callison Posted December 26, 2005 Posted December 26, 2005 HERE IS WHAT I DON'T KNOW The only male socket I could find was the socket no.1 of the pic. The question IS ( do you hear Callison? should I plug in the socket 1 to socket 2? Happy Christmas to everybody. 71813[/snapback] Plug it in. I don't know why that one is unplugged but it does go to the LED. I've never used the LED code indicator though, so I'm not much help beyond just telling you to plug it in - mainly to keep moisture out of the connector. There is one reasonably simple thing to do to see if there's any major difference. You can swap the oil temp sensor and the air type sensor on this series of bikes because they're the same. One (air) is in the fairing to the left of the headlight and the oil temp sensor is on the left valve cover. Be careful with the screws on the valve cover, you might wind up stripping the hole. I haven't looked in a very long time, but I think the screws securing the oil temp sensor protrude from the side of the valve cover and if there's any crud on the screws or the threads are compromised, you can easily strip the threads out of those tiny screw holes.
Alex-Corsa Posted December 26, 2005 Author Posted December 26, 2005 Plug it in. I don't know why that one is unplugged but it does go to the LED. I've never used the LED code indicator though, so I'm not much help beyond just telling you to plug it in - mainly to keep moisture out of the connector. Thanks for your answer. In my parts book seems to be the same way, It was the workshp manual's pics that appear it to be a biit different. The diagnose female socket is always pluged in with a cover so no moisture gets there. the unpluged is the other sort circuited socket and it doesn't seem to have problem since a)doen't lead anywhere.B)I ussually cover it with some strong tape. There is one reasonably simple thing to do to see if there's any major difference. You can swap the oil temp sensor and the air type sensor on this series of bikes because they're the same. One (air) is in the fairing to the left of the headlight and the oil temp sensor is on the left valve cover. Yep these sensors are the same and what will then happen if the air sensor is OK and the Oil (swapped to the air's position isn't?) But anyway I'll order 2 new ones (just to have some spares.) Be careful with the screws on the valve cover, you might wind up stripping the hole. I haven't looked in a very long time, but I think the screws securing the oil temp sensor protrude from the side of the valve cover and if there's any crud on the screws or the threads are compromised, you can easily strip the threads out of those tiny screw holes. Yep I have stripped the threads already, sometime ago . I am thinking I'll have to replace the whole cover along with the sensor since I think there is no way of makining a new small thread,or if I could fill in the hole with that special liquid metal glue that stands temprature.
callison Posted December 26, 2005 Posted December 26, 2005 Yep these sensors are the same and what will then happen if the air sensor is OK and the Oil (swapped to the air's position isn't?) But anyway I'll order 2 new ones (just to have some spares.)71871[/snapback] I can't tell you what the difference if any there would be by swapping the units, but if one really is bad, there should be some difference since they affect different parts of the map. The little buggers aren't cheap either. Actually, you can just hook an ohm meter on the contacts and blow some hot air on the sensor and see if it changes. If it doesn't, it's bad. If you want to go the the lengths of checking it for accuracy, I think the owners manual or shop manual give some resistance figures by temperature. Being the cheap recalcitrant luddite that I am, I'd check them out that way before shelling out for another set. Also, my Sport 1100i has only gone about 200 miles in nearly three years! It runs like crap between idle and 6000 rpm. I have change every sensor, the ecu and so forth with little to no effect. At this point I strongly suspect that the timing chain is the culprit because it may be too slack with 58,000 miles on it. Just thought I'd mention that in case you're up in the miles department.
Alex-Corsa Posted December 26, 2005 Author Posted December 26, 2005 Also, my Sport 1100i has only gone about 200 miles in nearly three years! It runs like crap between idle and 6000 rpm. I have change every sensor, the ecu and so forth with little to no effect. At this point I strongly suspect that the timing chain is the culprit because it may be too slack with 58,000 miles on it. Just thought I'd mention that in case you're up in the miles department. Except this Fuel consump.problem , mine runs O.K. The timming chain (you mean this chain with the sprockets that move the camshaft , right?) has to be changed depending it's condition, usually it gets a bit noisy when is due to be changed. I have to take a look at mine, it isn't noisy but it will be sometime I think.
Alex-Corsa Posted August 18, 2006 Author Posted August 18, 2006 You on't hve to reply to this , just updating . The problem HAS BEN fixed loong time ago, just forgot to update Thanks Carl , Mtiberio , dlaing ,and every who responded offering some help about it. Yep It was the air temp sensor that was broken and caused the mess with high fuel consumption....
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