Oil change frequency

[Woodburn]

I now have just over 3,000 trouble-free miles on my '01 V11 Sport that I picked up in December. The bike has been perfect. It's basically my weekend fun bike, and my other bike, a cruiser, is used for commuting during the week. Anyway, I had the oil changed at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles. The manual says I don't need to worry about it again until the 6000 mile mark. I'm just curious why they wouldn't recommend more frequent oil changes? I know it's good to do it every 3000 miles, which I plan to do, but I'm just curious why the manual would suggest such wide maintenance intervals. Any thoughts?

[mikie]

My many previous bikes' (mostly Hondas) owner manuals also gave wide intervals between oil change recommendations. As I recall, the intervals suggested for my CBR 929 was around 8,000 miles, which of course I didn't adhere to. For warranty purposes you're safe doing what the manufacturer suggests, but my own comfort level dictates that I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles. That's why I don't bother with synthetics.

[dlaing]

The manual also specifies Agip synthetic motorcycle oil which should more than double outlast conventional oils and the manual says to clean the sump out every 18.000 miles.

If you use conventional oil, you should change the oil every 3000 miles or in my opinion every 2000 miles. Semi-synthetics are probably good for 3000 to 5000.

Synthetics are probably good for 4000 to 10000 miles.

But your filter should not be trusted to last 10000 miles.

There are differences in quality amongst oils.

I say go with synthetic motorcycle oil every 6000miles.

I would use Agip, Amsoil, Maxima, Silkolene, Motul, or Moterex.

Although other more mass produced brands may also be ok like, Castrol, Mobil, and Valvoline.

Auto grade vs. Motorcycle grade is another issue. I am unsure, so I spend the extra money and get the motorcycle grade.

I was using Maxima Semi synthetic every 3000 miles. After 18,000 miles I switched to Motul Synthetic. I was happy to find the oil pan had NO SLUDGE. I am going to check the Motul for clarity and viscosity and the smell of fuel using the ol' see, feel, and smell technique. I think it will last 6000 miles pretty easily.

If not, I will change the schedule....or maybe try the Amsoil.

[Mike Stewart]

I don't use the extremly expensive motorcycle oil in my V11S, one of the main difference in motorcycle oil verse automotive oil is the additive for the wet clutch. There is also some additives in the oil to help with breakdown from heat. I say just go with Mobil 1 synthetic and change it more often. I know I will get some heat on this issue.

 

Mike

[Dirtybill]

 

The old oil issue

 

Did anyone read the long tests in Motorcycle Consumer News regarding oil? The bikes they used however were wet clutch bikes so some of the info may not be valid, but the testing they did was exhaustive and interesting. A very general consensus was that Amsoil, Motul, Redline and Mobil 1 were about the best. "Best" is a very vague term though as some oils were better at heat disipation than others, some had more anti-wear additives etc. The conclusive point though was that full synthetic is the way to go in bikes. Even if you change regularly, it doesn't break down nearly as quickly as dino oil.

 

Before I read these tests I would use dinosaur oil in everything I own. No more.

 

A question though. I noticed my local Wal Mart is now stocking 15-50 fully synth Mobil 1 which does NOT have the starburst energy saving logo on it and it says it's approved for all Japanese valve trains. 15-50 is what is reccomended for my Triumph so I'm wondering if this stuff is ok? It does not say on the bottle that it is bike oil and I believe it has a couple of checkered flags on it and says "New" or something to that effect.

[Guest russ]

There are some who have experienced leaky seals in bikes. I change my oil about every 3000 miles and have switched from Dino to a synth blend at 6000 and will change again at 8000 and then go full synth at 10000 I will change to Synth in the gearbox and rear at 10k as well. So far so good on the blend. The problem is that there are so many other factors that can affect the wear of your engine that any oil will probably last 100000 miles on a Goose if you do maintenance, change often and don't abuse it too badly.

[al_roethlisberger]

As far as frequency goes, it really depends on how often, how hard, and in what climate you ride. IMHO, the recommendations from the manufacturer are very generalized. If you ride very hard, or for a very long sustained distance... you may want to change more frequently.

 

But I'd just stick with whatever you are comfortable with.

 

And in regard to oil, I never was too picky about oil, except when it affected shifting, since I changed mine pretty frequently on the FJ. And in fact, I often used Castrol Synth Blend, and that seemed fine.

 

I suspect that any quality oil, petrol or synth, will work well as long as it is serviced regularly and fresh filters are maintained.

 

Since the LeMans has been in the shop so often, I've had the oil changed by them. But I would guess that once it is more often in my garage, and under my wrench, I'll probably use Mobil1, Castrol, Spectra, etc...

 

al

[Gio]

I have used Castrol 20w50 on my V11S since new (~27,000km ago) with regular changes every 5000km, and replacing the filter every other oil change (ie every 10,000km). I removed the oil pan last service and found some, but not what I thought was an unusual amount of residue.

 

I also use the same oil (only 10w40) in my ZR750 on which I have done over 90,000km (but changing the filter every 5000km also). Call me old fashioned but dino seems to work fine for me. Gio

[docc]

I have used Castrol 20w50 . . . with regular changes

Absotively, posilutely, cannot go wrong.

[Guest scott]

Got to love the 'ol oil discussion.

 

Like Dirtybill, I'm an avid reader of MCN (the best cycle mag around). What I've determined is that regular oil changes are the determining factor in most engines. But, in air cooled engines I think synthetics are best due to their abillity to not degrade under extreme heat. This is probably more important for those of us living in very hot climates and stuck in stop-n-go trafic I personally use Valvoline synthetic 20-50w in the engine and Redline manual trans oil in the tranny.

 

Happy riding!!

[Murray]

I think its worth remebering when this engine design rolled off the production line orginally in the 1960's it was designed for ease of maintance and long engine life (for the Italian police) it had three litres of 1960's oil sloshing around in the sump and a filter was a distant thought somewhere in the future. They are not exactly what you would call a high tech highly stresses motor (no matter how hard you think you ride it) I also work on the pricipal that the manufacturer has probally had more experince running these motors that the collective of this forum so I just run with whatever they recommend as they are supposed to be the experts in these cases.