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Posted

I used Hammerite® over a fiberglass windscreen.

The results were good but well short of great, and nowhere near perfect.

Spraycan painting is an art.

Never start pressing the button while aimed at your target.

Press the button aiming at nothing and then sweep over the target.

Don't put too much on(drip), and don't put too little on(dry).

Consistency will produce a consistent surface.

But inevitably the spray can will blurp on your last pass. :doh:

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Posted
surface preparation is a critical item.

Surface preperation is one of the most critical jobs in order the paint to stay on and look good.

Painting such a part with a spray can equals to destroying a nice coat that has from the factory.If you're serious better get it to a specialist,he take care of it.

 

Scratching of the varnish with 180 grit gradually to 320 clean and apply base coat paint check for surface smothness ,clean & apply paint (as many coats as it needs) when ready with result apply finnal clear coat a couple can be enough depending the hardness particles of the varnish material (bring them as smooth as it gets in between coatings)

Recoat after 12-16 hours and it's ready can even apply more coats.That's for "double layer" acrylics.I have applied so many on my Sporti's tank that now the Guzzi logo sticker is even with the rest of the surface looks like a glass now c007.gif , took me 4-5 days but was worth it..

 

For easier working there are the Createx colors (see Createx automotive) that to my experience are,perhaps, the easiest working , most vibrand,all surface, high quality colors(combined attributes) .Will have to work the mix to make the correct color since it mostly reffers to artists and there's not such wide variety of tones.

 

Airbrush and experience is needed for the above to get a positive result, or else

worse results will occure and as well as dissapointment.In other words you may not have to try all the above if you don't know.

Posted

Press the button aiming at nothing and then sweep over the target.

Don't put too much on(drip), and don't put too little on(dry).

Consistency will produce a consistent surface.

But inevitably the spray can will blurp on your last pass.  :doh:

 

Yep that's the way it goes , but spray cans are for painting small stuff mostly for hobies.

The problem is that there is no control to the :

a)air pressure :doh:

b)Nossle thickness and or nossle control when material is bypassing through :wacko:

c)Control of material (paint) dencity.

 

So you can pretty easily forget any kind of greatness when painting with a spraycan (compared of course with a quality airbrush and color)

Posted
I agree with Badmotogoozer, don't do it. You'll never get an exact match because the OEM red is various different transparent layers, and very difficult to do. Even a professional paintguy didn't get it 100% right (in my case)

 

If you take a color sample to a computer color analyser they'll make a match for you, so close that most if not any naked eye won't be able to notice at all. And they can fit it to you in a spray can as well but that;s not the subject, spray cans don't work for such cases.

To tell you the truth all colors fade away a bit ,regarding how more or less is it exposed to outdoor harshness, and therefore even if you have the factory color it'll never match the old one when painted side by side.

A GOOD professional painter will match a color to a degree that's not noticed by a common eye under any conditions. c015.gif

Color is a tricky thing .i.e. paint a surface with a coat of paint ,let it be even, O.K.? then mask let's say the half of it and spray yet again another coat to the unmasked.Tear off the mask and you'll notice an at least 10% difference in color contrast between the 2 areas (paitend evenly with the same color) c028.gif Did you know this?? c018.gif

Posted
Color is a tricky thing .i.e. paint a surface with a coat of paint ,let it be even, O.K.? then mask let's say the half of it and spray yet again another coat to the unmasked.Tear off the mask and you'll notice an at least 10% difference in color contrast between the 2 areas (paitend evenly with the same color)  Did you know this??

73352[/snapback]

 

Cool. I did not know that. I'll have to try it sometime.

Posted

Bruce,

You will be sorry. While it is true that roughing the finish and using an appropriate primer will get the paint to stick, without a flex additive the finish will eventually crack. Secondly, as others have said, the color and finish will not even be close. It is likely that even a professional would have to paint both pieces to guarantee a perfect match.

:2c:

Posted

You know, on a whim I thought it would be a great idea to turn my Peugeot 205 into a little Rat car. The first thing done was a flat black piss can job. Great idea for anything you don't really care for, but I wouldn't do it to my Guzzi.

 

 

Z

Posted

Doing RC cars I thought Spray cans were fine until I actually tried out an Airbrush and lemme tell you my little Dodge Viper in the right light and background looks like the real thing. I had it metallic Candy Red I sprayed down 2 coats of bright candy red then 2 coats of Gold metallic I wish I could do a car like that. :P:

Paint cans are better left to rusty gates and crappy picture frames.

Posted
Are you guys sure its a plastic? From what I remember the one on my scura was heavy, so I had the idea it was from steel.

73784[/snapback]

Oohhhh mines definatly plastic of some sort and its not all that heavy. Maybe someone fabricated you a steel one while you werent looking? :huh2:

:lol:

Posted

I recently replaced my pillion seat with a cowl that needed to be painted, and went the rattle can route. I found a great site (can't locate it now!!!!, but here's another detailed one) where someone did a step by step with photos. The key is prep, lots of wet sanding and most importantly, patience. All I needed was the paint as I already had the other stuff lying around....turned out pretty damn good for a first attempt. Looks better than what this photo shows...... It "can" be done!!

 

 

Repaint

 

:rasta:

Finished_Cowl_Install.jpg

Posted

If you do go for it, finish it with a couple of Acylic Urethane clear coats.

I'm a hack and I've done some beautiful stuff with 6-1200 grit and a good clear coat.

Posted
If you do go for it, finish it with a couple of Acylic Urethane clear coats.

I'm a hack and I've done some beautiful stuff with 6-1200 grit and a good clear coat.

74489[/snapback]

I think I'll give that a try for the seat cowl if I can't get it airbrushed. The tank on the otherhand I Want done up like a prize moo cow. :ninja:

Posted
I recently replaced my pillion seat with a cowl that needed to be painted, and went the rattle can route. I found a great site (can't locate it now!!!!, but here's another detailed one)  where someone did a step by step with photos. The key is prep, lots of wet sanding and most importantly, patience. All I needed was the paint as I already had the other stuff lying around....turned out pretty damn good for a first attempt. Looks better than what this photo shows...... It "can" be done!!

Repaint

 

:rasta:

74458[/snapback]

 

hey CafeMan, where did you get that Laverda cowl? Thats something for the missus' Ghost.

Posted
I recently replaced my pillion seat with a cowl that needed to be painted, and went the rattle can route. I found a great site (can't locate it now!!!!, but here's another detailed one)  where someone did a step by step with photos. The key is prep, lots of wet sanding and most importantly, patience. All I needed was the paint as I already had the other stuff lying around....turned out pretty damn good for a first attempt. Looks better than what this photo shows...... It "can" be done!!

Repaint

 

:rasta:

74458[/snapback]

Hey, CafeMan,

that looks great !! :thumbsup:

l agree with the perfectionists, a tank, paint by a pro...but for a small item like a cowl,,see, a rattle can will work !!

:bier:

Cheers

van

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