richard100t Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 Those are SWEET! I'm just installing my K&N pods now, and I'm wondering what people do with the air temp sensor that was mounted to the airbox? Just wire it up to the spine somewhere? Yes just try to keep it away from anything too hot
mark.gilmore Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 I'm not going to comment on the effectiveness of the pod filters because that horse has been beaten down harder than an oil thread. As long as they keep things like bugs, rats, crustaceans and Mormon missionaries from plugging up the intake, I'm happy. As for the weight and strain on the boots, there's really nothing to worry about. The weight of the stacks and filters aren't enough to push the TB's down more than 1mm. Also, at least on my bike, there's an aluminum support bar that connects the TBs together. The clearance between the center-bottom of the support bar and the top of the engine/gearbox case is about 5mm, so if you're really paranoid, you can wedge something between the two... Just took the bike for its first test ride with the new stacks & My15m, and I'm quite pleased. I've got a lot of adjusting to do on the map, there's a 1/2 to 1 1/2 second hesitation when I really crank on the throttle, but when it does kick in, holy crap! Major improvement, and not a knock to be heard. So here's how the beast looks now: Ha Slug Where'd you put the air temp sensor.
slug Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 Ha Slug Where'd you put the air temp sensor. I put the sensor in a little plastic box (little electronics project box like you'd get at Radio Shack) with a metric buttload of holes drilled in it. Then I extended the wiring and mounted the box in the little cavern between the insturment cluster and the headlight. If I put my windscreen back on I may move the box somewhere else to make sure I'm getting good air flow to the sensor. I'll post a pic of it tonight if I remember.
slug Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 So here's a question to those who've ditched the airbox for pods: What are you doing with all that extra space under the fuel tank? Here's a few ideas: - Mount an NO2 bottle (along with the rest of a NOS system). - Relocate the fuses/relays/ECU there for more underseat storage. - Install a mini-mini keg fridge - Under-tank DVD player? - Storage box for extra relays, fuses, shift return springs, rear wheel bearings, blinker fluid, rear brake pads. - Infant/Child seat? - Free speech zone?
jtucker Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 So here's a question to those who've ditched the airbox for pods: What are you doing with all that extra space under the fuel tank? I always thought it would be good for smuggling weed, but the heat could be a problem. May lead to a Cheech & Chong moment if you get pulled over by the law...
Tom M Posted July 18, 2006 Posted July 18, 2006 So here's a question to those who've ditched the airbox for pods: What are you doing with all that extra space under the fuel tank? Leave it open so the tow truck driver has a place to run his lifting strap after your pod filter has fallen off and you've sucked in a low flying buzzard
pShenk Posted July 18, 2006 Author Posted July 18, 2006 Pods are ON, and they work great. They are a little louder than stock, but I thought it would be more obvious. There's just a little extra percussive "honk" that is slightly offset from the exhaust note. It makes the whole symphony a little more burbley. I'm still trying to decide if I like it or not. And I'm still using the ECU that I got with the MG Ti silencers, so maybe I'd get more kick with some custom map. I like the idea of putting the sensor in a little box, but I'll probably mount it closer to the intake, just to be more accurate about what's coming into the pods. I doubt it makes a huge difference though. RIght now it's just zip-tied to the spine The only real downside is all the wiring and brake cable that's now exposed, running up the rear-right strut.
slug Posted July 18, 2006 Posted July 18, 2006 The only real downside is all the wiring and brake cable that's now exposed, running up the rear-right strut. Zip ties are your friend. I like them more than duct tape One more thing I'll post pics of is the cleanup job I did on the wiring. I used thick rubber splicing tape to wrap (almost) everything up in to one neat bundle. I know for a fact that it'll be a sticky mess when I have to unwrap it, but until I find some better cable management stuff, it'll have to do. Right now I just don't have the intestinal fortitude to subject myself to another trip to Radio Shack or Fry's
Guest Mr Eko Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 Ha Slug Where'd you put the air temp sensor. Mounted bmc air filters: I put it beside the frame, just under the fuel tank. open air... with a red bull can for oil vent and i learned that bmc need wiring (with brass wire)...
Admin Jaap Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 A thread on where you can stick your air temp sensor...
Guest Mr Eko Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 A thread on where you can stick your air temp sensor... oh thanks man
raceboy Posted August 30, 2008 Posted August 30, 2008 That's an oxygen sensor for the My15m ECU so it can adjust the fuel injection and spark advance. Don't quite have it dialed in yet, but from the one test ride, the bike runs a bit smoother. Bike looks great. Are you running 1 or 2 - O2 sensors...one in each pipe?? If not, why not? Can it be done? I'm gearing up to get an ECU kit from Cliff so inquiring minds need to know Raceboy
emry Posted August 30, 2008 Posted August 30, 2008 I have gone back to the pods I was running earlier. As for the aformentioned wires I completly rerouted the harness so it runs along the spine and the upper seat rails. The only things left going down are the seat cable, clutch, and starter wires / neutral. I will try and post a pic in the next day or two. It has been awhile since I did this and if I recall it was a major pain.
raz Posted August 31, 2008 Posted August 31, 2008 Bike looks great. Are you running 1 or 2 - O2 sensors...one in each pipe?? If not, why not? Can it be done? I'm gearing up to get an ECU kit from Cliff so inquiring minds need to know Raceboy Cliff himself says he experience very small differences between the cylinders so personally I've given up the idea of running two sensors. Just keep the TB's in synch.
motoguzznix Posted September 1, 2008 Posted September 1, 2008 I'm not going to comment on the effectiveness of the pod filters because that horse has been beaten down harder than an oil thread. As long as they keep things like bugs, rats, crustaceans and Mormon missionaries from plugging up the intake, I'm happy. As for the weight and strain on the boots, there's really nothing to worry about. The weight of the stacks and filters aren't enough to push the TB's down more than 1mm. Also, at least on my bike, there's an aluminum support bar that connects the TBs together. The clearance between the center-bottom of the support bar and the top of the engine/gearbox case is about 5mm, so if you're really paranoid, you can wedge something between the two... Just took the bike for its first test ride with the new stacks & My15m, and I'm quite pleased. I've got a lot of adjusting to do on the map, there's a 1/2 to 1 1/2 second hesitation when I really crank on the throttle, but when it does kick in, holy crap! Major improvement, and not a knock to be heard. So here's how the beast looks now: Did you shorten the stock exhaust cans? What mods have you applied? I modified the stock cans too and got a little more power on top with very little noise increase. The mods are somewhere in the "opening the stock cans" thread.
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