Breaking in new tires

[bigbikerrick]

I had quite a scare yesterday, a friend of mine who is quite a skilled sportbike rider took a spill on his 2004 R6 after we put on a new dunlop 208 on the back. we left my garage and on the first turn, going maybe 10 mph I watched him in front of me as his rear end slid out,into a lowside ,then flopped back into a highside and hit the pavement. The damage to the r6 is substantial, the frame slider on the right fairing took the hit,and since the bolt threads into the frame then the engine cylinder head, it put a 3" long crack on the cam chain side of the motor and oil came pouring out, fairing ,front master cylinder ,and tailpiece suffered significant damage as well as the mirrors,footpegs,and pipe. It was incredible how easily that back tire slid out from under him. I know that new tires need to be ridden very carefully for about 100 miles or so, Im wondering is there a way to remove the mold release coating on new tires before riding, such as sandpaper, or wiping down with some sort of solvent? I put new tires on my wifes magna,and a new front metz Z 6 on my v 11 the same day, now im kind of paranoid about the new tires...this friend of mine is really skilled on a sportbike and easily does wheelies in the first three gears at 70 mph I couldnt believe how easily he went down on clean ,dry pavement on that new tire.

[g.forrest]

ridem easy whenthere new, preferably out onya own.

[Guest Nogbad]

Can't think of a good way of removing the slippery skin of a new tyre. It sounds as if the power applied rather than the corner speed was the problem, especially with the tyre cold. If you had just left your garage, not only was the tyre new, but it hadn't warmed up either. Goes to show no matter how skilled and experienced you are, a moments inattention or overconfidence can bin your bike.

 

You need about 200 miles on a new tyre before it is at its best, more if it's cold and wet when you break it in.

[v50man]

Dunlop D208's -- is it any wonder? Seriously, though -- one way of getting rid of that coating is to spray the ENTIRE tire with an emulsifying solution like Westley's Bleche-White -- let it sit a couple minutes -- then rinse it off and ride away SLOWLY. Not scientific, but it's always worked for me.

[Guest Nogbad]

Dunlop D208's -- is it any wonder?  Seriously, though -- one way of getting rid of that coating is to spray the ENTIRE tire with an emulsifying solution like Westley's Bleche-White -- let it sit a couple minutes -- then rinse it off and ride away SLOWLY.  Not scientific, but it's always worked for me.

72232[/snapback]

 

What is in this stuff? Not that we are likely to have anything decent in a cleaner in Europe. They are about to ban anything that can't be proved harmless.

 

It always used to amuse me to see all the snake oil anti rust products on sale describing themselves as "harmless" and "non-toxic". I could never work out how something that couldn't destroy human tissue would have half a chance against rust.......

[v50man]

What is in this stuff? Not that we are likely to have anything decent in a cleaner in Europe. They are about to ban anything that can't be proved harmless.

 

It always used to amuse me to see all the snake oil anti rust products on sale describing themselves as "harmless" and "non-toxic". I could never work out how something that couldn't destroy human tissue would have half a chance against rust.......

72237[/snapback]

 

I'll look it up (on the bottle) when I get home tonight and post it...

[v50man]

Westley's® Bleche-Wite®

 

* The best name on the market for cleaning tire blackwalls and whitewalls

* Easy-to-use formula

* Blasts away road grime and brake dust on contact

* Dominating category growth leader

 

Available Size: 20 fl. oz. pump Stock Number: 500

Available Size: 32 fl. oz. trigger Stock Number: 555 - Pictured

Available Size: 64 fl. oz. bottle Stock Number: 550R

Available Size: 1 gal. bottle Stock Number: 5128D

Available Size: 1 gal. conc. bottle Stock Number: 500G

 

From their website...

[Murray]

Acorrding to Bridgestone there is no realese compound on the tyre nor is there a preserving agent its just rubber I'm taking a bit of a leap but I would suggest other manufacturers are the same. However striaght out of the mould they are very very smooth. Crude technique little burnout or get a brick and rub tyre. Usually they do not only need roughing up but also a heat cycle or two. The other suggesting would be bung a set of tyre warmers on for 10-20mins and maybe rung the preasure a little lower than you normally would.

[Greg Field]

I use an angle grinder and abrasive flap wheel to lightly rough 'em up and take off the nubbins and slippery stuff.

 

Normally, I'm dead against law-suits, but the truth is, too many of us have been injured and killed by this shit and it has to stop. The only way it's gonna stop is if one of us sues the manufacturers and distributors and whoever else sprays tires with slippery shit in order to preserve them. Tires, especially tires for powerful sport bikes, should be clean and sticky when they leave the factory and warehouse.

[v50man]

I use an angle grinder and abrasive flap wheel to lightly rough 'em up and take off the nubbins and slippery stuff.

 

Normally, I'm dead against law-suits, but the truth is, too many of us have been injured and killed by this shit and it has to stop. The only way it's gonna stop is if one of us sues the manufacturers and distributors and whoever else sprays tires with slippery shit in order to preserve them. Tires, especially tires for powerful sport bikes, should be clean and sticky when they leave the factory and warehouse.

72250[/snapback]

 

Then get ready to pay even more for tires. Shorter shelf life + litigation = more $$$.

 

Like everything in life -- a trade-off...

[Guest ratchethack]

I use an angle grinder and abrasive flap wheel to lightly rough 'em up and take off the nubbins and slippery stuff.

 

Normally, I'm dead against law-suits, but the truth is, too many of us have been injured and killed by this shit and it has to stop. The only way it's gonna stop is if one of us sues the manufacturers and distributors and whoever else sprays tires with slippery shit in order to preserve them. Tires, especially tires for powerful sport bikes, should be clean and sticky when they leave the factory and warehouse.

72250[/snapback]

I'm with you, Greg. I put the bike on the stand, scrub 'em with lacquer thinner on a clean shop towel, and hit 'em with a 60-grit belt sander until the whole contact surface is uniformly roughed-up. Takes all the squirrelly histrionics right out of 'em.

[jrt]

I usually take a short ride on a dirt road. Same effect as the sandpaper, but at least I get to ride.

[Guest Nogbad]

I think the abovementioned accident may have less to do with the new tyre, and more to do with the very common "hot head - cold tyre" combination. However, a new smooth tyre wouldn't help.

[Martin Barrett]

When I get my new tyres the man always gives me warnings to take it easy even on warm days (he says they're worse).

 

I had mine on for a couple of days, less than a 100miles and had the back end step out after just setting out. leaving my street on to the larger road through the estate. About 100yds travelled done a "s" bend and was just turning right out of the "T" The road was a bit damp and there is a building site in my street so there could have been a bit of additional grease/mud. coupled with perhaps a bit much go in order to make the gap in traffic. Felt like it stepped out into the next county shut the throttle, pick it up and steer in instictively, Heart dives into stomach. So it's easily done

[Ouiji Veck]

I manage to get sideways a few times a year but oddly enough never because

of a new tire. I'll do alot of weaving to get the sides scuffed and be judicious with the throttle and jump on a gravel road if I see one....the back tire is not the problem.

On second thought I guess it was in this case. Thats some serious damage for 10mph.

Too bad...Your friend has my sympathy. He musta grabbed a handful of that R6