Battery draining through ECU

[Mike Stewart]

David,

 

I guess you could just put one of these inline to the #17 terminal of the ECU http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search

 

It's the $3.99 fix

 

Mike

[dlaing]

David,

 

I guess you could just put one of these inline to the #17 terminal of the ECU http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search 

 

It's the $3.99 fix 

 

Mike

87856[/snapback]

Or how about one of these

[Mike Stewart]

What ever works for you

 

Mike

 

 

Or how about one of these

87859[/snapback]

[dlaing]

But seriously, I went into the garage for some hot probing action, I hook up the brand new battery and guess what? 0V and 0A across the number one fuse! Bloody electrics!

Now the battery is freshly charged so it is reading more than 13V (and presumably by morining it should stabilize)

Could the higher voltage have something to do with it?

I guess I could put the 12.82V battery back in and give it a go, or just start it up, shut it down and test it.

Back to the garage, need more beer.

Thanks for the help so far everyone!

[dlaing]

What ever works for you

 

Mike

87860[/snapback]

I was hoping that other one would be a chick magnet, but it may attract others more quickly.

Maybe this is more sensible.

I couldn't find a hooters double switch

[dlaing]

I hook up the brand new battery and guess what? 0V and 0A across the number one fuse! Bloody electrics!

87861[/snapback]

OOOooops!

My bad.

I forgot to hook up one of the ground lines.

It then behaved the same. 0.072A across the number one fuse sockets.

FWIW the voltage measured 9.2V across the same number one fuse sockets.

So anyway, did some probing and came up with nothing. I was able to probe most of the wires, but a few gave me no change on the volt meter, so I am not sure I probed and made contact on all, but the #17 was the only one with any voltage.

Oh well.

I guess it is on to disconnecting the fuel injectors.

[dlaing]

Since I was not getting reliable readings back probing, I am going to give these a try:

waekon gold

The Bullet

part number 77004

Wire Piercing Probe Set

...anybody wanna purchase my PCIII serial after I get done piercing it?

EDIT

DANG! I can't find anything!!!!

I probed every wire coming out of the ECU for a change of voltage and only the 17 showed anything @#%!#$%$%!!!!

All I know is that the battery is draining into the ECU, but I can't figure out where it is going after entering it.

I am almost ready to start snipping the wires and then bridging with the ammeter.

I will start by bridging the ground.

[dlaing]

well the piercer worked pretty well.

They could center a little better.

But my results to date are inconclusive other than making think I need a third ECU for testing.

Anyone want to loan me theirs?

Carl wrote in another thread,

Pin #17 Dave? I think I'd be looking at the bottom of the ECU relay socket to see if terminals 30, 87 or 87A are bridged to another pin by something or pop the ECU relay out in case it's the culprit.

After I added some Fiamm horns to my Sport 1100i, the horn relay got water into it and after a while, the insides corroded enough to make the water real conductive. That drained the battery. Then I jump started the bike. That fried the regulator. I learned something that day.

The relay socket terminals don't seem to have any continuity between them, so there is no short there.(but there is continuity where there should be between sockets)

One interesting thing is if the PCIII is connected, there is something like 10K ohms between the #26 and the 87 injection relay terminal and 85 ecu relay terminal, but take away the PCIII and that goes away...probably where the PCIII gets its power.

I have pulled all the fuses, all the relays, disconnected every harnass and sensor that is accessible under the tank, and from what I can figure out, the volts go in the #17 and then go to ground somewhere.

I have pretty much eliminated the headlights, alternator, regulator, horns, engine position sensor, TPS, cylnder head temp, air temp, oil pressure switch, neutral switch, relays, relay blocks, fuses, fuse blocks, FI pump, fuel injectors, coils, fuel pump, ECU diode, turn signal relay, clutch switch, sidestand switch, and more.

Probing the wires shows no rise in voltage to any of the ecu wires other than the #17.

I put an ammeter on the main ECU ground and found no current, so it may be going out to the other ground wires, #23 and #24.

I'll try to figure out how to test them without cutting wire...

By the time I get this figured out, I will have Carl's wiring diagram memorized for everything touching the ECU

[callison]

Well Dave, you could just pull F1 every time you park the bike and consider it a case of Moto Guzzi "character"...

[dlaing]

Well Dave, you could just pull F1 every time you park the bike and consider it a case of Moto Guzzi "character"...

89866[/snapback]

Or move to mount palomar and just commute two hours each direction everyday

Or get a truck battery,

or I could also move the #17 to the keyed side of the wiring by putting a relay between the number one fuse and the number seventeen pin...but maybe the ECU needs voltage there before the relays provide voltage

Still I want to get it fixed, but I have just missed over a month of riding......

[Desdinova]

I am VERY interested in the outcome of this thread. I have given up and just assume if the bike hasn't been started for 10 or so days, it's going to need to be on the Tender. I actually have a voltmeter on her, and it drops about .2 volts per day. I got the voltmeter (clock, temp etc) just to measure it and see if I could see a pattern.

 

Anyway, I just figured that's the way it is.... but now that I see others NOT having the same issues... I am curious.

[dlaing]

I am VERY interested in the outcome of this thread.  I have given up and just assume if the bike hasn't been started for 10 or so days, it's going to need to be on the Tender.  I actually have a voltmeter on her, and it drops about .2 volts per day.  I got the voltmeter (clock, temp etc) just to measure it and see if I could see a pattern. 

 

Anyway, I just figured that's the way it is....  but now that I see others NOT having the same issues...  I am curious.

89877[/snapback]

With the ignition key off, try pulling the number one fuse(forward most fuse) and put the volt meter across it.

If you get something like 9 or 10 volts, you have the same problem I do.

If not, you may have a leak elsewhere, a bad battery, or something else like bad charging.

[Desdinova]

I get about 6 volts, but the bike hasn't been started in two weeks so I'm guessing we have at least similar problems. I recalculated and it's about .1 volt loss per day. It's down to 11.7 now which from it's normal 12.7ish would be about 10 days which is just about right... or wrong as the case may be.

 

When I ride the bike, it charges right up and I have none of the other tell-tale charging issues. It just drains when it sits. I hadn't really thought about it much until this thread, but my Vic can go about a month without being started before it starts turning over slower. Lisa's silverwing can go about two months. I assume EFI is an issue across the board as my Convert and the Bonnie America, neither of which has EFI can sit for months and pretty much fire right up.

 

Having said this, the LeMans seems to have a bit excessive battery drain.

[dlaing]

That does seem to be the same symptoms.

Maybe it is normal, and I have had the bike apart for the past month for nothing?!?

I only got concerned after my regulator and battery died.

Perhaps with my new battery I could last many days?...but not a month, and I have lasted a month before.

Could somebody else check the volts across the number 1 fuse socket, please?

[docc]

Oh, dear. I'm showing about 10 volts and 0.76 amps. What is it thinking about while we're sleeping?

 

 

The #3 fuse (regulator) shows 0.25 volts with no measurable milliamps. That fuse looked as if it had been quite hot. Probably when the regulator went toes up last year.

 

EDIT: Speaking of the wiring diagram, Where is the head temperature sensor? There appeears to be one on the right cylinder head , inboard, with a blue connector.