Goofy dashlights

[Greg Field]

I had to replace one yesterday. What a horrible socket arrangement. The contacts are separate pieces, held apart by the bulb's base only. Worse yet, the bulb can be inserted two different ways, one of which is wrong. If you insert the bulb the wrong way, or if the bulb falls out, which it easily can when you re-insert the base into the instrument, the contacts short out and blow the fuse. ICK.

[OldButNotDead]

I had to replace one yesterday. What a horrible socket arrangement. The contacts are separate pieces, held apart by the bulb's base only. Worse yet, the bulb can be inserted two different ways, one of which is wrong. If you insert the bulb the wrong way, or if the bulb falls out, which it easily can when you re-insert the base into the instrument, the contacts short out and blow the fuse. ICK.

86456[/snapback]

 

 

Mine haven't died yet, but there was a previous discussion regarding possible solutions.

 

Try here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=2978&st=15

[Guest Nogbad]

When mine go tits up, I'm intending to cast LEDs into the idiot light positions using epoxy resin, and fit appropriate resistors to give me waterproof and everlasting idiot lights.

[callison]

That's why I rebuilt mine with white LED's.

[Guest MikeC]

What is the model or bulb number for the idiots lights so they can be matched to an equivilant LED replacement.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[al_roethlisberger]

When mine go tits up, I'm intending to cast LEDs into the idiot light positions using epoxy resin, and fit appropriate resistors to give me waterproof and everlasting idiot lights.

86473[/snapback]

 

 

Don't do that... LEDs fail too.

 

 

...well unless you don't mind totally rebuilding the sockets or directly wiring them in later.

 

BTW, the fuel idiot light will NOT work with an LED unless you build a custom circuit.

 

I have a thread somewhere about my first finding LEDs that will fit, then which ones worked out.

 

Al

[Mike Stewart]

I think you can use an LED for the fuel light if you wire it in after the fuel lamp bulb. Meaning, you leave the fuel lamp bulb/socket in place (stuffed inside the IP cluster) and the LED is placed in series after the socket. The resistance from the bulb is still there so the LED sould work properly.

 

I know, so why go through the trouble of fitting a LED then

 

I am just saying, it can be done.

 

And, agreed, LED can fail too

 

Mike

 

 

 

Don't do that... LEDs fail too.

...well unless you don't mind totally rebuilding the sockets or directly wiring them in later.

 

BTW, the fuel idiot light will NOT work with an LED unless you build a custom circuit.

 

I have a thread somewhere about my first finding LEDs that will fit, then which ones worked out.

 

Al

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[Guest Nogbad]

The MTBF of a properly ballasted LED should exceed the likely life of the bike. An appropriate "bulb mimicking" parallel resistor could be used for the fuel warning lamp, and you could even use a zener in the LED circuit to give you a firm ON state for the fuel lamp.

 

I have no qualms about fitting permanent LEDs into the display. The Veglia clocks would fail well before any of the LEDs.

[dlaing]

I have no qualms about fitting permanent LEDs into the display. The Veglia clocks would fail well before any of the LEDs.

86720[/snapback]

setting them in silicone sealant would probably work???

It would decrease vibration, insulate voltage and be easier to remove than epoxy.

Use clear if there is fear of blocking light.

You might also consider a weep hole for condensation but that might not be necessary....

[callison]

Gad, I put LED's in mine more than 3 years ago. LED's typically have a lifetime of 200,000 hours. A bit more than a Guzzi will last don't you think? You sure as heck don't need to get fancy to put them in there either. Mine are simply wrapped in duct tape until they fit snugly in the upper part of the old bub housing. I used the white LED's available at your friendly local radio shed. As I recall, one lead is soldered to the resister (320 ohms? - long time ago, sorry) and the other end of the resistor is soldered to whatever kind of terminal was in there for the bulb holder assembly originally (again, I don't recall and I am not going to go out in the garage and rip it apart for so menial a detail). It isn't difficult to do and the lovely light blue light is highly reminiscent of a 1000 rad Cobalt 60 source deep in a water pool. It rocks! I showed mine to Greg Field at the National Rally in Mt. Vernon. He just may not remember it.

[jimbemotumbo]

You can also use a bulb socket from any old Japanese DS bike. You know, the rubber grommeted kind. You can squish em into place and use silicone adhesive bewteen the metal of the instrument and the rubber socket. Use tape to hold it in place until dry. The new socket will have two wires ... obviously the positive gets plugged into the available wire in the harness, and then just solder up the second wire as a new ground to the instrument housing and then to the frame.

 

They work well, hold up perfectly, and the instruments are visibly brighter. If it falls out due to rubber shrinkage, you can always buy another for a dollar.