Tyre pressure vs handling

[Morris Sod]

Would like some feed back on optimum tyre pressures used on V11's. Have been running 34psi front and 38psi rear but feel the comfort factor suffers to compensate for good wear patterns and handling.

 

Any ideas on just how much pound variation can affect handling and wear.

Do the Euros measure in lbs/kgs/ or Bar?

 

I have a 2000 Rosso Mandello and comparing rear rim sizes with a Scura it appears that the RM rim size looks to be about 1/2 an inch smaller in width than the Scura. This seems to have the effect of pulling my 170 Pilot around more, slightly reducing the contact patch to the road, plus it leaves "chicken strips" and I can't seem to wear the little "Michelin Man" off the tyre, no matter how hard I try. Is there variation in wheel size widths coming out of the factory? :

[Guest ratchethack]

Morris, the 4.5" rear rim on the 2000 Sport and other variants shipped from Mandello with a 170, but many riders here, including me, have found that a 160 is far superior in terms of handling and feel. Likewise with the 180's that came on later 5.5" rims, the 170 seems the unanimous choice. As you've noted, when you downsize this way in tire width, you automatically use more of the available tread, substantially reducing the poultry strips.

 

I find that 34F and 37R is about perfect for me at 190 lbs with full leathers. Euros use bar. The elephants on my Metzeler Z6's (M1's previously) don't look much like elephants for long . . . . . . more like elephant feet with not much of anything left for 'em to attach to . . . . .

[Baldini]

I find something around Guzzi rec'd pressures mostly work fine on road (2.2/2.4 bar solo). We use lb's here , for me: 32f & 36 or 37r. Tyres differ & I found the Pilot Power 2CT's worked better on higher pressures. Lot of tyre manuf rec'd pressures around 36/42 & this seems to be a default recommendation for sportsbike tyres. However, Continental give 32/36 for the Sport Attacks I now have. It also depends how hard you use tyres as heat increases pressure, hence reduced pressures on track. However, too low pressures also generate heat by increasing tyre carcase movement. Tyres are a bit of a black art & things get more critical the more demand is put on them.

 

I agree w/Ratchet re using the smaller of the recommended fitments for better handling: in my case 170 on 5.5". But again, different tyres have different handling characteristics, some being much quicker steering; so, say a 180 Pilot Power may turn better than a 170 BT020 anyhow. However I'm not sure that you'll have a reduced contact patch using the 170 over the 160, & even if you did I don't believe it's an issue as there's plenty enough.

Also I think that for a given radius of turn at a given speed a bike on a wider tyre has to lean more than one on a narrower tyre so you will use more tread, other things being equal (which of course they never are & tyre deformation or other things unknown to me may counter that).

If your not getting to the edge of the 170 or 180 tyre, it's simply that you're not leaning it far enough over. All the rear tyres I've tried will safely reach the edge of their tread quickly on a good dry surface.

Fronts take much more lean to get to the edge & can differ greatly from tyre to tyre: the Diablos would edge at less lean than the Sport Attack which still has a chicken strip. The 2Ct went to the edge, but wether this is down to rider confidence (grip) or tyre design I'm not sure. Either way, on sports tyres, you're grinding various hard parts by then.

 

Another input to tyre wear is suspension set up. The better suspension, the better the wear - both amount & pattern.

 

I like tyres.

 

KB

[Morris Sod]

Thanks guys,

My old T5 had 130x16 and they hung on alright, so I guess going down to a 160 wont affect too much and might even be a bit cheepa. I have managed footpegs down on some hot mix a few times so I don't think getting it over far enough is the problem. But I will continue trying to knock off little Michelin man.

 

For all of their modular parts manufacture, why would they alter rim size between the v11 models?

Morris

[Guest ratchethack]

For all of their modular parts manufacture, why would they alter rim size between the v11 models?

Morris

Gotta have big wubba on the showroom floor to compete. It's eyewash.

[Guest Buddy]

36 psi front and rear for me on Bridgstone BT 020s. I find that anything less on the front and it feels loose when leaned over. I have 2000MY V11 Sport which had the 170 tyre originally. I now run a 180 which means it is a bit more reluctant to tip into corners, but more stable once leaned over.

[Guest ratchethack]

36 psi front and rear for me on Bridgstone BT 020s. I find that anything less on the front and it feels loose when leaned over. I have  2000MY V11 Sport which had the 170 tyre originally. I now run a 180 which means it is a bit more reluctant to tip into corners, but more stable once leaned over.

Uh, best not push it very hard with the 180. I'm not surprised by the looseness when leaned over - but it ain't comin' from the front end, my friend. You're 2 sizes beyond optimal for that 4.5" rear wheel. I'd be surprised if you didn't have the same substantial wallowing, looseness, and vague, unpredictable cornering that my Pal, who purchased his '00 Sport used with a 180 on it, experienced. Just looking at it was painful - the sidewalls were grossly distorted inward so far that it looked like the beads could pop out over a hard bump.

 

He went to a 160 on my advice and has been raving over the positive transformation in handling ever since.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[friskycutter]

Likewise, I recently switched from the 180 on 2001 down to a 160 and couldnt be happier. The bike felt like it had lost 20 LBS and all the stiffness into a turn was gone.

 

I switched to get a cheap tire when I needed it but I wont be switching back

[Baldini]

... from the 180 on 2001 down to a 160..

 

Is that a 4.5" rim?