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Oil change question


bigbikerrick

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at what mileage do you folks recommend the oil be changed on our v 11 sports using dino oil? I use castrol gtx 20/50 in mine and a wal mart super tech oil filter. Is it recommended to change the filter at every oil change or every other oil change? my goose has 7000 miles,and Its ridden pretty easy. I last adjusted my valves at 3500 miles, when should I do them again(world specs) I trust the recommendations of the members of this forum way more than any stinkin' manual! :):rasta:

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Guest ratchethack
at what mileage do you folks recommend the oil be changed on our v 11 sports using dino oil?

Rick, I also use GTX 20/50 dino. The stuff is cheap. I change it out every 3K mi.

a wal mart super tech oil filter. 

My choice also. Cheap and tests out with the best, but let's not start anything here... <_<-_-

Is it recommended to change the filter at every oil change or every other oil change?

The Oracle of Bungendore opines that every other oil change is too often, but I do it anyway, just 'cause it's a habit that can't hurt anything, IMHO, and again - the Wally World ST 3614 is cheap. I don't see any need to drop the sump any more often than about 10K, or if I get a suspicion that sumpin' needs eyeballing...(ain't happened yet), whichever comes first.

I last adjusted my valves at 3500 miles, when should I do them again(world specs)

I do 'em every 10K, and my choice is .006" and .008", will go .005" and .007" next.

I trust the recommendations of the members of this forum way more than any stinkin' manual! :)  :rasta:

Me, too. I figure Guys who've been crackin' open Guzzi cases professionally for decades generally know better than a factory publications committee, where bean-counters and the cheapest lawyers money can buy calculate the lowest-risk corporate CYA strategy for the service intervals & recommended fluids, etc. <_< Discretion is always wise, but the opinions of the Pro's tend to rise to the top o' the heap on Forums. :luigi:

 

BAA, TJM, & YMM slightly, but not appreciably V

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I would agree with Murray. They not only built it, they designed the thing.

Oil changes and oil quality can have a big effect on engine life. Right now there is an engine at the local dealer which did not receive the quality of oil it deserved, and the engine is now #@$&@#@. Clean synthetic, and this engine would still be in the bike.

Non synthetic oil, maximum 2000 kms.

Save money at the front, pay up at the back, that's what they say. If you are generally a short term owner, someone who flips bikes/cars often, then go ahead put Walmart crap in it. If you are a long term owner like me, use good stuff.

Ciao, Steve G.

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Guest golden goose

I used to think that it didn't matter so much what oil you used, but how often you changed it. That changed on my 3rd oil change in my BMW K100. I tried Spectro dino juice. Expensive. But as soon as I started it, I changed my philosophy. Even when hot, I could no longer hear the cam chain buzzing in it. Nine years ago, I stopped buying Spectro in case lots and bought my first 55 gallon drum of 10/40. BMW recommendes 20/50. The BMW, using the wrong oil now has over 350k miles on the motor and the cases have never been cracked, and I have just a few pounds below factory compression. Spectro is high shear strength oil designed for use in combined engine/transmission wet clutch designs. So if it shouldn't be used in normal automotive applications, I offer up my 93 T-Bird with a 5.0 HO at 230k miles. Still doesn't burn oil after 13 years. I use it in my 02 Lemans, and suffer only some minor smoke at high revs. Bike has 25k miles and original compression. Burns a little, but this bike is also supposed to use a 50 wt blend. Just took delivery of my 3rd 55gal drum of Spectro 10/40. BMW packages this oil and recommends only non-synthetic 10/40 in my new K1200S. I change every 2k miles in everything I use it in. What is the least expensive moving part you can replace in your motor? The oil.

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Rick, I also use GTX 20/50 dino.  The stuff is cheap.  I change it out every 3K mi.

My choice also.  Cheap and tests out with the best, but let's not start anything here... <_ src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_sleep.png" alt="-_-">

 

The Oracle of Bungendore opines that every other oil change is too often, but I do it anyway, just 'cause it's a habit that can't hurt anything, IMHO, and again - the Wally World ST 3614 is cheap.  I don't see any need to drop the sump any more often than about 10K, or if I get a suspicion that sumpin' needs eyeballing...(ain't happened yet), whichever comes first.

 

I do 'em every 10K, and my choice is .006" and .008", will go .005" and .007" next.

 

Me, too.  I figure Guys who've been crackin' open Guzzi cases professionally for decades generally know better than a factory publications committee, where bean-counters and the cheapest lawyers money can buy calculate the best corporate CYA strategy for what goes into the manual. <_ discretion is always wise but the opinions of pro tend to rise top o heap on forums. src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_luigi.gif" alt=":luigi:">

 

BAA, TJM, & YMM slightly, but not appreciably V

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Thanks ratchethack, exactly the type of common sense information I was looking for. You are a true asset to this forum! :thumbsup:

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I would agree with Murray. They not only built it, they designed the thing.

Oil changes and oil quality can have a big effect on engine life. Right now there is an engine at the local dealer which did not receive the quality of oil it deserved, and the engine is now #@$&@#@. Clean synthetic, and this engine would still be in the bike.

Non synthetic oil, maximum 2000 kms.

Save money at the front, pay up at the back, that's what they say. If you are generally a short term owner, someone who flips bikes/cars often, then go ahead put Walmart crap in it. If you are a long term owner like me, use good stuff.

                                                                      Ciao, Steve G.

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Steve, do you know what brand/grade of oil was in the bike at the dealer with the engine that went to crap? I thought that with our low tech "Briggs and stratton water pump" engines our bikes have ( as peter roper calls them) a decent dino oil is fine. by wall mart crap, are you referring to the oil filters? I thought the wally oil filters (made by champion labs) were rated very well...

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I used to think that it didn't matter so much what oil you used, but how often you changed it.  That changed on my 3rd oil change in my BMW K100.  I tried Spectro dino juice.  Expensive.  But as soon as I started it, I changed my philosophy.  Even when hot, I could no longer hear the cam chain buzzing in it.  Nine years ago, I stopped buying Spectro in case lots and bought my first 55 gallon drum of 10/40.  BMW recommendes 20/50.  The BMW, using the wrong oil now has over 350k miles on the motor and the cases have never been cracked, and I have just a few pounds below factory compression.  Spectro is high shear strength oil designed for use in combined engine/transmission wet clutch designs.  So if it shouldn't be used in normal automotive applications, I offer up my 93 T-Bird with a 5.0 HO at 230k miles.  Still doesn't burn oil after 13 years.  I use it in my 02 Lemans, and suffer only some minor smoke at high revs.  Bike has 25k miles and original compression.  Burns a little, but this bike is also supposed to use a 50 wt blend.  Just took delivery of my 3rd 55gal drum of Spectro 10/40.  BMW packages this oil and recommends only non-synthetic 10/40 in my new K1200S.  I change every 2k miles in everything I use it in.  What is the least expensive moving part you can replace in your motor?  The oil.

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Ive always heard the golden spectro is a great oil, sounds like you have proved it by your own experience . as the saying goes...." the proof is in the pudding" :D

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Guest Nogbad
BAA, TJM, & YMM slightly, but not appreciably V

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I'm now so intrigued I just have to ask you WTF you are on about with these abbreviations if you can excuse my ignorance.......

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Guest ratchethack
I'm now so intrigued I just have to ask you WTF you are on about with these abbreviations if you can excuse my ignorance.......

Why certainly, Nog. Thank you for noticing, & NTAA (no trouble at all). -_-

 

An acronym or three caps off a Forum whinge quite nicely, don't you think? Nice use of WTF, BTW. :grin:

 

BAA = but as always

 

TJM = that's just me

 

YMMV = your mileage may vary

 

;)

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Oil changes and oil quality can have a big effect on engine life.

That's for sure and would be really stupid to try how the other side is,

Ichange my oil in aprox. every 2700-3K miles tops,I use either Motul V300 competition 15-50 or the Rock Oil 15-50 also full synthetic and ONLY Full synth,

and as a result the engine is in excellent condition.

Yep the last time I opened it having an already 66+K km is was in excellent condition,..pheeeww :)

 

Therefore because of frequent changes I change oil filter every 3rd oil change (about 8-9K miles tops)

Or when (IF) I change the brand of the oil I'll use(regardless the miles)

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