oil filter

[Guest davindav]

My first oil change with a new V11 and I can't get the oil filter loose. I 've tried two different wrenches fitted on the end of the filter--they don't seem to grip the filter tightly enough. Ive pushed the wrench all the way, but it just turns without budging the filter. Any ideas?

[Guest ratchethack]

You can drop the sump, which gives you an opp. to clean out the accumulated sludge in the sump and contemplate whatever's washed-up on the pickup screen. Then you have full access to the filter with a strap-wrench, chain-wrench, or alternative if necessary. OR,

 

You can punch an open needle-nose pliers into the end of the filter and use the handles to spin it off.

 

If you haven't checked the sump yet, it might be a good idea.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[richard100t]

Those filters come welded on from the factory. The main thing is remove the oilpan & get the filter clean & dry. Once you do that get an adjustable wrench & have at it. There are usually several types of wrenches & such @ your local auto parts store. If all else fails use the screwdriver & hammer method.

[jrt]

That's pretty common actually. I think you'll find dropping the pan is the easiest course of action. I personally prefer to drop the pan when I do an oil filter change because 1) it's easy to do (16 bolts or so) and 2) you can check the pan for metal flakes, bits of gasket sealant, etc and 3) I can't ever get the damn filter off either.

 

 

edit- ha! richard beat me to it!

[edge]

I would drop the pan being your first oil change on the bike. With the pan off filter removal will be no issue. The other benifit of droping the pan is to allow you to make sure Luigi has not left anything behind in your new bike and to clean out any sediment from the pan bottom. You should be able to reuse the original gasket if you are carfull when lowering the pan to ensure nothing gets hung or fouled in the process. You can do a search here re. pan removal, there is much collective wisdom, especially on the new bikes. Some do it every change too.

 

I would caution you on the old screw driver through the filter while the pan is on due to the potential of damaging threads on the manhole cover or a scavenge line on the inside. With the pan off you get to see the internals too.

 

hope it helps,

[Guest davindav]

I would drop the pan being your first oil change on the bike.  With the pan off filter removal will be no issue.  The other benifit of droping the pan is to allow you to make sure Luigi has not left anything behind in your new bike and to clean out any sediment from the pan bottom.  You should be able to reuse the original gasket if you are carfull when lowering the pan to ensure nothing gets hung or fouled in the process.  You can do a search here re. pan removal, there is much collective wisdom, especially on the new bikes.  Some do it every change too. 

 

I would caution you on the old screw driver through the filter while the pan is on due to the potential of damaging threads on the manhole cover or a scavenge line on the inside.  With the pan off you get to see the internals too.

 

hope it helps, 

72516[/snapback]

Could you give some detail on the oil pan removal? I did not find anything through a search, is there a chance I'd need a new gasket, the dealer is quite a ways--anything else I'd need?

David

[edge]

Could you give some detail on the oil pan removal?  I did not find anything through a search, is there a chance I'd need a new gasket, the dealer is quite a ways--anything else I'd need? 

David

72518[/snapback]

 

There is always a chance but if this is the first time off, you should have no issues, as long as you are gentle witht he let-down. Going back on with the old will be fine with a very light coat of oil to the clean faces. About a dozen allen head bolts and an oil line on the rear of the pan are all that need to be removed to drop the pan. Careful not to over torque the allen bolts on assembly due to the alloy case.

 

Here are a few threads:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...028entry61028

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=5996&st=15

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...topic=264&st=15

[Ouiji Veck]

I got my LeMans in April....Immediately did an oil change. By the time I got the filter

off (2 1/2 hrs. and 3 wreches) I wanted to sell it. Thought it was a bad omen.

(It took about 2 months and a trip to Nova Scotia before I finally decided it's the

best bike in the world, no matter all the teething problems... and they're just that.)

 

Anyway...I did have to resort to the "drop the pan...put a screwdiver through the filter)

method" It shure made me feel like crap. It was a right of passage...Ya gotta think

"tractor" and "ditch pump" with these things.

Needless to say I now don't torque the filter on too tight...nor the allens on the pan.

I always wonder about the "manhole cover" too. Tight....but not too tight.

Could you imagine that thing falling out! (Cold shiver down my spine!!)

Anyone ever lose one? Wonder if it could be safety wired?

[DeBenGuzzi]

I always wonder about the "manhole cover" too. Tight....but not too tight.

Could you imagine that thing falling out! (Cold shiver down my spine!!)

Anyone ever lose one? Wonder if it could be safety wired?

72531[/snapback]

what exactly are you talking about? I might be doing my own oil changes soon then I might know but now I can't figure out what youre talking about.

[edge]

what exactly are you talking about? I might be doing my own oil changes soon then I might know but now I can't figure out what youre talking about. 

72532[/snapback]

 

The large 4-5" sump drain on the bottom of the sump. Allows for oil filter access and rapid oil removal

[Steve G.]

Oil changes on these things are really quite simple guys. I'm not sure what the trouble is. With the correct tools, namely an 8 furrel filter wrench [for the oil filter], and a 1 1/16" [or metric equivalent] bolt and a couple nuts for said bolt [for the removal of the filter access cover through the oil pan.

If you are using the factory UFI filters, an 8 furrel wrench is needed. If you are using a Fram or some other kind of filter, you must check to see how many furrels [flat areas around the end of the filter] the filter has, and make sure the filter wrench has the same amount. I can tell you that Fram filters have more than 8.

The bolt is quite simple. the head of the 1 1/16" bolt fits into the spot where one might think you have to use a bloody huge allen key [hex wrench]. I think you will find buying a bolt and 2 nuts much much cheaper than buying a massive 1 1/16" [or metric equivalent] allen wrench. So, spin the two nuts onto the other ends, and crank them together real tight so they won't spin. There you have it, a 1 1/16" socket and ratchet, the cover spins off with ease.

To tell you the truth, the biggest worry and chance for serious bodge up, is to cross thread the extremely fine threads while spinning the cover back onto the bottom of the oil pan. That will be an expensive fix if this is done!

Oh, and putting in shit oil is not smart either!

Ciao, Steve G.

[Ouiji Veck]

Steve...the trouble is "over tightened"

I "BROKE" 3....count 'em 3 ..oil filter wrences...by the time I got the filter

off it was like a crushed up beer can...

Whoever put it on either over tightened it or didn't oil the rubber gasket..or both.

It was Sttuuuuck... Not the first I've herd of it either.

That was several changes ago and haven't nor expect to see it again.

[DeBenGuzzi]

Oh, and putting in shit oil is not smart either!

                                                                      Ciao, Steve G.

72540[/snapback]

 

 

isn't oil, oil? I got the wesson out and I've put in a few bottles but I still can't see the oil through the hole yet any help?

[dlaing]

isn't oil, oil? I got the wesson out and I've put in a few bottles but I still can't see the oil through the hole yet any help?

72546[/snapback]

I would not put anything less than colavita in mine.

But you'd be much better off with course filtered extra extra extra virgin cold pressed from north of marin, but south of Mt Shasta.

MMMmmmmm, now that I think about, isn't extra virgin olive green the perfect bike color?

With a pomodoro marinara red frame, and Chianti anodized billet pieces!

[Frenchbob]

You shouldn't need a new gasket for the sump pan if you follow the recommendations here to take it off [and I would do that if the filter won't come off easily the normal way, through the "hatch"].

 

Be careful, however, that the holes for the allen screws don't have gasket goop in them. Check this before tightening them on a used gasket, because the clearances at the bottom of the holes are minimal and if there's any goop in there [there was on my 2002 from the factory build!] you'll crack the casing with hydraulic pressure when you tighten it up. It's been done!

 

In principle, thgough, this is a simple job, and a new bike shouldn't have the build quality problems my 2002 had. And you shouldn't have to drop the sump next time.

 

Oil should be highest quality fully synthetic; European recommendation is for 5W40 Agip.

 

Bon courage.