Battery draining through ECU

[Guest Nogbad]

You have to be careful with voltage measurements. A modern digital meter will have an impedance of a megohm or more on the voltage range so you could get some odd readings between the battery and the live side of a solid state switch such as a FET or thyristor.

 

If you are looking for current drains you need to be looking for current. Most good meters will measure down to the microamp level. Just be careful you are on the right range though. Start off high and work down. OK it's awkward because you have to split the circuit and put the meter in series, but across a relevant fuse is practical.

 

I'm off to buy a new current range fuse for my meter, or a new meter if it turns out to be obsolete. Will report reading on Fuse 1 later.

[Guest Nogbad]

READING ACROSS FUSE 1 DOES SHOW A CURRENT DRAIN WHICH ACCORDING TO MY NEW METER IS 704 uA (0.704 mA)

 

I think I'm going to pull fuse 1 whenever the bike is standing. This will also make it more difficult to steal as a bonus.

[callison]

Hey Dave, why not remove the starter lead for a day and see if there's still a drain. It's simple enough to do (cheap too!). Perhaps the starter solenoid is the culprit.

[dlaing]

READING ACROSS FUSE 1 DOES SHOW A CURRENT DRAIN WHICH ACCORDING TO MY NEW METER IS 704 uA (0.704 mA)

 

I think I'm going to pull fuse 1 whenever the bike is standing. This will also make it more difficult to steal as a bonus.

90669[/snapback]

Interesting.

So, we have Docc draining at 0.7, me draining away at 0.07A, Des and Luhbo showing voltage that may indicate about the same drainage, MotoGuzzinix draining at 0.007A, and Nogbad draining at 0.0007A

Carl, I disconnected the line to the starter, with no change.

But I did not try disconnecting the solenoid control wire, nor the taillight, the brake light, nor the rear turn signals, but I think I have disconnected everything else.

[luhbo]

...

But I did not try disconnecting the solenoid control wire, nor the taillight, the brake light, nor the rear turn signals, but I think I have disconnected everything else.

90692[/snapback]

 

Don't disconnect anything, it's not worth the time. Do you have winter already?

 

Hubert

[Guest Nogbad]

I'm draining at 6.13 Ah/year, so my battery will take about 5 years to discharge if its a 30Ah battery. Guzznixes will take about 6 months and you will take about 2.6 weeks to discharge.

 

I think I can stand that ok

[luhbo]

At work we actually have a project running in which a sensor shall stay awake even when you lock the car but let the roof open (insurance policy ). One requirement is the max. current in watch-mode, and this is more or less the most challenging task for the hardware engineers.

 

Maybe we see a similar effect here. If you shut down the engine, the ecu not just dies but just gets a signal to shut down the engine, store the last parameters and maybe faults and so on. You could say "close all the windows". But for this it has to stay connected to the battery of course.

 

If I find the time and nerve I will check at an opened ecu whether the cpu is alive when the rest is dead.

 

Hubert

[Desdinova]

I see a lot of us (me included... I said us) are getting bogged down in the numbers, but the issue still remains... on similar bikes... some people can leave the bike sit all winter and just hit the starter and drive off, while some of us can only let the bike sit for a few days or a couple of weeks and it doesn't have enough juice to start.

[Guest Nogbad]

I see a lot of us (me included... I said us) are getting bogged down in the numbers, but the issue still remains... on similar bikes... some people can leave the bike sit all winter and just hit the starter and drive off, while some of us can only let the bike sit for a few days or a couple of weeks and it doesn't have enough juice to start.

90713[/snapback]

 

Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the inside of the WM ECU?

[dlaing]

Don't disconnect anything, it's not worth the time. Do you have winter already?

 

Hubert

90696[/snapback]

Tell me about it!

I have just missed a month of riding.

I should just slam it back together and forget about it.

It would be nice if there was a wiring diagram.

Maybe I could nudge Wayne MacDonald for a beta of the TuneBoy diagnostic.

[callison]

I missed about a year and a half of riding FrankenSport while putting it back together and another 6 months trying to find out why the ECU fuse would blow when the throttle was whacked open. I never did find out why, just that changing the 5A fuse to a 7.5A one seems to have cured a marginally higher thn normal current draw when the ignition, fuel pump and anything else involved suddenly got tasked with more work to do. That's all time I wish I had back, but I don't. It's worse for the Sport 1100i. 200 miles in nearly 4 years. I'm going to get it running, really I am, but at this point, I may just transplant a V11 Sport engine into it along with wiring and use the spare engine for screwing around with. At the moment, I'd trade all of my Guzzi's for a Griso or a good down payment on a Norge.

[dlaing]

I have searched the web, High and Low, for a full 15M ECU schematic, and all I could find was that it may exist at

https://norme.orange.fiat.it/

and may have previously existed at

http://norme.fiat.it/html/pdf/

Is anyone capable of obtaining it?

 

This site was close,

http://www.clubdelcoupefiat.com/tecnica.htm

but not close enough

 

I also found a PDF for a marelli 16F

[dlaing]

I guess I will just put a switch in.

I am tiired of pulling the fuse.

[motoguzznix]

David

 

I acually measured the current at a 00' V11 (same black color than mine) across the fuse 1: it was zero!

So it is clear for me that my ECU has a fault. From the fuse 1 one wire leads to the ECU relay and an other one leads directly into the ECU. This is the wire where the current drains through the ECU.

I suppose the ECU needs that positive wire directly from fuse 1 not passing the relay.

[Ryland3210]

I guess I will just put a switch in.

I am tiired of pulling the fuse.

 

You might save yourself some trouble.

 

I was going to hook up a disconnect switch until I measured the leakage current.

 

I just measured the leakage on mine. It's only 1.12 milliamps! What that means is that the self discharge rate on my battery of just over 22 milliamps is the main factor. That just saved me the trouble of hooking up a disconnect switch, but it means I'll have to check my battery voltage every week or so.

 

Is your electrical circuit different from my '04 Sport so I has more leakage?