Lamedog Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Just replaced tires on my new to me '02 LeMans. LHS rear sealed bearing was galled in two sections of outer race 180 degrees apart. Lots and lots of posts on this toipic... My stock spacer measured at 113.05+/0.02 mm, vs the wheel bearing seat face-face 112.3 +/-0.04. This seems to be consensus of the thread as an acceptable delta between spacer and seats. I'm pretty confident that when the wheel is torqued up there is a continuous stack across the axle in any case, though hard to check whats going on between bevel drive and wheel. Next is to measure the bearing holder tolerances (outta round?). Any thoughts? And has the "new spindle" group got enough actual experience to support this as a fix? The removable inner race for the needle bearing on the bevel drive is also worn from apparently fixed contact with needles on about 1/3 of the circumference. The bearing had a minor bit of grit, but cleaned up well in place. After reading the many threads on this topic, had planned to replace bearing and race. But I don't see a good reason other than wrenching is sort of fun. This spot doesn't move much since there is no rotation other than the minor flexing allowed by the torque bar during acceleration and braking. What am I missing? Seems like it will just repeat itself. (Assume the dents are caused by the weight of the bike sitting on the bottom needles with no rotation between succesive bearing replacements...) Thanks to those who recommended valve check and TB balance for my intermittent cutout on decelleration. TB's were dead on, but valves were tighter than even California spec. Setting them to 15/20 solved the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wick Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 I'm convinced that all the rear wheel spacers in the '02 and '03/02 bikes are suspect. I do hope that this isn't going to be an issue with my '04 models. All these bikes need to be checked for a too short spacer and probably before you need that new tire put on. Wick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 I cut a 1mm washer / shim to add to axle spacer on my 2002. Prior to that, bearings were wrecked within smallish mileage. Since then, bearings have been ok. Needle roller maybe isn't a priority for the reason that you give – it's just nice to start again with good parts and then try to keep them good. Who knows what the history was before you got the bike? Seems like the start fresh approach would be good with those rear bearings and spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamedog Posted June 8, 2006 Author Share Posted June 8, 2006 Thanks for your comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 One thought on wheel spacers for those who may have service shops of unknown and/or dubious reputation doing removal & installation of wheels and spindles for tire changes --- Over-torquing the spindle nuts with a rattle-gun or with a less-than-skilled feel on a non-torque wrench is one explanation for the cheesy OEM wheel spacers getting crushed down to even shorter dimensions than stock, which of course results in a prompt rooting of the wheel bearings.... It seems to be a pretty common thing...... My wheel spacers (and bearings) are intact. I take my wheels to a Pro who knows what he's doing for tire changes and I use a torque wrench by the book. Do you know who's wrenching on y'er bike behind closed doors?! The following possibility (see below) is the reason that NO ONE ELSE EVER puts a wrench on my Guzzi but me..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 How the hell did you get a hold of my passport photo??? Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballacraine Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Just for the record. Does anyone know what the stock dimension and tolerance should be? Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 How the hell did you get a hold of my passport photo??? Rj 91498[/snapback] The Ratchet works for the NSA, don't'cha'know!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Just for the record. Does anyone know what the stock dimension and tolerance should be? Nige. 91613[/snapback] I think Lamedog has proper dimensions, but if that is the case, why did his fail??? Probably just a lousy bearing gone bad...maybe the lube leaked out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stogieBill Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 I just changed tires on my Scura this last weekend. Less than 4K on the clock. The entire rear drive was dry. The needle bearuings, the drive splines and the shaft and universal. lucky for me there didn't appear to be any long term damage. There was a peculiar find though, the zerk fittings would not allow greasing. I took the one off the shaft near the connecting collar and ran down to my local parts store. Got lucky and bought 2 so I could replace the universal zerk also. Got home and swapped them out. The one on the shaft near the collar was a no brainer. The one for the universal joint came out in pieces! The main body, followed by a spring assembly. I looked into the screw galley and there was a clean (no grease ever) cup in the bottom. WTFO! A Luigi creation, right? Somebody tell me I DIDNT do a bad thing when I drilled the cup out and put in the new zerk fitting. I was careful to collect all the drill shavings and blew out the newly created grease access before greasing the joint. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slug Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 ... and I use a torque wrench by the book. 91488[/snapback] For the people who are too busy dressing up their race leathers, what's the proper torque for the rear wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badmotogoozer Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 How the hell did you get a copy of Heli-Jim's passport photo?? Rj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 There was a peculiar find though, the zerk fittings would not allow greasing. I took the one off the shaft near the connecting collar and ran down to my local parts store. Got lucky and bought 2 so I could replace the universal zerk also. Got home and swapped them out. The one on the shaft near the collar was a no brainer. The one for the universal joint came out in pieces! The main body, followed by a spring assembly. I looked into the screw galley and there was a clean (no grease ever) cup in the bottom. WTFO! A Luigi creation, right?91816[/snapback] A year or two ago I posted this interesting object. I also couldn't grease the thing. On inspection, I saw that the nipple was blocked. I started pulling the blockage out. What do you make of this?! (Nobody was interested back then, but I feel that at last I might have found someone with an interest in the subject.) and here it is out. Someone has fun fitting these at the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 What do you make of this?! Er, was it capable of movement under its own power?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 . . . what's the proper torque for the rear wheel? 120 Nm, or 88 ft-lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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