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A quick question about relay replacement


Enzo

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Seems like my regulator was about $400. Ouch to burn up a second one even at $145. Definately worth unwrapping every splice. Voltage drop tests may be helpful as well.

 

Here in Lower Middle Tennessee , we're specialists in faulty wiring. Can be handy for insurance purposes. :rolleyes:

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Just in case anyone hadn't seen my charge light thread - this was my burnt out connector.

 

070306002.jpg

 

And six months on I'm having other issues, and still trying to bottom out if its bad connections or someting else. It went to Haywards and couldn't identify what was wrong but a clean up of the connectors and fuse block got it working. I put my original regulator back on and the symptons started again with the charge light on just over tickover but going out. 3 days later it's back to being on all the time again. Put the new regulator back on and it's still playing up. :angry:

 

The UK price for a regulator is £102. :(

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Just in case anyone hadn't seen my charge light thread - this was my burnt out connector.

 

070306002.jpg

 

And six months on I'm having other issues, and still trying to bottom out if its bad connections or someting else. It went to Haywards and couldn't identify what was wrong but a clean up of the connectors and fuse block got it working. I put my original regulator back on and the symptons started again with the charge light on just over tickover but going out. 3 days later it's back to being on all the time again. Put the new regulator back on and it's still playing up. :angry:

 

The UK price for a regulator is £102. :(

 

Have you checked the alternator brushes,Martin?

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Have you checked the alternator brushes,Martin?

 

Do we have brushes. From the parts diagrams I'd assumed we didn't :homer:

I replaced those on my RD200DX 25 years ago.

 

The chap at Haywards said the out put was within limits. I don't have a clue with whats going on :(

I think she might be having a holiday at Cambridge, that way he can deal with the seized altenator cover bolts :D I've had enougth experiance of sheared bolts and extractors to last a life time.

 

It's true is a passion of the heart. The extremes I feel towards my Guzzi. :wub: / :angry:

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The ONLY acceptable method of joining wire is to make a full butt contact, minimally solder, then encapsulate in shrink tubing. Just think: "Go with the flow'. :nerd:

I am not sure what you mean by "full butt contact" ;)

I would say the best connection is a Western Union Splice

32NE0334.GIF

Don't forget to put the shrink-wrap on the wire before soldering :)

But I have often been too lazy to do a western union and just do a rat's tail...but there is no excuse...

Posi Lock and Posi Seal are also very acceptable in my opinion...and have the advantage of semi-quick detachability.

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Do we have brushes. From the parts diagrams I'd assumed we didn't :homer:

I replaced those on my RD200DX 25 years ago.

 

The chap at Haywards said the out put was within limits. I don't have a clue with whats going on :(

I think she might be having a holiday at Cambridge, that way he can deal with the seized altenator cover bolts :D I've had enougth experiance of sheared bolts and extractors to last a life time.

 

It's true is a passion of the heart. The extremes I feel towards my Guzzi. :wub: / :angry:

 

I just assumed that they did,I never actually thought that they wouldnt. Just the intermittent problems sounded like a brush sticking or being knocked back out if it's worn.

Electrics aren't my strong point :huh2: but I assumed that the wires coming out would be connected to brushes.

Anybody know? Carl?

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I have always used Posi-lock connectors. I don't know what Field is tripping about. All the electrics that I have done have been inconsequential blinkers. I DID take off the dash, but most of those wires are just cut off - no possibility of causing a ground. I also have some rubbish connected to the battery for heat vests and one for a fuzz buster. That is all I have done. Field put on the switch controls so I assume that is all good work. Nothing else to wonder about.

 

The symptoms are these: With all new fuses and relays the bike starts up and takes off. Soon, there are problems - the horn doesn't work, the brake light is out and it is running like crap. At this point it will die. Upon inspection you find that the 30 amp battery fuse is melted, and the 5 amp fuse which controls the signals is broken. The relay that controls the horn, the fuel pump, and the brake light is cooked.

 

I don't see any exposed wires, and the battery terminals are clear of the frame. That's all I know. I don't know how to work a volt meter and would have no idea what the readings were telling me. All I can assume is that the voltage regulator is burnt up and is not only causing voltage spikes but possible some sort of grounding effect.

 

I just received my awesome looking relays from Pyro Dan. Todd's regulator will arrive tomorrow. If this doesn't' work I will take the bike apart and put it into boxes for Ebay. After that it will be Honda from here on out.

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Enzo:

 

You know damn well what I'm talking about: a rat's nest of shitty wiring patches throughout your bike. I've pointed it out to you several times. Each time you have told me how screwed up the wiring was made by the previous owner.

 

Sell the Cobra or put it out of its misery. Why torture such a fine machine?

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You've cut the 'dash' out and consider this to be okey-dokey? Sounds like an electrical nightmare. An aftenoon of VOM investigation and isolation might turn the culprit(s) up but the price of micro -beer alone could be cost prohibitive.

 

Has Ebay become the digital junk-yard?

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Yes, that insane fucker who owned the bike before me did some real witchcraft wiring on it with SPEAKER wires I swear to god. However, I think most of it has been pulled out and sent back to Hell where it didst come. I am willing to ply any electronics man with fine Diamond Knot all day long to put a meter on it. Enzo pays well.

 

But first I will try my 'intuitive diagnostics' on it and see what happens.

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Yes, that insane fucker who owned the bike before me did some real witchcraft wiring on it with SPEAKER wires I swear to god. However, I think most of it has been pulled out and sent back to Hell where it didst come. I am willing to ply any electronics man with fine Diamond Knot all day long to put a meter on it. Enzo pays well.

 

But first I will try my 'intuitive diagnostics' on it and see what happens.

 

My last bike had the wiring harness hacked up by the previous owner. Rather than try to fix it I just bought a used one off of ebay for $20. I think that would be a good permanent solution to your electrical problems.

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