Enzo Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 I tried to use the 'search' feature, but I couldn't find anything on replacement relays. I thought I'd seen it here before. What I want to know is where to go at an auto parts store to get our replacement Bosch or other relays. I was going to go to the VW place, but they've gone out of business. Can you get them at NAPA? Schucks? Auto Zone? etc. What part number would I ask for? Question: What would cause my 30 amp fuse to keep overheating? It does not actually break, it just starts to sort of melt inside - the plastic fogs over. Anybody seen this before?
Guest Nogbad Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 Question: What would cause my 30 amp fuse to keep overheating? It does not actually break, it just starts to sort of melt inside - the plastic fogs over. Anybody seen this before? I would hazard a guess that the problem is excessive current.........
dlaing Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 I would hazard a guess that the problem is excessive current......... Caused by... Bad Battery???? Bad Regulator??? Bad Wiring?? If it is a bad regulator or wiring, the relays may be somewhat toasted. Pyro Dan is the Relay Man! He is listed on my wonderful site that I just moved from work to geocities.com http://www.geocities.com/rcdlaing/
Enzo Posted July 16, 2006 Author Posted July 16, 2006 Thanks, Dlaing. Are you using these relays? They sound terrific. I'm wondering if I have a regulator problem. We'll see. I'm ordering 8 as soon as he opens tomorrow.
dlaing Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 Thanks, Dlaing. Are you using these relays? They sound terrific. I'm wondering if I have a regulator problem. We'll see. I'm ordering 8 as soon as he opens tomorrow. I am using two. The rest are Bosch. I believe I was Dan's first GEI customer. My 2 GEI relays are still going strong while the Bosch and Siemmens all failed many times for me when used as the starter relay. YMMV But it is cheap insurance. I am going to order a full set from him, just to give me piece of mind, having just replaced my regulator and a one year old battery. I am not sure if the battery killed the regulator or the other way around. I suspect the regulator killed the battery. My fuse did not blow when the regulator went bad, but the wiring sure did get cooked. You should check for voltage drop between the regulator and the battery. (Let us know if you need to know how to test that) If your fuse blew, your line may also be blown too. I think it is only 16 gauge wire, but it carries over 30amps when the fuse blows. According to this chart http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/product.../get_wired.html it is ok to use 16 Gauge, but I used 14 gauge when I rewired the new aftermarket regulator
antonio carroccio Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 Caused by... Bad Battery???? Bad Regulator??? Bad Wiring?? I have had the same problem. Just have changed the battery, Yuasa 12BS and a new alternator/regulator. I think one from Ducati will fix as the original one. Problem was solved
docc Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 When my regulator went bad last year I found the 30a fuse was all melting from heat. Why it never blew is one of those electickery mysteries.
Enzo Posted July 17, 2006 Author Posted July 17, 2006 How do I check the regulator to see if it is not working correctly?
antonio carroccio Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 Enzo, just cange it. The price will be around 40,- Euro (65 USD) That's not that much for a big guy like you. Alright no joking, buy a new one will solve this proble, trust us, your friends of this forum...................
dlaing Posted July 17, 2006 Posted July 17, 2006 How do I check the regulator to see if it is not working correctly? The simplest test is to attach a volt meter to the battery and check the voltage with the engine running. Idle voltage is probably pretty low and varies depending on idle setting and the load, but from what I saw the voltage will probably be in the 12.5 to 12.9 range. The critical test is at higher rpms. Make sure you are getting in the 14.0 to 14.6 voltage range from 3000 to 7000RPMs Test with headlight on, so that you have some load. If it is out of range, it may be the regulator and it may something else. From the manual REGULATOR The regulator has been calibrated in order to maintain the battery voltage at a value between 14÷14.6 Volts. The pilot light (illuminated when the engine is not running, but the key is inserted) will switch off when the generator begins to charge, (approx. 700 r.p.m.) REGULATOR CHECKS Normal work-shop tools are generally insufficient for regulator checking, however, listed below are certain operations that can be carried out in order to detect regulators that are defective. THE REGULATOR IS CERTAINLY DEFECTIVE IF: After having isolated it from the rest of the system short circuits can be detected between the earth (aluminum casing) and any of the output cables
Enzo Posted July 17, 2006 Author Posted July 17, 2006 Yes, I've already purchased a regulator from Todd at MPH, but they are $140 bucks. I might also take this opportunity to buy a very small and light battery while I'm at it. Always curious about that. I've seen batteries about half the size of the one we use. Any feedback on micro batteries????
docc Posted July 18, 2006 Posted July 18, 2006 Dlaing's voltage test is critical to assess the charging. As much as the Cobra has been 'tinkered' with it might be time for a thorough look at the wiring harness and connectors . Some bare wire against the frame would 'splain it all, yes?
Greg Field Posted July 18, 2006 Posted July 18, 2006 Enzo, since you won't listen to me, listen to Doc. Your wiring is as bad as any I've ever seen. And I see plenty of bad. SOmewhere along the line, someone hacked and spliced and used shit connectors and so none of it is trustable. It may have a short that took out the first reg/rect. and will do in the new one.
Enzo Posted July 18, 2006 Author Posted July 18, 2006 The first thing Jimmy and i did was to unpug and replug every connector we could find. I've had the tank off looking at the wiring. I don't seen any exposed wire or anything touching the frame. Could be, but I say the most likely candidate is a worn out regulator. It is consistent with the 30 amp fuse melting too. I'm getting a new regulator and these really cool GEI relays which are WAY bitchin.
Greg Field Posted July 18, 2006 Posted July 18, 2006 Enzo: You and Jimmy may have done all that, but you did not spot the two frayed wires to the electric petcock. These are far more exposed and easy to see than most of the rest of the wiring. If you missed these, imagine what else you might have missed. It certainly could be the regulator, but it might not be. Remember the first fuse, way back on Wind River Road? Its plastic sheath was melted before it blew. That's from heat. Heat comes from resistance, as VG has already pointed out. Over current alone will just instantly blow the fuse. Just consider the possibility that you have multiple intermittant problems going on here. Such problems are the most frustrating to find and solve. Keep this in mind so that you do not get discouraged if the first attempt at fixing it fails. And look to all the shit that was changed or modified first.
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