Buying a torque wrench

[Guest PAULSMART]

I would like a new torque wrench , what should I look for, I'm after something for occasional home use (so that rules out Snap-on)

 

any recommendations

 

Paul

[Guzzirider]

I have 2 cos I could not find one with the range of torque values I wanted. I have a small wrench for lower values, and a big muthaf*cker for larger values.

 

Both Halfords who sell decent kit these days.

 

Guy

[grossohc]

I have a teng tools (3892AG-E3) one with 3/8 drive, the range is 3-18ft.Ib 5-25nm which is handy for not overtightening the smaller nuts/bolts and a bigger 1/2 drive for the rest.

Gary

[Bill Hagan]

I would like a new torque wrench , what should I look for, I'm after something for occasional home use (so that rules out Snap-on)

 

any recommendations

 

Paul

78682[/snapback]

 

First, you may find this article useful. WBW is a good source for starter questions for me in just about everything m/c related, and I always have lots of questions http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

 

I will say that I wasn't smart enough to read that myself on the TW issue, but at least had the sense to ask Wayne Orwig, whom I look to for advice on all Guzzi things, especially mechanical questions.

 

Wayne says that the only TW's worth anything (except the $1+K commerical versions) are the "beam" type. Good news is that are the cheapest of the bunch.

 

Says all get easily (and sometimes permanently) out of spec, and only the beam ones are easy to calibrate. I bought these two:

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00944978000

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...000&tab=spe#tab

 

YMMV

 

Bill

[Mike Stewart]

I have 5 different Snap-On torque wrenches in my tool box at work , one for just doing bearing preload for diff work and all the others for engine, trans and suspension work.

 

Do you need an expensive torque wrench, most likely not. Even with having a Snap-On torque wrench, they are suppost to be calibrated something like every 6 months (even sooner if you drop it). A beam type torque wrench should be just as accurate.

 

Mike

[bigbikerrick]

I have 5 different Snap-On torque wrenches in my tool box at work , one for just doing bearing preload for diff work and all the others for engine, trans and suspension work. 

 

Do you need an expensive torque wrench, most likely not.  Even with having a Snap-On torque wrench, they are suppost to be calibrated something like every 6 months (even sooner if you drop it).  A beam type torque wrench should be just as accurate.

 

Mike

78707[/snapback]

Mike, how do you re calibrate a beam style torque wrench such as the sears one Bill Hagan has a link to?

[Mike Stewart]

The beam type torque wrench I was referring to is just that a beam with a rod that measures torque (as pictured).

 

To calibrate the Craftsman torque wrench, you have to send it out to a shop that has the machinery to do the calibration and adjustments. With the Snap-on torque wrench, you just give it to the dealer that comes around every week and he sends it to a Snap-On facility to have the calibration preformed (which runs about $70.00).

 

Mike

 

Mike, how do you re calibrate a beam style torque wrench such as the sears one Bill Hagan has a link to?

78709[/snapback]

[jrt]

Or you clamp or otherwise affix the drive head, then put a known weight on the handle, measure the distance from the center of the drive head to the center of downward force on the handle (the string you used to attach it or whatever). Badabing, that's your calibration- x pounds at y feet. Or convert it into newton*meters.

[Guest Wayne Orwig]

Mike, how do you re calibrate a beam style torque wrench such as the sears one Bill Hagan has a link to?

78709[/snapback]

 

If the needle points to zero, it is calibrated. If not, bend it so it does, and you just calibrated it.

 

We use a lot of torque wrenches in our manufacturing. All 'click' type. In critical locations we have to verify calibration daily because they are used all day long under load. If you have a 'click' type, storeage is important. If you store it wrong, you MAY be able to set it correctly (often to zero) and let is rest, but you don't know. Read the manual on storeage and calibrate occasionally.

 

Me, I don't use them often enough to justify something that constantly needs calibrated. So I just toss a couple beam types in the tool box.

 

[mike wilson]

Keep an eye out for WD auctions. Excellent supply of tools. I got a Britool torque screwdriver (well, actually, I got 20) for less than £1. Measures low torques - ideal for rocker boxes and other anal stuff. Was ex-RAf, from what I can gather.

 

Sorry, the others are all gone.

 

mike

[Bill Hagan]

If the needle points to zero, it is calibrated. If not, bend it so it does, and you just calibrated it.

 

We use a lot of torque wrenches in our manufacturing. All 'click' type. In critical locations we have to verify calibration daily because they are used all day long under load. If you have a 'click' type, storeage is important. If you store it wrong, you MAY be able to set it correctly (often to zero) and let is rest, but you don't know. Read the manual on storeage and calibrate occasionally.

 

Me, I don't use them often enough to justify something that constantly needs calibrated. So I just toss a couple beam types in the tool box.

 

78755[/snapback]

 

Exactly. I was going to say that (by taking Wayne's email to me and stealing his words ), but he's registered and posted now and so I'm hoping we have him hooked.

[Guest Nogbad]

It just occurred to me that if you have "click" type torque wrenches and are unsure of their accuracy, you could easily calibrate them against a "beam" wrench. Clamp the handle of the "click" preset wrench to the bench, remove the square drive spindle (these are usually push through reversible so that you can use the wrench on left and right hand threads), shove the square drive of the beam wrench in there to couple the two together and pull on the beam wrench until the preset one clicks and compare the torque reading on the beam with the preset value.

[bigbikerrick]

It just occurred to me that if you have "click" type torque wrenches and are unsure of their accuracy, you could easily calibrate them against a "beam" wrench. Clamp the handle of the "click" preset wrench to the bench, remove the square drive spindle (these are usually push through reversible so that you can use the wrench on left and right hand threads), shove the square drive of the beam wrench in there to couple the two together and pull on the beam wrench until the preset one clicks and compare the torque reading on the beam with the preset value.

78818[/snapback]

Hey, Thats pretty clever!

[Guest ratchethack]

It just occurred to me that if you have "click" type torque wrenches and are unsure of their accuracy, you could easily calibrate them against a "beam" wrench.

This is how I check mine periodically. I put sockets on each wrench to fit a nut between 'em. Works like a Champ.

 

As Wayne said, what can really throw a click-type torque wrench out of whack is forgetting to "zero" it when you put it away for storage, and then don't use it for a long time. This can permanently sack-out the spring.

[badmotogoozer]

Looking at upgrading my TW. Considering Snap-On Tech2fr100 electronic TW.

 

Anyone have any experience with these? Wondering how the compare with click type wrt staying in calibration and long term functionality.

 

TIA

 

Rj