Guest Aaron Bard Posted January 16, 2006 Posted January 16, 2006 It may work but it wouldn’t be any cheaper. We don’t have the quantities to roll the appropriate thickness shim so you still need to bore a precise hole and turn the outside down appropriately. I think People have become disconnected from what it costs to actually make something. When you by a flashlight from Target for $5 it is because you are one of the first humans to touch it and there are about 500,000 others just like it. Even the people who load the machines are too expensive for it to be made anywhere other then China. The prototype flashlight was however made in the US and cost no less then 100,000 to produce. When my team at work builds a Prototype system of less complexity then a motorcycle, it costs the customer 5million. Sorry to go on a tirade I just want folks to appreciate the bargains that we have become accustomed to.
Anthony Posted January 16, 2006 Author Posted January 16, 2006 It may work but it wouldn’t be any cheaper. We don’t have the quantities to roll the appropriate thickness shim so you still need to bore a precise hole and turn the outside down appropriately... 74622[/snapback] I am good for two sets (4 pieces). What are the latest price breaks, if any? Once the price schedule is posted there is no reason why we couldn't send it, and pictures, to our local dealer and see if they are interested in buying 5 or 10 sets. I have two places in mind. I just spent ~$59.00 ($22.40/side + $6 delivery) on a set of Guzzi shims, not to mention the 3 months I spent searching/waiting for the parts. These pieces will blow-out, again, and then I'll be back in search/wait mode, again. The OE gasket is going to fail and anyone with a MY2003+ bike will experience the problem. When mine blew out, I was more than 200 miles away from home. I still don't know if I have any valve damage. I am expecting it because I was going >95 mph when the back pressure was lost. A lower price per unit would be great, but a permanent replacement is worth the peace of mind of it, and keeping worse things from happening. There is enough stuff that can go wrong out there already. Cheers everyone. I haven't seen any more winter riding postings. What's up with that?
Mike Stewart Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 Since it was raining today, I found time to address my front crossover rattle issue. I purchased a length of 1.5" outside diameter aluminum .125" wall tubing (1.250" inside diameter), and did some carefull measurements of the crossover and header pipes. I chucked up the tubing in my lathe and machined up some sleeves to replace the factory seals. Just had to bore the ID out .020" and then .085" off the outer diameter. Cut the sleeve to length, added the slit and I now have a sleeve that will out last the factory one. The header pipes where the sleeves go into must be inlarged back to the stock size. Mine were under 1.38" from being over tightened when trying to get rid of the awful rattling noise. I found a deep socket that measured 1.414 in diameter and used a hammer to gently tap the socket in the header pipe to spread the clamp area. The sleeves fit snugly in the headerpipes and the crossover fits snug into the sleeves. Not much torque is needed to make the pipe solid. Now I just need time to install it and try it out Mike
Guest Aaron Bard Posted January 21, 2006 Posted January 21, 2006 Now I just need time to install it and try it out Mike Looks good Mike! If you try it out for a few weeks and it seems secure, would you be willing to make some sets for the folks interested in my coupler?
Mike Stewart Posted January 21, 2006 Posted January 21, 2006 Installation went well, took only 30 min. to install the header pipe assy. Went to crank up the bike and the battery was dead (bike has sat for 4 months since my accident). The bike is now on the charger, probably time to replace the battery. Hopefully in a few days, I can take her for a ride. Mike Looks good Mike!If you try it out for a few weeks and it seems secure, would you be willing to make some sets for the folks interested in my coupler? 75156[/snapback]
Bill Hagan Posted January 23, 2006 Posted January 23, 2006 I made the fist seven sets of couplers a year and a half ago when my crossover went floppy. Six others on the forum agreed to buy sets as well, helping offset the cost of my set. The price is driven by the small production quantities and the high precision necessary to make the part seal against the ball. Because of my job I have a good relationship with many shops and was able to get an excellent price for this part. The only hope I see for reducing the cost substantially would be to install the stainless coupler on one side while using the original gasket on the other. The coupler should limit the movement of the crossover and the resulting wear on the original gasket. Chime in if you would be interested in the one side solution at more or less half price. I have not yet obtained new quotes for the part but I can’t imagine the cost will go down. I will post the lowest Quote when I get it. 73146[/snapback] Can't imagine how I missed this thread as this issue has been driving nuts (well, not curtailed that process, anyway!) for some time. Even have the front crossover off and sitting on my office desk to remind me to look for options today. To show you how neanderthalic my thinking is, was thinking about cutting up a soft-drink can as a shim! Now that I see how sophisticated others here are, I think I'll stick to riding and detailing, leaving thinking to the pros here. Seriously, I am in. Not sure at what level, but am committed to supporting the fix. Am also grateful to those of you out there who have the know-how and passion to make this sort of thing happen. Bill
Martin Barrett Posted January 23, 2006 Posted January 23, 2006 To show you how neanderthalic my thinking is, was thinking about cutting up a soft-drink can as a shim! Now that I see how sophisticated others here are, I think I'll stick to riding and detailing, leaving thinking to the pros here. Bill 75467[/snapback] I went down the Coke can route last year - my bodging thread - it failed. I tried to use it as a bandage and the clamps got in the way. I also tried improvised gaskets using wire wool and plumpers putty. I wonder if I would have had better results with a Pepsi can ?
Bill Hagan Posted January 23, 2006 Posted January 23, 2006 I went down the Coke can route last year - my bodging thread - it failed. I tried to use it as a bandage and the clamps got in the way. I also tried improvised gaskets using wire wool and plumpers putty.I wonder if I would have had better results with a Pepsi can ? 75471[/snapback] Great minds? Oh well, mebbe I had subliminal memories of that. As for a Pepsi can, this is Atlanta, after all, and I live a block from Asa Candler's mansion, so Pepsi just won't do, http://www.cr.nps.gov/nr/travel/atlanta/inm.htm. Actually, I had a beer can in mind; seemed the right thing. Two more quick points. Reading the blodger thread made me google the "Jubilee clip." http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/to...1094503,00.html Thought that might be the origin, but this confirmed it. Still made me wonder if some bodger invented it as a last minute fix for some need just before HRH arrived to open the festivities. And, you may be pleased to know that, while I await getting the U/V bracket to connect the rear crossover and frame http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7039, I did get under there last night with a pair of pliers and a coathanger. Not pretty, but I felt proud.
Skeeve Posted January 25, 2006 Posted January 25, 2006 Looks good Mike!If you try it out for a few weeks and it seems secure, would you be willing to make some sets for the folks interested in my coupler? 75156[/snapback] My only caveat would be to make it out of copper, instead of aluminum, due to it's higher melting point [we are talking about exhaust connectors, here! ]
Mike Stewart Posted January 26, 2006 Posted January 26, 2006 I dont think the aluminum will be a problem, what are pistons made of? Mike My only caveat would be to make it out of copper, instead of aluminum, due to it's higher melting point [we are talking about exhaust connectors, here! ] 75816[/snapback]
Skeeve Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 I dont think the aluminum will be a problem, what are pistons made of? Mike 75859[/snapback] Pistons get oil & air circulating against them, as well as piston rings against the cylinder walls to conduct heat away. Anyway, I was more concerned about the heat & exhaust gasses maybe leading to excessive decomposition of the aluminum [esp. when placed in contact w/ a dissimilar metal] Copper has a long history in plumbing [which is what all that exhaust piping amounts to anyway] - aluminum doesn't, even after it became cheaper than copper. Just throwin' it out there, not saying I would turn up my nose to an Al piece!
Guest Aaron Bard Posted January 28, 2006 Posted January 28, 2006 Anyway, I was more concerned about the heat & exhaust gasses maybe leading to excessive decomposition of the aluminum [esp. when placed in contact w/ a dissimilar metal] Copper has a long history in plumbing [which is what all that exhaust piping amounts to anyway] - aluminum doesn't, even after it became cheaper than copper. The differences in melt temperature of aluminum and stainless steel are dramatic, 1200F vs. 2700F. Exhaust temperatures may not reach the melt temperature of aluminum but you run into trouble with the heat required to anneal the material. Aluminum is not often used in exhaust because it will become soft after the first heat and cool cycle. Also don’t forget Aluminum oxidizes, particularly in corrosive and high temperature environments. My hope is that the ductility of the shim won’t be a problem because it is not a structural part. Without a doubt it would be more robust out of stainless but that would up the work involved I’m still waiting on some new quotes for my original stainless steel cupped version. Aaron Bard
Guest Aaron Bard Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 The new pricing for the original steel couplers is as follows… 8 folks at $80.00 each set 12 folks $65.00 each set 16 folks $59.00 each set + Shipping Parts will be CNC machined from stainless steel Aaron Bard
dlaing Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 An aquaintance of mine used perforated aluminum sheeting to form the tube of his glass pack slip on, for his Suzuki. It lasted about a year and started disintegrating while were riding blowing shrapnel into our riding path. Granted that is in the direct path of the exhaust gasses...
Skeeve Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 The new pricing for the original steel couplers is as follows…8 folks at $80.00 each set 12 folks $65.00 each set 16 folks $59.00 each set + Shipping Parts will be CNC machined from stainless steel Aaron Bard 77257[/snapback] I'm in.
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