bigbikerrick Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 does anyone know what can be used to unscrew the "manhole cover" to remove the oil filter without dropping the sump? I dont want to purchase a special tool, Im sure something has been rigged up by some of the "gurus" here. also Ive heard its real easy to strip/crossthread the manhole cover ,is this true? Is it not a good idea to remove the filter this way? Im just looking to simplify the oil/filter change process but dont want to risk opening up a "can o worms" , Thanks.
TX REDNECK (R.I.P.) Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 Yeah you can use a big nut to remove it, I can't remember what size.. 27 mm but, I don't like this method. Drop the pan & change the filter that way ,+ you'll be able to clean out the screen too. This is something that you should do for piece of mind & it really doesn't take that much time
pete roper Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 I got a bloody great 27mm key ground up specially but the ting is that the plate that covers the filter has a very fine thread form, (For strength.) but it also means that it's prone to seizing, is easy to cross thread and it's hard to judge how tight is *safe*. Even if you do decide to go through this way you still need a special filter wrench th get the old filter out and, yes, if it has previously been over-torqued it can be a right sod to get it off with even a correct filter wrench being prone to slipping off the filter flutes. As I stated in the 'Cheap Oil Filter' thread the service interval specified by the factory is a joke, there is NO need to do it anywhere near as often. I reckon every third change with an oil change interval of 5,000Km, although if you want to you could probably go longer with a synthetic, is being ridiculously conservative. Dropping the pan is so easy it's certainly the way I'd do it if I wasn't already tooled up to do it the *hard* way. The externally accessible oil filter was one of those things that Guzzi did I'm sure because people used to piss and moan about taking the sump off. Just call me Mr. Stupid but I never saw it as an issue? Perhaps because Guzzis were the first bikes I ever owned with an oil filter but it's such a minor task that has to be undertaken so infrequently I simply couldn't see what the fuss was about . The new sump used on the Breva and Griso is arranged so the filter sits in a cavity in the sump accessible from the *Outside* without removing a plate. I reckon it will be a right stinker to get off if it's been overtightened and there isn't even much space to biff a screwdriver through it to wind it off! . Yeah, yeah, all of you who think that everything new is wonderful will say I'm just being an old fuddy-duddy, actually I'm not, I'm just pointing out that there was never anything wrong with the *old* system so I see the change as purely *market* driven and not having a lot to do with good engineering. Before I get howled at I know the plumbing in the *New* sump is entirely different to that in earlier models. I haven't been able to work the system out yet entirely and don't know what the benefits are, or, on the other hand, the downsides! <_> Pete
Guest ckamin Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 For about 5 bucks I went to the auto parts store, got a wheel stud and 2 lug nuts with an external size of an inch ans a sixteenth (if I remember correctly) and had a friend weld the three together. Voila! put one nut into the cover's receptacle and use a wrench on the other. I think the "appropriate" socket will be more $$ and harder to find. I've been warned about crossthreading the manhole covers upon reinstallation but I found it isn't that difficult to get the threads started to begin with. Personally, I can't see an oil change getting much easier. As long as your filter wrench has the right number of flutes, you're in good shape! Carl
Steve G. Posted February 25, 2006 Posted February 25, 2006 I bought a 27mm [or more easily found imperial equivalent] bolt, and two nylock nuts for it. I cranked the 2 nuts tightly together on one end, and use the bolt head to go into the filter access 'plate'. $5cdn. Not the slightest increase possibility of cross threading the plate compared to the M.G. tool. Don't fool around with the wrong filter wrench. Get the proper number of 'flutes', or flat parts that the filter has. A fram filter of the same size and fitting, the number of flutes are less than on an OEM UFI filter. A filter wrench regularly found in North America has a flute number different from the UFI. You will have to buy the wrench from a Motion Pro outlet, probably your nearest bike shop, where I got mine. Ciao, Steve G.
bigbikerrick Posted February 25, 2006 Author Posted February 25, 2006 Thank you all, I appreciate the responses. I think that as much of a "murphys Law" person as I am , If anything CAN go wrong for me it probably will, I Think Id better take the "safe" approach that Mr. Roper suggested and remove the bloody sump, and not risk stripping the manhole cover and possibly not being able to remove the filter due to it being overtorqued, slipping flutes,etc. I may as well not be so darn lazy and remove all those little bolts. Theres an old Cuban saying that my Dad used to always tell me: " El Flojo trabaja doble" It looses a little in the translation, but means " The Lazy person always ends up doing double the work"...
v50man Posted February 27, 2006 Posted February 27, 2006 I paid $50 for the special tool -- and don't regret it one bit. As opposed to a dealer doing the change, it paid for itself in two oil changes. Per the "manhole," I find that if you clean it thoroughly and thread it back in BY HAND, you'll have no problems. Dropping the sump is a labor-intensive pain in the ass - IMHO. Call MG Cycle -- get the tool.
k7qz Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 Make it easy on yourself. Buy the Lockhart Phillips tool here: http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/rs/showProduct.cgi and type in 130-5071 (the part number) in the search box. Official name is Paulimoto Oil Cover Wrench for Moto Guzzi. Snaps right on to your 3/8" drive ratchet. Looks nice in the anodized red. It'll match your "pork chops"! -Mike
Ouiji Veck Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 AhhHa Though I've read it a few times it does my heart good To see others find screwing the manhole cover on a bit spooky... The instant I saw those threads I thought.."ooh boy..careful with those delicate aluminum folicles" After about 5 nano seconds of attempting to get the threads started the first time I layed right down under the bike to get real familliar with the realestate. Now it's no problem except for how tight. I go with TIGHT! The proper torque being.... get it pretty tight....then imagine it comming off... then tighten it...(after your balls return to thier normal residence)
Guest ratchethack Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 A 27 mm nut tack welded to 12" of steel bar stock cost about $3 at y'er local welding shop and works like a Champ.
Frenchbob Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 A 27 mm nut tack welded to 12" of steel bar stock cost about $3 at y'er local welding shop and works like a Champ. 80396[/snapback] Excellent scheme! Having waited months for the tool from my dealer [not his fault, but the factory's], I shall copy this. Last time I found an old imperial box spanner that nearly fitted and wound some tape round until it did: happily my "hatch" wasn't too tight. I have had the pan off, as well, to clean everything out, but it was as clean as a whistle, anyway, and I shan't do it again for some time.
big J Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 You want to watch that, a flappy hatch can land you in all sorts of truble
Frenchbob Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 You want to watch that, a flappy hatch can land you in all sorts of truble 80466[/snapback] What makes you think it hasn't, already?
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