fork oil replacement and valve clearances

[Tim]

I think this may have been covered before but how do you remove the fork caps - do they just unscrew or is it trickier than that - any special tools needed?

 

also what's the proper valve clearances for a stock UK 2000 V11S? should I go with the book spec?

 

grateful for any help

 

Tim

[jrt]

forks:

For the 2000 model year, the instructions are to turn the adjuster counter-clockwise, then unscrew the fork cap. Drop the fork stanchion down some, then you can remove the cap from teh adjuster rod. So, not having done this- it doesn't look like there are any tricks. I'm sure someone will chime in if there is.

 

valves:

World spec for valves is 0.004" (0.1mm) intake and 0.006" (0.15) exhaust. Euro spec is as loose as 0.15/0.2 mm (or is it 0,15/0,2?). Either works well.

[Guest ratchethack]

Tim, I have the same bike with same 40 mm Marz fork. Jason is correct. I can't understand why it's necessary to back the compression & rebound adjusters off (counterclockwise) -- but that's what the shop manual calls for, so that's what I do. When the caps are free of the threads in the stanchions, block up the wheel -- I assume you've got the bike on a stand! -- so that the rod assemblies raise up for access to the blue anodized jam nuts. With a wrench on the jam nut and one on the cap, break 'em loose and unscrew the caps from the rod assemblies.

 

I highly recommend the World spec setting for the valves over the stock US settings. It will improve idle and rideability, among other things. Some (including me) actually run 'em at .006" and .008" for improved riding in hot weather...

[mdude]

so the fork springs are not loaded up when you remove the caps? thats what my mechanic told me...

[Guest ratchethack]

so the fork springs are not loaded up when you remove the caps? thats what my mechanic told me...

Yes, they're slightly loaded up, but with the front wheel off the ground, it isn't enough to be concerned about. You can easily overcome it by pushing down with mild force, so you don't have to STAND BACK when the last thread comes out!!

[DeBenGuzzi]

could someome put it in more elaborated terms on how to find TDC? I read that valve adjustment guide and I'm not totally sure on that. Also should I do the valves AND retorq the heads my bike has 13,500 on it.

 

PS what size is the spark plug, none of my deep wells fit they are all too small and my spark plug socket is too

 

BTW I did all the oils last night and it was pretty easy. I didn't change the oil filter this time because I've been told a local mechanical person that it can really be done every other time without any concern. Next time I'm dropping the pan and cleaning it out throughly BUT I need a bike stand for that and I don't currently have one so I went the easier route. On the rear drive why is there 3 plugs? I assume bottom to drain side? top fill? I can't see filling from the side. I really need a guzzi shop guide for dummies. But when you goto the dealer last time for new tires and they come to you asking how to get the bearing out (actually guy that works on guzzi's was out to lunch) I don't have a lot of confidence in my dealer.

[Guest ratchethack]

could someome put it in more elaborated terms on how to find TDC?

DeBen, valve clearance on each cylinder is set at TDC on the compression stroke (both intake and exhaust valves closed). You can be assured of this by rotating the crank - in direction of normal rotation ONLY (alternator cover off with a wrench on the crank nut) until the "D" mark (for TDC on the right cylinder) on the flywheel aligns with the static indicator mark through the flywheel window (black rubber plug, right-side of case). The "S" mark indicates TDC on the left-hand-side cylinder. With the spark plugs out, it's much easier to turn the crank. With rocker covers off, BOTH intake and exhaust rockers will have clearance under them at TDC on compression stroke. If not, rotate the crank thru 360 degrees until they BOTH have clearance (again - valves closed) with the correct timing mark on the flywheel aligned. This is where you set your valve clearances.

Also should I do the valves AND retorq the heads my bike has 13,500 on it. 

When were they last adjusted? The post-break-in factory interval for valve adjustment is 6K miles, but after re-torquing the heads and the first few valve adjustments most (including me) reckon you can safely go to double this interval or even longer. Were the heads re-torqued previously? Do you know? If you re-torque the heads, do it before adjusting the valves, and don't neglect to torque the "hidden" 10 mm socket-head bolts. There's one on each head. They're located under the o-ringed "plugs", and they're the most inboard head bolts. You'll need to remove the rocker spindles for access to 'em, and this is a mite ticklish, as you need to get all the rocker spindle springs and shims back in afterward in the exact sequence they came out.

PS what size is the spark plug, none of my deep wells fit they are all too small and my spark plug socket is too 

21 mm or 13/16".

On the rear drive why is there 3 plugs?

Top is fill/vent. Bottom is drain. Middle is level.

 

PS - I reckon not having confidence in y'er dealer's shop personnel is one of the VERY BEST reasons to DO IT Y'ERSELF!!!

 

Have fun, DeBen!

[DeBenGuzzi]

Dealer said it would be $440 for the service and I dunno about them like I said. well anyway I got the bike with 3800 on it so I know the 6K retorqin hasn't been done. I will get right on that. As soon as I find my torq wrench. I'll pay special attention to removing the rockers and putting them in the right way. I've had plenty of RC building experience so this shouldn't be a problem. I just got done throughly washing the princess now I need to see if I can find those plugs for the flywheel.

[Martin Barrett]

now I need to see if I can find those plugs for the flywheel. 

88390[/snapback]

 

Level with and in front of the gearbox sight glass

 

 

Edit - level meaning about 2 inches above

[grossohc]

Look In the picture Martin posted for bike of the month ( its the clean bit)

[DeBenGuzzi]

OH I see them now, thanks martin