clamp – not UNDER the bar clamp, 9mm above triple, as above?

 

5) Valve needle position

The valve and spring that come out after piston shaft is removed: I put them back in, spring first and needle pointing down to bottom of fork leg. Is that correct?

 

*P.S.

The manual in the Fileshare Forum for 'Scura Fork' is not exactly the same as the actual fork fitted to the Scura.

[Baldini]

1. Rebound adj at top in fork top nuts. Compression adj at fork bottom.

 

2. Not clear how you're doing this. Air gap is measured with fork outer legs fully down on stanchions, springs in place. Measure from top of fork outer leg to oil level surface to get reading. I use a vernier gauge (these have a rod that's used as depth gauge). I have 95mm air gap.

 

3. Adjust spring preload to give between 25-33% sag (w/rider). Best to set it up for yourself rather than use other peoples settings.

 

4. Yeh. I raised forks so that third ring is flush w/top of bar clamp. Check for clearances at mudguard/brake lines etc. but should be no problem.

 

5. Yeh, that's right.

 

Not sure, what manuals you're looking at but there's stuff on

I'll see if I can dig out a link.

 

Best, KB

[belfastguzzi]

1. Rebound adj at top in fork top nuts. Compression adj at fork bottom.

 

2. Not clear how you're doing this. Air gap is measured with fork outer legs fully down on stanchions, springs in place. Measure from top of fork outer leg to oil level surface to get reading. I use a vernier gauge (these have a rod that's used as depth gauge). I have 95mm air gap.

 

3. Adjust spring preload to give between 25-33% sag (w/rider). Best to set it up for yourself rather than use other peoples settings.

 

4. Yeh. I raised forks so that third ring is flush w/top of bar clamp. Check for clearances at mudguard/brake lines etc. but should be no problem.

 

5.  Yeh, that's right.

 

Not sure, what manuals you're looking at but there's stuff on

I'll see if I can dig out a link.

 

Best, KB

86024[/snapback]

 

Thanks.

re 2: that's what I did, except with spring out (as the manual I looked at said to do that). Your 95 is probably close to 145 without spring.

 

I was looking at the manuals on ohlins.com – don't see one that is the exact same as our model. The MG Scura Ohlins manual was also confusing things as nothing matched what it says:

[Baldini]

....Your 95 is probably close to 145 without spring.

 

I was looking at the manuals on ohlins.com – don't see one that is the exact same as our model.....

 

Yeh, 145 w/o spring would be about right.

 

http://www.ohlins.com click click go to Owners manual Road & Track Front Fork (part # 7282-02) also R&T Front Fork FG43 (part# 7282-04A).

 

KB

[belfastguzzi]

Note how one of these manuals (the older one) says to 'ALWAYS have the spring in place' to take oil measurement and the other says to do it with spring out! Also the table in one shows that your 145 - 95 is off the chart (i.e. The level range shown goes from 150 to 190) while the other table indicates that it's in the middle of the range (80 to 110) :!:

 

Science

 

The 07282-04A manual seems to be more up-to-date than the other one.