40mm forks re-sprung -- huge improvement

[Guest jedione68]

Yes, I went with a complete replacement -- Wilbers with remote preload and high & low speed compression damping adjustment.  I'm very pleased with it.

70727[/snapback]

I'm happy with the stocker,

but I'd like to hear and know more about your new Wilbers

rear shock... Always on a quest.

Peace,

Jediout

[beauchemin]

I'm happy with the stocker,

but I'd like to hear and know more about your new Wilbers

rear shock... Always on a quest.

Peace,

Jediout

70734[/snapback]

 

There's not much to say except that the difference is absolutely amazing. I found the OEM Sachs shock to be severely undersprung and overdamped. Others have changed the spring, but the reviews were mixed. I didn't feel like trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, so I replaced it altogether. Re-springing the shock would probably require it to be re-valved as well, and I didn't want to get into that. I think the cost to re-spring and have it re-valved is in the $300 to $400 area.

 

With the Wilbers, I get more compression adjustments, and hydraulic preload (a big plus on this bike since the preload nuts are so hard to get at). The damping adjustments are also quite amazing since they go from zero to almost fully locked in 26 steps.

 

Here is a post with some photos: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5898&hl=

[gh67]

Did you say $2000 bucks?  I did bid low.  That gives me $1865.95

to play with now (Just kidding!).  And on another Ohlins note:

My buddy Jason has the Ohlins (Beautiful) but at our resent track day

found we maxxed them out on COMP and it still wasn't enough.

And one of the suspention Guru's at the track said he'll need to get

stiffer springs and change to a different wght oil.  Hows that for...  Ya know.

70700[/snapback]

 

alrighty buddy, I think all of our jaeger shots after the track day impaired your memory....ha ha. we didn't touch the compression on my R&T forks that day...... Todd just gave a few more clicks of rebound dampening and it worked great for my riding style.

 

In conversation, the professional suspension guy (who's used to tuning actual race bikes) made the comment that the Superbike forks were the only ones out that that truly had enough compression. I doubt there are too many people outside of a circuit who could truly say that a $8000 - $10000 (and that's online prices) Superbike fork is the only thing that can handle their riding. I'm also glad I paid no where near $2000 for my R&T forks. I just wished the damn things weren't gold....messed up my paint scheme....If I ever have them rebuilt, they're getting re-anodized. ha ha.

 

cheers

jason

[Guest ratchethack]

OK, I just did my sag measurements:

 

25mm static (bike only)

40mm dynamic (with rider)

 

I was aiming for 20 and 35.  Not bad for the first iteration!  I think I'll ride it like this for a little while.

70726[/snapback]

Per my post above, this is exactly what I achieved for BOTH sag measurements with shortened spacers. I also decided to ride it for awhile before changing anything, though I will likely add 5 mm preload. You should be able to get very close to your target with 5 mm more preload. One of the things I like best about this fork is that you can quickly and easily change out spacers and springs. It's convenient enough that I can consider changing spacers to add preload for a weekend of mountain riding and switch 'em back afterward.

 

NOTE ON CHASSIS TUNING NAMING CONVENTIONS: Just to head off any further confusion. After a heap of reading on the topic from many sources, the consensus on what to call sag settings seems to land on the terms, "static sag" to refer to rider and gear on board, not moving. "Free sag" refers to no rider/gear on board. I've previously used "laden" and "unladen", which I thought were clear enough, but it seemed that no one here used these terms, and there may have been a misunderstanding, so I changed my use of terms in the hopes of better communication. Dynamic means underway. You can't get this kind of measurement without a chassis dyno, AFAIK. Somebody please chime in if you disagree.

 

EDIT: YIKES! I just read an extensive tech diatribe that uses the terms as defined thusly:

 

- static sag: settling from the weight of the bike alone;

- laden sag: settling from weight of bike and rider (this is the important measurement)

 

So I reckon there isn't a lot of naming convention out there after all - ?

 

I'm going back to "laden" and "unladen" with the idea that this is the most self-explanatory...

[jrt]

We need a dictionary.

 

On the Prius owners group website (www.priuschat.com)- yeah, I'm a geek- anyway, on that website, there is a script so that anytime "ice" is typed, a mouseover comes up with 'internal combustion engine'. We need something like that here.

 

And jedi, don't tempt me with the beers, mkay? I have one a day. Wine? That's another story.

[Guest jedione68]

We need a dictionary. 

 

On the Prius owners group website (www.priuschat.com)- yeah, I'm a geek- anyway, on that website, there is a script so that anytime "ice" is typed, a mouseover comes up with 'internal combustion engine'.  We need something like that here.

 

And jedi, don't tempt me with the beers, mkay?  I have one a day.  Wine?  That's another story.

70769[/snapback]

Lets by pass the beer and go straight to the Vino! Red or white?

I find white is better for wrenching and read better for drawing up

idea's and places to go.

Cheers

Jedi

P.S. Have some "McKay" in me.

[Guest jedione68]

alrighty buddy, I think all of our jaeger shots after the track day impaired your memory....ha ha.  we didn't touch the compression on my R&T forks that day...... Todd just gave a few more clicks of rebound dampening and it worked great for my riding style.

 

In conversation, the professional suspension guy (who's used to tuning actual race bikes) made the comment that the Superbike forks were the only ones out that that truly had enough compression.  I doubt there are too many people outside of a circuit who could truly say that a $8000 - $10000 (and that's online prices) Superbike fork is the only thing that can handle their riding.    I'm also glad I paid no where near $2000 for my R&T forks.    I just wished the damn things weren't gold....messed up my paint scheme....If I ever have them rebuilt, they're getting re-anodized.  ha ha.

 

cheers

jason

70760[/snapback]

GOLD... They aren't gold, if the where gold all our styling issues would be solved.

Ha Ha. Just kidding "J" and sorry about the ribbing.

Jedione-out

[gh67]

GOLD... They aren't gold, if the where gold all our styling issues would be solved.

Ha Ha.  Just kidding "J" and sorry about the ribbing.

Jedione-out

70807[/snapback]

ha ha...no worries...just had to return the shit giving.

[Dan M]

I think we're apart of that little club that would rather fix

something "Outside" the box, rather then slap down a BLACK Amex Card.

I not a cheap person, but when it comes to my bike $$$, it better make it

faster or better and or I could buy a fixer-upper project bike.

 

Also, I think the world in general reads to many Motor Cycle Magizines,

and they always make every middle of the road bike seem not road worthy.

And I always wonder: "Didn't you guys start out riding on Commando's and or

CB500?!"  I mean any bike since 1990 has breaks and forks better than any

one of us could ever possibly hope to ride them to there limits.

 

Anyways, I like TINKERING as much as I like riding.

As we speak, I tore off my Quat-D and am running around on

my old carbon Mistrals.  Cause I'm going to do some R&D on the Quat

to get more BHP... I never give up on the "Garage Hobbit" way of life.

 

Peace, and Happy Holidays to all,

Jedione

70694[/snapback]

 

It is a select group who improve or repair their bikes rather than simply replacing them. What a great resource this board is. I went into this "off season" here in the north with the plan on improving my suspension. I've been searching & reading all of the terrific info here and have just ordered a Wilbers shock from Tod E. (another great resource). Fork springs are next, so keep your notes handy! I'm sure I'll be posting some questions when get that far.

[dlaing]

I'm also glad I paid no where near $2000 for my R&T forks.    I just wished the damn things weren't gold....messed up my paint scheme....If I ever have them rebuilt, they're getting re-anodized.  ha ha.

70760[/snapback]

"No where near $2000"! Hey no fair!

I have lost so much money on this bike:

If I had waited a year, I could have saved $1000 on the price.

Over $2000 for Ohlins because I believed the "experts" that the Marz were crap.

Quat-D and dyno, over $1000.

Now nearly obsolete PCIII $329, because I did not shop around...

Thank God it has been reliable, otherwise the bank would foreclose.

The gold messed up my paint scheme too.

I wanted to try and go retro, with PVM 20 spoke wheels to give it a spoke wheel effect.

Aluminum fenders, aluminum signal lights, and

to make it look more like Carl Allison's Black and Silver(and white) FrankenGuzzi.

But this Ohlins gold just looks modern trick.

I was thinking of putting a carbon fiber overlay over the gold anodizing.

Or maybe neoprene to protect my $2000 plus forks.

But I have no money left for such vanities.

But the gold is a good safety color.

PS, my Marzocchi forks are up for sale at $2000 firm, but you would have to get stiffer springs. After that, it would be firm.

[Guest MikeC]

It is a select group who improve or repair their bikes rather than simply replacing them. What a great resource this board is. I went into this "off season" here in the north with the plan on improving my suspension. I've been searching & reading all of the terrific info here and have just ordered a Wilbers shock from Tod E. (another great resource). Fork springs are next, so keep your notes handy! I'm sure I'll be posting some questions when get that far. 

71016[/snapback]

 

If your looking at doing something with your forks I would highly recommand looking at the following link.

Traxxion

[nuevototem]

Hi to all,

 

I have a lovely V11 sport 2003. I read all this and I want to share my little experience.

 

I am on 82 kilograms = 180 pounds with all equipment.

 

Now I have these settings:

 

Mazzocchi 40mm: SAE 10

EXTENSIÓN: position: 6 (MAX:16)

COMPRESSIÓN: position: 4 (MAX:16)

 

Sach-Boge

EXTENSIÓN: posición:20 (MAX:34)

COMPRESSIÓN: position: 8 (MAX:43) (bottle)

 

I was wandering to change the oil to SAE 7.5 What do u think guys?

Do any have settings like me?

[docc]

N't:

 

Your adjustments may be softer than average. This should give you a nice compliant ride at your weight. I am 175# in gear and run settings at about 70-75% hard.

 

Lighter oil does ease the harsh high speed compression damping which is, otherwise, not adjustable.

 

More importantly will be your 'sag ' measures to set preload. There are many good threads in the 'search' on this. Setting preload is tedious ( rear shock is hard to get to and forks would require new spacers) but well worth it.

[al_roethlisberger]

I was tired of being beaten up by overdamped and undersprung 40mm forks.  Also the brake-dive was terrible.  Here is what I did:

 

1.05 Kg/mm springs (my weight with gear = 90 Kg / 200 lbs)

137mm spacers (which provide 10mm preload)

5 weight suspension fluid

What an amazing difference!  I had a short ride this afternoon and the forks are much more compliant and comfortable -- I can now tackle bumpy corners with ease.  I have both the compression and rebound set to 0 clicks.  The compression feels about right, but the rebound damping will need to be increased.

 

Sorting out the suspension (front and rear) has been the best money spent for this bike.

70608[/snapback]

 

 

Yep, my fronts were setup at 1.05 as well by a suspension shop

 

That seems to be a well recommended setup for the avg grown man + gear on the V11.

[docc]

And the consensus is that the stock springs are 0.70? Or are they 0.90?