Guest SoCalDon Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 I can do my Tonti frame bikes in my sleep so when my buddy whith his new (for him) 2002 Lemans needs some help he gives me a call. Is there some documented collective wisdom on TPS / TB balanceing?
Dan M Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 I can do my Tonti frame bikes in my sleep so when my buddy whith his new (for him) 2002 Lemans needs some help he gives me a call. Is there some documented collective wisdom on TPS / TB balanceing? Search the "how to" forum - many posts
Kiwi Dave Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 I actually use the procedure you posted some time ago, Don. The only difference is the TPS is on the top of the RH injector body. Everything else should work out fine.
Guest ratchethack Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 I've always found Carl Allison's write-up here to be an excellent resource: http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/tps/TPS.html
guzzi jon Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 I'm the goon trying to set my TPS before a dyno link session tomorrow. Couldn't get the torx screws loose, but it's at 180mv versus the required 150 mv with the linkage disconnected and the idle screw backed out on the right side, seems about the same running or not running. As long as I keep the 180 mv baseline, should I expect other issues after dyno linking? Cheers, Jon 02 Lemans
luhbo Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 ... As long as I keep the 180 mv baseline, should I expect other issues after dyno linking? Cheers, Jon 02 Lemans You then cannot use 1 to 1 any other offset maps that may be based on the correct 150mV baseline, albeit some proffessionals say the baseline is of no importance if you use a PC and so probably most PC maps have completely different baselines anyway. Will you stay in the shop and watch them tuning your bike? Hubert
Guest ratchethack Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 So Jon, was Don running advance recon f'er ya on this? I've been tweaking my TPS for a coupla years, balancing it against idle RPM. Hubert makes a good point WRT interchangeability of maps. IMHO, while you can start with a baseline 180 mv, I'd be slighly more comfortable starting with 150 mv. Shouldn't make a whole lotta difference either way unless y'er likely to swap maps, and you can always tweak it a little afterward if you feel like it. IMHO, best take TPS readings at different temp's and use a "normed" setting, as it's hard to get it exactly consistent. Don't go f'er perfection here -- it's an exercise in futility...... I found it convenient to back-probe the connector at the TB (top and bottom pins) with a couple inches of bell wire on each run thru the rubber boot with spade connectors on em and zip-tie 'em back against the connector, semi-permanent-like, for a quick & easy read any time. If you replace the torx screws that locate the TPS with a nice set o' stainless button-head screws, it makes y'er relationship with y'er TPS much happier. Hey Jon - d'ya think you coulda picked a WARMER day f'er a dyno pull?!?!? Make sure the fan's on HIGH!!!!!!! Have fun!
Mr. Bean Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 I'm the goon trying to set my TPS before a dyno link session tomorrow. Couldn't get the torx screws loose, but it's at 180mv versus the required 150 mv with the linkage disconnected and the idle screw backed out on the right side, seems about the same running or not running. As long as I keep the 180 mv baseline, should I expect other issues after dyno linking? Cheers, Jon 02 Lemans Did you slide the cold start fast idle cam off the assembly? The TPS is SUPER sensitive and leaving that on my be enough to bump it up to 180mv. You just have to remove the c-clip...be carefull when doing this as it has a tendancy to jump and try to hide in the corner of the garage . I use a tip I learned somehwere on this site to put a piece of tape beihind it to catch it. Then the cam will just slide down off the pin. Randy
Guest ratchethack Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 Did you slide the cold start fast idle cam off the assembly? The TPS is SUPER sensitive and leaving that on my be enough to bump it up to 180mv. You just have to remove the c-clip...be carefull when doing this as it has a tendancy to jump and try to hide in the corner of the garage . I use a tip I learned somehwere on this site to put a piece of tape beihind it to catch it. Then the cam will just slide down off the pin. Randy Far easier and less risky than taking off the clip is to back off the adjuster screw that locates the fast-idle cam assembly. Then you can re-set it afterward so the wheel that contacts the actuating cam just spins at idle with the idle advance lever on the bar fully off. Gives a more effective range of adjustability at the bar.
guzzi jon Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 Thanks for the input gents, I did have Don doing some recon for me. For what its worth, I warmed the bad boy up well, then pulled the rod and backed off the right side idle set screw to get the min. I inserted pins in the connector on the TB and took measurements off my fluke VOM. I will not likely be switching maps, Louie at L&L Motosports is a well known expert at dyno linking guzzis, all the so cal'ers use his service. My only concern is that he is 2100 ft altitude and it will be fairly warm. I opened up my air box and while riding in the 113 heat, I did notice that my Lemans wheelies fairly easy now, but the throttle response is not what I need. The bikes I've had Louie do are the best running Guzzi's in the land, so I look forward to tomorrows festivities. I'll post the map if anyone wants it, simply FBF crossover, Misral pipes, open airbox.,.. Cheers, Jon
guzzi jon Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 Did I mention its hot? 113 right now, AC is dead, pool is so warm it does not cool you off.... beer is my only friend..... However, my Lemans warms up really fast when its 110+
dlaing Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 Did I mention its hot? 113 right now, AC is dead, pool is so warm it does not cool you off.... beer is my only friend..... However, my Lemans warms up really fast when its 110+ Those type of comments belong in the global warming thread, not here!!! (just joking ) But seriously, I think dynoing in hot weather at a moderately high altitude will be fine. Louie is smart and patient enough not to over heat your bike.
Guest SoCalDon Posted July 22, 2006 Posted July 22, 2006 Those type of comments belong in the global warming thread, not here!!! (just joking ) But seriously, I think dynoing in hot weather at a moderately high altitude will be fine. Louie is smart and patient enough not to over heat your bike. Good advice guys, I'm glad it's the same...
luhbo Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 Dynoing the bike under extreme conditions is not a good idea. The resulting correction table will be based on the extremes of the OEM correction tables, and these are likely not to be the correct ones. At least there are different ones around. I'd suggest waiting for more average wether conditions. Hubert
guzzi jon Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 Did the dyno deed this morning, it was 107 degrees F, and we were at 2100 ft elevation, still pulled a bit over 84 hp and 65 ft/lbs of torque after mapping. runs great, on the way back came to a long mountain straight and pulled a bit over 135 on the speedo with more available
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