reinforcing plastic

[mdude]

Fiddling about with the side panels I found cracks round all of the bolt holes.

The panels themselves are veeeery thin and flimsy and I guess it would be smart to reinforce them with a thin layer of something on the inside. Especially since Im considering a repaint some time in the future (along the lines of Jediones hotrod paint).

 

How to, what materials, anywhere I can read about this? Any fast solutions?

[Guest Nogbad]

Fiddling about with the side panels I found cracks round all of the bolt holes.

The panels themselves are veeeery thin and flimsy and  I guess it would be smart to reinforce them with a thin layer of something on the inside. Especially since Im considering a repaint some time in the future (along the lines of Jediones hotrod paint).

 

How to, what materials, anywhere I can read about this? Any fast solutions?

76075[/snapback]

 

I did consider trying to stipple a thin layer of woven glass mat onto the back of the panels but in the end welded the panels instead. I may still reinforce them if they crack again. This method should be ok. The panels are ABS which is styrene based, and standard glass fibre resin is also styrene based, so if you clean the rear of the panel really well and rough it up the stuff ought to stick like shit to a blanket. The downside is an increase in thickness of the panel, but if you use a thin woven blanket and don't go mad with the resin I guess it should be fine.

 

Guinea pigs wanted.

[docc]

I've done each of my side covers differently.

 

One method is to cut blank perforated board, used for circuit boards and available at Radio Shack, and epoxy it to the inside of the panel. It must be shapsd and drilled. Don't use 5-minute epoxy as you need time to work it into the holes and camp the piece in place. Rough the panel surface with 100 grit. Disadvantage to this method is the thickness as the panels can then be hard to postion and longer screws my be required.

 

On the other( and the starter cover) I used a fiberglass repair kit aviaable from "Bondo." Again, rough the panel, follow the directions on the box. A couple layers will do and holes can be worked around with smaller strips of glass mat to clean up the hole later.

 

Advantage to method 2: thinner, stronger, no clamping, works around curves better.

 

Good luck!

[Guest Nogbad]

You can buy the thinner woven type glass mat from boatbuilding suppliers. Woven mat is stronger for the same thickness than the random chopped strand mat that typically comes in the repair kits.

 

A good tip after laminating the mat is to wait until the resin has "gelled" but is not yet fully hard. At this stage you can trim it with a sharp knife leaving neat edges. Once it has fully hardened you need a saw and abrasive tools to do the trimming.

[Steve G.]

Preventive measures are an option as well. You may find that because the spacers at the back of the fuel tank are low, they are permitting the fuel tank to rest a portion of it's weight against the side covers, putting pressure on the area around the retaining screws on the covers. As well, the retaining screws should be checked to avoid being too tight. A half drop of loctite on ecah screw so it won't fly away is an option.

The sheer vibration of the engine/gearbox unit literally split my starter cover in half. My preventive measure here was to receive my warranty cover, and to not install it.

Ciao, Steve G.

[Guest Nogbad]

Preventive measures are an option as well. You may find that because the spacers at the back of the fuel tank are low, they are permitting the fuel tank to rest a portion of it's weight against the side covers, putting pressure on the area around the retaining screws on the covers. As well, the retaining screws should be checked to avoid being too tight. A half drop of loctite on ecah screw so it won't fly away is an option.

The sheer vibration of the engine/gearbox unit literally split my starter cover in half. My preventive measure here was to receive my warranty cover, and to not install it.

                                                                              Ciao, Steve G.

76087[/snapback]

 

My starter cover was ok until the tranny recall was done. When they put the retaining strap and clips back, they left the clip screw behind the cover rather than behind the starter so when the cover was screwed back it was stressed by resting on the clip.

[Guest ratchethack]

Preventive measures are an option as well. You may find that because the spacers at the back of the fuel tank are low, they are permitting the fuel tank to rest a portion of it's weight against the side covers, putting pressure on the area around the retaining screws on the covers. As well, the retaining screws should be checked to avoid being too tight. A half drop of loctite on ecah screw so it won't fly away is an option.

The sheer vibration of the engine/gearbox unit literally split my starter cover in half. My preventive measure here was to receive my warranty cover, and to not install it.

                                                                               Ciao, Steve G.

What Steve said. Preventive maintenance efforts are well rewarded here. I eliminated the tendency for my side-covers to crack before it started by putting a 1/4" nylon spacer under the tab and bolt at the rear of the tank. I used the Bodger's favorite working medium (J-B Weld) to form a built-up area around screw holes on the side-covers and front fender. Works like a Champ!

[Frenchbob]

 

One method is to cut blank perforated board, used for circuit boards and available at Radio Shack, and epoxy it to the inside of the panel. It must be shapsd and drilled. Don't use 5-minute epoxy as you need time to work it into the holes and camp the piece in place. Rough the panel surface with 100 grit. Disadvantage to this method is the thickness as the panels can then be hard to postion and longer screws my be required.

 

76078[/snapback]

 

A refinement of this [if you're an advanced bodger] is to use thin plastic card, such as used in model-making and available at any modelling supplies shop. Epoxy it and you won't need longer screws. I did it on mine and it works well.

[dlaing]

If the cracks have already started, you may want to drill stop cracks, that is drill a 1/8inch or so, hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from proceeding.

This ofcourse is an ugly bodge technique.

If you combine it with reinforcement, you can probably drill a much smaller hole...or no hole...I am not sure if no hole is ok

[Guest Nogbad]

If the cracks have already started, you may want to drill stop cracks, that is drill a 1/8inch or so, hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from proceeding.

This ofcourse is an ugly bodge technique.

If you combine it with reinforcement, you can probably drill a much smaller hole...or no hole...I am not sure if no hole is ok 

76122[/snapback]

 

No hole is ok if the reinforcement adds enough strength. Who wants an ugly hole through the panel.

[badmotogoozer]

My side covers both broke when I first brought my new V11 home. 3 years later my warranty replacements haven't shown up. Looks like I'll be repairing mine.

 

I have had great results with solvent bonding for small cracks. Not great for holding together things that have broken apart, but perfect for cracks.

 

Using a toothpick, dab a TINY amount of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone) along the back of the crack. Let capillary action draw the solvent into the crack. If you are careful, the crack won't even be noticeable through the painted side. Keep it off the paint.

 

Get used to it in a corner of the back, or on some scrap abs. Place a drop on the abs and scratch the toothpick around in it. You'll see that it melts the ABS and then it hardens back up again. You are essentially welding it back together.

 

Once it has hardened (best left 24hrs) use Steve's preventative measures as above along with rubber or nylon washers on the mounting screws and you should never have the problem again.

 

I have MEK in my lab (100%) but I believe that you can also get it at an auto body shop, or in the plumbing section of any hardware store. Look on the chemical contents of any "abs pipe solvent". I think most of that stuff is 99% MEK.

 

cheers,

 

Rj

[DeBenGuzzi]

I found a decent enough solution.

BADDA BING. No more cracks.

[big J]

Toothpicks are illegal in Ireland

[edge]

dab a TINY amount of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone) along the back of the crack. 

 

I have MEK in my lab (100%) but I believe that you can also get it at an auto body shop, or in the plumbing section of any hardware store.  Look on the chemical contents of any "abs pipe solvent".  I think most of that stuff is 99% MEK.

76156[/snapback]

 

 

 

Ya'll need to be very carefull with the MEK... Nasty, nasty stuff! Cancer, blindness, nerve damage, etc.. A HAZMAT & MSDS nightmare

 

Don't get me wrong, that shit is a great cleaner and will strip the paint to the metal before you know what happend Ya just have to handle with care.

[DeBenGuzzi]

 

Ya'll need to be very carefull with the MEK...  Nasty, nasty stuff! Cancer, blindness, nerve damage, etc..  A HAZMAT & MSDS nightmare   

 

Don't get me wrong, that shit is a great cleaner and will strip the paint to the metal before you know what happend    Ya just have to handle with care.

76169[/snapback]

yeah I love it when the stuff is in a sealed plastic container and then inside of another plastic bag with warnings all over the place, I think if this stuff is that dangerous I know a lot of ppl that shouldn't have access to it. I think I'm one of those people.