dlaing Posted July 25, 2006 Author Posted July 25, 2006 I no longer have a dash or idiot lights on the Guzzi, so I think it might be very simple. SNIP Since I have no sensor lights, I intend to leave all the other wires 'dangle' - capped off. That would mean the white wire from the new regulator and both conectors from the Guzzi (the red/black with blue plus the red/green wire). I am not sure. Maybe the red/black should be connected for feedback through the warning light???? Cap the blue wire leading to the red/green wire, and the 30A fuse in the fuse block will become obsolete. EDIT, what was I thinking?!? There is no blue wire leading to the Red/Green. What I intend to do is simply connect the two yellow wires to the two yellow alternator wires. Good Then run the red and green wires directly to the battery. SNIP I also take it that I will no longer need a 30 amp. fuse in the fuse box. I recommend trimming the red and green wires to maybe eight inches long, and solder it to a 30amp inline fuse, and solder that to a wire maybe one gauge thicker than the red and green wire, and run that directly to the battery. I recommend the wire be RED. EDIT I should have said the Red wire from the Electrosport should idealy be trimmed to a few inches, have inline fuse attached, and then a slightly heavier gauge (preferably red(14gauge???)) to run to the battery. Note that I did blow my inline 30A fuse once since installing the Electrosport regulator. ($100 towing) C. said something about splicing in the Guzzi black ground wire into the new regulator wire. Can't I just connect it to the mount as it was before? I also take it that I will no longer need a 30 amp. fuse in the fuse box. More grounds are more better. I just connected the Guzzi black ground wire and the ElectroSport Green wire to Regulator's mounting bolt. Adding an additional ground there could be a good thing. I tried adding one there temporarily and running it direcly to battery negative post. It did not change the charging rate at all, so I left it off....but it is still a good idea.
Enzo Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 So I don't have to run a ground wire to the negative terminal on the battery at all? I won't have a warning light, so I don't intend to hook up anything else. Your inline fuse sounds good, but I don't like having a fuse I can't replace on the spot. They say you don't need one, so I guess I'm going to take their word on it. So, all I'm gonna do tomorrow is attach the two yellows, the red line to positive on the battery, the green line along with the Guzzi black ground to the mounting bolt and let everything else dangle in the wind. Sound good?
felix42o Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 Careful here, this is where I started to get into trouble...The wires that the instructions say go to the battery need to go to the battery directly. Somethings goofy wrt the original wiring and the way the Electrix units are designed. In the end I think it was yellows to yellows, red and green to pos and neg respectfully. The white's for the light, which you said you don't care about. That red/black was causing all kinds of trouble. I think it ends up just getting capped off. The fuse idea sounds pretty good though, what can it hurt?
Enzo Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 Thanks. Good advice. I'll attach the red line to the positive battery terminal and the green wire to the negative terminal. I might put in an in-line 30 amp fuse and then carry alligator clips if I get stranded with a broken fuse. I don't know. But I think I get it now. The other wires are not important if I don't have a warning light. The damn Italian electrics are weird. I kaint truss it. Thanks me hardies.
dlaing Posted July 25, 2006 Author Posted July 25, 2006 Careful here, this is where I started to get into trouble...The wires that the instructions say go to the battery need to go to the battery directly. Somethings goofy wrt the original wiring and the way the Electrix units are designed. In the end I think it was yellows to yellows, red and green to pos and neg respectfully. The white's for the light, which you said you don't care about. That red/black was causing all kinds of trouble. I think it ends up just getting capped off. The fuse idea sounds pretty good though, what can it hurt? When I tried to use the original line from regulator to battery the voltage was too low (by like 0.2V) until i switched to the positive going directly from regulator to battery (but still passing through inline fuse) Running the ground line directly is a good idea, I just have too many wires to hook up to the battery, and my OEM ground seems fine. What kind of voltage output do you get with your Electrex unit? Since switching from the OEM regulator to the Electrex, my voltage is much better below 2000 RPM but I don't quite get the same peak voltage charge. With the OEM I would peak at something 14.5 Volts (I forget exactly), while the Electrex peaks at somewhere between 13.5 and 13.9V.
Enzo Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 D, Is my idea to ignore all the wires coming from the Guzzi OK if I don't have a warning light?
dlaing Posted July 25, 2006 Author Posted July 25, 2006 D, Is my idea to ignore all the wires coming from the Guzzi OK if I don't have a warning light? You should probably ground the grounding wire somewhere. I think it will be safe to try the regulator with no light. It should be designed such that it does not fail if the bulb burns out, right???
felix42o Posted July 25, 2006 Posted July 25, 2006 The Guzzi guru in Reno (who also told me to "read the f'ing instructions" ) told me the warning light isn't necessary, so I guess it shouldn't matter. I think my Electrix unit was between 13.7 and 14.1, but as for OEM, it was AFU when I purchased the bike in the first place, so I don't know what it was reading prior to.
callison Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Some of the newer Guzzis eschew the alternator light in favor of separate left and right turn signal indicators.
Enzo Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Well, I spent all day spicing wire, getting parts, putting everything together....I ignored the Guzzi lines. I put the red line to the positive, the green to the negative. Connected the two yellow alternator wires. Put in all new GTI relays, checked the fuses, made sure there were no bare wires etc. And everything worked perfectly - except the fuel pump. No power to the fuel pump. No 'loading sound' when you turn on the bike - just silence. The signals, brakes, starter, lights, blinkers, horn....everything else was powered up. I'm wondering if one of those Guzzi lines needs to be spliced into the regulator red wire. I noticed under relay #7 (the problem one) that there is a red/black wire. I also noticed that one of the Guzzi wires going to the old regulator was also red/black. Could it be that this wire has to be spiced into my new red power wire? I'm totally bummed out.
Enzo Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 No, that didn't work. I used a long wire and attached it to the battery and then touched all the open wires and got nothing. What bothers me is that the old regulator had like 6 wires coming out of it and this one only has 5. One of them is a useless indicator light. It seems to simple. It seems to me that the fuel pump needs to be fired up by one of these wires - but which one? Do I have the wrong regulator?
Enzo Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 OK, after thinking a few minutes I have a new theory. On a stock bike, the white wire goes back to the dash as a warning light. Perhaps it is routed from there to supply the fuel pump. Could that be? I just can't figure out why the pump has no juice suddenly.
felix42o Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Did you re-hook all the wires back to the battery stack-up? I missed the fuel pump one once or twice, 'cause it's hard to see coming up from the bottom like it does.
dlaing Posted July 26, 2006 Author Posted July 26, 2006 The three more obvious possibilities: 1) you needed the original ground wire grounded to the regulator body and mounting bolt. 2) The white wire needs to go to the blue wire. I believe the warning light theoretically activates when there is a significant difference in voltage between the blue line (regulator) and black/red line (battery) When you turn on your key the voltage is higher at the battery than the regulator so, the light activates. Oddly I did not see my light light when my fuse blew. Perhaps the white wire could connect directly to the red/black without a light in between??? Or it may damage the regulator... If the blue line and bulb are gone, try it with an indicator light inbetween the white wire and the red/black and see if the pump then works. I guess I could try disconnecting my white wire to see if it still works. 3) Or the worst possibilty....something is wrong with the system that caused the initial failure and you need to find and repair it. ...I spent three months blaming my ECU, but never found the definitive reason for the failure of the regulator AND battery....but a new battery seemed to fix my problem. Did you re-hook all the wires back to the battery stack-up? I missed the fuel pump one once or twice, 'cause it's hard to see coming up from the bottom like it does. I suspect I may have toasted my fuse by leaving one of the battery wires loose.
Enzo Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 D. Would please try unplugging your white wire coming out of your regulator and see if the bike will still start? That will give me a place to start. Thanks. E.
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