Oil Leak After Crash!

[Guest ratchethack]

Go for it Doc. It'll be good for you and the Guzzi.

Ya got all the help you need right here.

( I come here for all my high drama)

I'm rooting for ya.

   

69615[/snapback]

I'm with the Weej, Gil. One of the reasons using this Forum to walk you thru a procedure is so powerful, is that if someone posts something that someone else disagrees with, you're sure to get all sides of the point in question. Invariably, the voices of experience and wisdom will prevail. As Carl noted, this operation should be a lead-pipe cinch.

 

Remember cracking your first cadaver chest in Med School? (I've never done it, but I bet I wouldn't forget ) This should be more like doing a manicure.

 

Case in point on disagreement with a previous post: It wasn't Mae West who said, "Fasten your seat belts; it's going to be a bumpy night!" (Bette Davis in "All About Eve," 1950.) Streaming audio at this link:

 

http://www.meredy.com/bettedavis/freedownloads.htm

 

 

I predict an entirely satisfying result, my friend. It'll give you a boatload of confidence for your next challenge.

[Mal]

It shouldn't be a particularly difficult job although if your memory is anything like mine and it doesn't get put back together the same day as disassembly it might be worth taking a few pictures with a digital camera of the process for reference or at least making notes.

 

good luck...and enjoy it.

 

Mal

[Dr Gil]

After I get the extranious stuff out of the way it looks like the timing cover will be a pretty straightforward "remove bolts, take off cover, remove gasket, replace gasket, replace cover, tighten bolts" sort of thing. Doesn't look like a big deal at all.

 

After reading the shop manual what does cause me more concern is the alternator removal. It calls for a "special locking tool" to hold the stator while the central nut is loosened. Also of some concern is its warning about "avoiding demagnitization" by replacing the rotor back into the stator while working on the bike. How big a problem do you suppose this is? Demagnitizing the alternator would be a BAD thing.

 

Last question (I'm trying to have everything clear in my mind and all my tools and parts ready for the operation) is about coating the gasket. It seems as though most of the responses in this thread assumed it would be made of fiber (as did I). I'm surprised to find that it is actually metal. Will this make a difference in the gasket compound I should use (I'm thinking of going the silicone route complete with thread)?

 

I'm off to drain the bike's precious bodily fluids...

[docc]

The thread is a 'non-gasket' technique, but I don't see why it wouldn't work with a gasket. Most wrenches i know would only smear one side of the gasket allowing deformation to seal the other side and provide for easy access if you ever have to go in there again.

 

The sun should be going down in Australia as we sleep that we might wake up to Pete's wisdom on 'demagnetization'.

[jrt]

After reading the shop manual what does cause me more concern is the alternator removal.  It calls for a "special locking tool" to hold the stator while the central nut is loosened.  Also of some concern is its warning about "avoiding demagnitization" by replacing the rotor back into the stator while working on the bike.  How big a problem do you suppose this is?  Demagnitizing the alternator would be a BAD thing.

Just put the bike in gear- that will effectively lock the engine while you loosen the nut.

For the rotor- when you get it off, just set it on a wooden bench. Those permanent magnets are actually pretty hard to demagnetize. Whacking them good and hard with a hammer can do it, so can heating them up to about 600 degrees. I doubt you will do either of those.

 

Last question (I'm trying to have everything clear in my mind and all my tools and parts ready for the operation) is about coating the gasket.  It seems as though most of the responses in this thread assumed it would be made of fiber (as did I).  I'm surprised to find that it is actually metal.  Will this make a difference in the gasket compound I should use (I'm thinking of going the silicone route complete with thread)?

 

I'm off to drain the bike's precious bodily fluids...

69651[/snapback]

I'm surprised it is metal as well. This should be a low pressure gasket. I would still reccomend the hylomar. I love that stuff.

Good luck, Gil.

[belfastguzzi]

Metal gasket?!

 

I wonder did they change to that because so many gaskets were being damaged on assembly, leading to the leaks? Doubt it. Seems strange for this location / use. As for demagnetisation – assuming you're putting it back together this side of Christmas, it's hardly something to worry about.

[Dr Gil]

Update:

 

Fluids have been drained, battery disconnected. Oil cooler is moved (somewhat) out of the way (still wondering if I need to disconnect it and go for the coil too). I have located all my bolts on the timing cover that need to be removed. There are a couple of them that may be "challenging" as the frame is in the way. I've taken off the alternator cover and tried to remove the center bold but with no luck. Even with the bike in gear I can't get enough force on it to break it free (rear wheel is elevated and just spins). I'm waiting on help to arrive to help me get the bike off the Guzzi jack (never figured out how to do that by myself)

 

So we've postponed removing the gasket until tomorrow.

 

Meanwhile it occurs to me why don't I try to cut a 1.5 inch hole in the alternator cover and put in a rubber plug to facilitate valve adjustments? While trying to break the center nut free I couldn't help but notice how nice this would be for finding top dead center.

 

Here's a picture of my "field of battle."

[Guest ratchethack]

Looks like a good start, Gil. I hesitate a little to jump in here because I haven't done this myself. But not having done something before hasn't stopped me yet (got the trans out and back in just fine). My approach to removing the crank nut would be to get a helper to carefully hold a crow bar in the flywheel teeth through the inspection hole - I'd make sure to pad the hole so as not to mark it up. This would give you the ability to focus all your attention and force on your breaker bar.

 

Maybe someone else will have another idea?

 

RE: cutting an access hole in the alternator cover and plugging it to facilitate valve adjustments - I have to ask, Why? It's not that hard to get the 4 cover bolts out (at least it hasn't been for me)?

 

The most obvious answer to, Why Not? - you simply CAN'T defile the Guzzi Falcon!

[DeBenGuzzi]

The most obvious answer to, Why Not? - you simply CAN'T defile the Guzzi Falcon!

69686[/snapback]

Isn't it an eagle? and if your eagle badge has fallen off wouldn't be a bad idea to blodge a hole and put in a rubber plug for adjustments.

[Ouiji Veck]

I like the hole in the alt. cover idea.

I'm not going to do it but thats true Guzzisti thinking.

Also never been there (on a Guzzi) but sometimes those are reverse threads

on the stator nut. Anybody?

I usually use impact on any spinning dodads.

Impact and fly wheel crowbars can be dangerous ....but effective.

[Guest mtiberio]

forget the flywheel crowbar, put it in 5th and have your friend stomp on the foot brake

[Ouiji Veck]

forget the flywheel crowbar, put it in 5th and have your friend stomp on the foot brake

69692[/snapback]

much better

As long as the slop in the drive isn't too agrivating.

[mike wilson]

forget the flywheel crowbar, put it in 5th and have your friend stomp on the foot brake

69692[/snapback]

 

Seconded. Worked every time for me. WRT rotor magnetism, just put it and the stator back together and tie it in with a bit of string through the centre hole. You can use the same bit of string to hold the whole thing out of the way.

 

This is not brain (or any other kind) of surgery. If you make a mistake, you buy new bits. Having learned something.

 

mike

[jrt]

forget the flywheel crowbar, put it in 5th and have your friend stomp on the foot brake

69692[/snapback]

 

uh, ditto. keep it simple.

 

I would think twice about cutting a hole in the alt cover. It's purpose is to keep the alt clean and a not-quite-sealed rubber bung will let in all sorts of offensive dirt and water. Also, the distance between the cover and the alternator is not that long- a real stopper won't work- it'll hit the alternator then just fall out, thus qualifying you for the coveted Belfast Golden Bodge award. It is outstanding 'guzzithought' though.

[Guest ratchethack]

Isn't it an eagle?

YIKES! Maybe it is. I'd been looking at Hagan's Falcone ads.

 

But Harley has the Eagle...

 

Honda has the Hawk.

 

Yamaha has the tuning forks.

 

Whizzer (who?) had the....well, the whizzer.

 

So what's the "official" species of the Guzzi "goose"?