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Guest geezerx
Posted

As the old brain cells sink slowly into oblivion, I have a faint recollection of a gearbox thread in which someone mentioned an adjustment (centering??) of the transmission separate from those adjustments associated with external shift linkage. I've been searching it for awhile in vain. Guess it's time to burden you all with another of my newbie questions.

 

Here's the deal. The bike has developed a gear change problem in which when shifting from second to third gear, there occasionally is a brief period of maybe a second or two in which there is no power transfer through the transmission but instead a jingling sound followed by an abrupt engagement of third gear. On one (only one) occasion this was preceded by the shifter sticking in second gear. Wouldn't a broken shifter spring cause a frequent if not constant problem?? :huh2:

 

Anyway, on the side-cover of the transmission adjacent to the shift there is something that appears to have two nuts one on top of the other. The parts manual refers to it as an eccentric pin. What is it and why should I never touch it??? I'd be greatly appreciative of any info related to this shifting issue.

:notworthy:

Bruce

2000 V11S

Posted

Bruce,

 

Those 'nuts' lock the shaft that centers the throw of the shifting pawl inside the side case. The top nut is just a cap that seals the oil in. the inner nut jams the shaft which has a screw slot in it. Both nuts require standard crush washers. They are also so close to the shifter boss that you will need a 19 mm 'crow's foot' to get a good purchase without removing the exhaust cross-over.

 

The shaft moves the foot lever up and down. It only rotates maybe 60 degrees and , therefor is fairly sensitive. Watch the movement of the dog bolted directly to the shaft to center the throw. Then be sure your foot lever doesn't foul the frame in downshift. Change the length of the linkage if necessary. Grease all the pivot points while your at it.

 

That said, the hesitant engagement sounds more like a clutch issue. My 2000 V11 Sport has done that 'jump into the next gear' thing in the past. Lately, I've been more deliberate about allowing the rpm to drop before releasing the clutch. It just takes an instant but seems to provide much more consistent shifts with the 11 speed ( 6 forward, 5 neutrals).

 

Hope this is what you were looking for, docc

Guest geezerx
Posted

Docc, thanks for the reply.

I've still a question regarding this adjustment. You wrote:

Watch the movement of the dog bolted directly to the shaft to center the throw.
I'm thinking you are refering to the shaft protruding from the tranny to which the linkage is connected. How do I determine centering or proper adjustment? Is it a matter of rotating the ecentric pin from one extreme to the other and then spliting the difference, or is there another method of determination?

 

:notworthy:

Bruce

Posted

Bruce,

 

That's it. Rotate the shaft and note the movement in the linkage. Go for center.

 

Thought about your clutch jumping into engagement as I rode today. Off day for me as I missed gears all day. Grrr! The six-speeder just doesn't want to hurry.

 

You might want to bleed the clutch fluid if that's over 6000 miles.

 

Later, docc

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I seem to have found another simple source for shift problems on the sport.

 

During routine maintenence I disassembled the clutch lever and found the pivot pin all grunged up and even gauled. I polished it out with 400 grit paper and regeased it all with BelRay waterproof grease. The pull is MUCH smoother and lighter.

 

I can imagine the lever not fully releasing from a condtion like this contributing to the kind of 'jumping into gear' symptoms as Bruce has described.

 

At least on the sport the pivot is well out in the weather and deserves a good cleaning and lubrication. (watch out for the tiny button that activates the microswitch as it likes to fall out and roll away to a far corner of the garage.)

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