V11 Battery Replacement

[Guest ratchethack]

Hey SoCal guzzisti,

 

I have nursed 4 years out of my stock 02 LeMans spaghetti battery.  What are you folks using and where do you get them?

 

DaGoose

I replaced mine at 6 years (!) with a Hawker Odyssey PC 545. See many posts on this in this Forum. In January, they were in low stock everywhere in the US. If you find one at a decent price, I'd go f'er it while they last!

[Guest trispeed]

my stock battery died after 2000 miles! MG will warranty/ replace it but only with the stock battery. I didn't want to be worrying about when the italian crap would fail, so I bought a westco from moto international up in seattle. $100 and highly recommended by them.

[dlaing]

I replaced mine at 6 years (!) with a Hawker Odyssey PC 545.  See many posts on this in this Forum.  In January, they were in low stock everywhere in the US.  If you find one at a decent price, I'd go f'er it while they last!

83137[/snapback]

http://www.portablepower.com/

About as cheap as it gets, great service people, ships from Colorado.

They were on back order a couple weeks ago, but they sent me the new battery this week.

FWIW

The Odyssey I got from them 16 months ago started failing after about a year, but I think it was because of a bad voltage regulator.

I got by on the bad battery for about 4 months , but had to push start twice

I won't know for sure if the battery was dead until a few days of success with the new one pass.

Otherwise I'll be tracking down diod leaks and charging failures.

[Guest Nogbad]

My OEM Guzzi battery is still going strong! 2000 bike.

[mdude]

My OEM Guzzi battery is still going strong! 2000 bike.

86774[/snapback]

 

Yep, mine to. 2001/-02 and the bike has done a lot of standing still in its life (9000 kms now). Lots of life in the battery, only needed an hour of charging every two months during winter.

 

TIP:

One can also look to the BMW gel batteries if Hawker is unobtainable. They are a bit pricey, but top quality. If I'm not wrong they are also a bit smaller/lighter.

[callison]

The original spec battery is available in the USA for $70 (not from motorcycle dealers though).

Portable Power Systems

 

[dlaing]

The original spec battery is available in the USA for $70 (not from motorcycle dealers though).

Portable Power Systems

 

86788[/snapback]

From what I read on the specs, I think the original spec battery, the Spark 500 is really a re-badged Hawker Genesis, not the superior Hawker Odyssey.

The Genesis is a better battery for things like home alarms, battery backups for computers, etc.

The Odyssey is a better Motor Sport battery.

If you look at the description of the Genesis at www.portablepower.com, they say:

"For motorsports applications use the Odyssey battery. The Odyssey was designed for rugged vibration sensitive applications with thicker plates to prevent cracking and premature failure. The warranty on the Genesis doesn't cover motorsports installations. "

The Spark 500 having identical specs to the Genesis leads me to the assumption that that is why the Spark 500 has many failures as it is not built for motorsports.

[jimbemotumbo]

Ditto the 545. Great battery. I even use one on the big bore road king. Lotso cranking power & they really hold a charge well! Portable power is about 15 minutes away, so easy pickup and no shipping!

[Ryland3210]

Ditto the 545. Great battery. I even use one on the big bore road king. Lotso cranking power & they really hold a charge well! Portable power is about 15 minutes away, so easy pickup and no shipping!

86839[/snapback]

 

As an alternative to the Yuasa YTZ12S, consider the YTX15L. It comes factory prepared to prevent leaks which are likely in tilted applications according to Yuasa's website. It has the terminals in the opposite direction as the 12S, so does not need cable re-routing, and has more amp-hour capacity. The 12S is the same thickness as the 15L, but is smaller than the tray.

 

Whatever sealed battery you use, be careful to avoid initially charging at high rates if you want long term life and wish to avoid leaks.

 

I also prefer the PC545ML, but my dealer elected to replace the leaking, dealer prepared YTX15L-BS with the factory prepared YTX15L recommended by Yuasa. It was on his nickel, so I have no complaint.

 

For more details, see the topic about Battery Leaks.

[antonio carroccio]

which measure does have the yuasa YTX15L? European parameters please...

Sorry, I've got it.

 

Metric Dimensions: 175mm x 87mm x 130mm

 

It seems to big for the V11... <_>

[dlaing]

The Odyssey I got from them 16 months ago started failing after about a year, but I think it was because of a bad voltage regulator.

I got by on the bad battery for about 4 months , but had to push start twice

I won't know for sure if the battery was dead until a few days of success with the new one pass.

Otherwise I'll be tracking down diod leaks and charging failures.

86730[/snapback]

Dave you stupid lazy relativist!

It looks like I have a leak in the electrical system....so now I have two batteries

The worse part is that the leak is in the ECU

Will trade your ECU Ti or regular ECU for either $100 or a three day old Hawker Odyssey plus some cashiola!!!

EDIT never mind, Carl A. will sell me back the ECU I sold him...Thanks Carl!

So what caused this????

I don't know. Probably the failure of the voltage regulator, or running a charger on it without pulling the ECU fuse(probably a good idea), or the Tuneboy (I don't think so, it should be no worse than hooking it up to a Guzzi shop computer, but it ran the battery down a bit, so the charging system may have had to work harder, which could have toasted the voltage regulator and then the ECU??? but that all could have happened from a low battery anyway...)

I hope getting a replacement TuneBoy Key is not a big problem...

For now I will just pull the ECU fuse to keep the battery from running down.

[Guest Nogbad]

Shouldn't the ECU be isolated by the appropriate relay when the key is off? Maybe you have a welded relay contact. Hard to imagine the ECU could be faulty in that way but still run the bike.

[DeBenGuzzi]

Shouldn't the ECU be isolated by the appropriate relay when the key is off? Maybe you have a welded relay contact. Hard to imagine the ECU could be faulty in that way but still run the bike.

86952[/snapback]

I think my battery is dead dead, I was running it, idling and if I shut it off all I could get was clicks I had to hook the charger to it to get it to fire over again. The battery is a 2000, Also I called manley cycles, guess what I should have called months ago they are booked until the first part of june. actually I'm going to have to call them back I don't remember the date he told me now I just need to get the juices changed and the valves adjusted.

but I ordered the hawker odyssey PC545mj. I hope it works

[Ryland3210]

which measure does have the yuasa YTX15L? European parameters please...

Sorry, I've got it.

 

Metric Dimensions: 175mm x 87mm x 130mm

 

It seems to big for the V11... <_>

86884[/snapback]

 

My bike came with the YTX15L-BS, which is the same battery as the YTX15L, just dealer prepared. They do fit my Cafe Sport, though slightly larger than the tray. As long as the Odyssey PC545 receives its initial charge properly, it is the better choice in my opinion. If you can get the metal jacket version, PC545MJ, that is better yet, and still fits under the seat.

[dlaing]

Shouldn't the ECU be isolated by the appropriate relay when the key is off? Maybe you have a welded relay contact. Hard to imagine the ECU could be faulty in that way but still run the bike.

86952[/snapback]

Apparently not.

A line runs directly from the battery to the ECU fuse to both the number 17 pin on the ECU and to the ECU relay.

The relay needs the key to be on to energize the ECU, but hot wire still goes to the ECU with the engine off.

But I may be jumping the gun on what is wrong.

If I take an Ohm meter to the 17 pin and ground I get about 9,100,000 Ohms which should not be enough to drain the battery, in less than many thousands of hours, right?

But when I test to Carl Allison's Cliff Jeffries' MY15, I get 0 Ohms at the same pin.

The other thing is that if I take a volt meter between the fuse socket half that leads to the 17 pin and the other half of the socket that leads to the battery, I should get 0V, but I get 10.xV

This is with ignition off, all fuses and relays pulled.

Disconnect the ECU and the I get 0V between the two sides of the ECU fuse socket.

I did not want to jump the gun, so I went back out to the bike, hooked up an ammeter across the same fuse terminals with key off, and all relays and fuses pulled and I got 0.076 Amps.

Disconnected the ECU and I get 0.000 Amps.

Drat!

I guess I need a new ECU

Thank you for your patience as I hijacked this thread....I just wanted to be clear that the Odyssey I bought 16 months ago is fine

EDIT for those curious, replacing the ECU did not do the trick. The amps dropped to 0.072A.

I ran a couple more tests and determined that the current flows into the ECU on the 17 and rather than the current going to ground through the ECU, the current passes back into the harnass, but through which line, I do not know yet. Perhaps it goes to the fuel pumps, coils or injectors that may be malfunctioning...