mikie Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Will someone please tell me the size of oil filter wrench I need to buy for the '02 LeMans? I had a friend who owns a machine shop make me a very nice hex tool for access, so now I just need a normal socket for the filter. Thanks in advance.
Mike Stewart Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 The filter wrench is an odd size. I have tried the Snap-On tool man, auto parts stores and while some wrenches are close, none of them will get the filter off. I finally just bought one from a Guzzi dealer, it was not made by Guzzi but some other bike company. It also fits Ducati, so just go to your nearest Ducati dealer to pick one up. I would bring in a Guzzi filter with you when purchasing the wrench. Mike
Mike Stewart Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Oh yea, Don't think the oil change is the same as on a BMW R1100RS, DRAIN THE ENGINE OIL FIRST before removing the cover for the filter. On the BMW, the cover allows access to the filter, on the Guzzi, the filter is submerged in oil, removing the cover without draining the oil will cause a mess on your garage floor. Don't ask how I know! Maybe this topic should be under the Dumb Ass Award... Mike
Guest geezerx Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 The one I use on a V11S is octogon shaped measuring a loose 2 & 15/16 inches across. Not sure what that is in funny numbers . Anyway, it is a Vector part # 17030. I think they are available at Walmart, etc.
mikie Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 Thanks for the input and the cautions. I was going to buy a filter tool from Proitalia, until I discovered they want $111.00 for it, at which time I figured I could scrounge something else up that would do. While I haven't yet changed the oil/filter on my Guzzi, I kinda thought the process might be frought with issues that are not common on other bikes. I guess I'd better pick up a workshop manual.
Guest Bob in CT Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Any dealer that is a Parts Unlimited dealer can get order you the proper cup wrench. Comes packaged in Drag Specialties. Cost about $10.00 If the filter is cranked on there,even the proper wrench won't work! Plan on dropping the pan. Bob
docc Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 I got my aluminum cup wrench from my Guzzi dealer to the tune of 50 or 60 dollars. It really is a nicely machined piece. But when it arrived it lacks the hex drive to remove the cover. I found that the axle nut can be used to remove the cover.
Guest Le Man Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 Mike, Thanks for the heads up on changing just the filter!! I have already done my first oil change (1400 miles) but did it without the filter thinking I would do that today just before going riding... I think now I'll run this pan of oil for another K or so and do it all together. Hey..is it really neccesary to torque the heads on the first check?? Another question..what's all this I hear about using wider valve settings? It seems to me that the wider settings will only delay valve opening and decrease duration. Any thoughts? Mike
Mike Stewart Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 Mike the Le man, Retorqing the heads is a good idea. Has to do with engine expansion and contraction and letting the parts settle. Retorquing will make the cylinder/head clamping force even again. I use larger valve lash specs. mainly because it takes away the engine dying sydrome when hot on my 00 V11Sport. You are correct on saying that there is slightly less valve lift and the cam duration is also decreased. You will find a rock steady idle at a lower rpm. and a little more low end torque. On the down side, you may loose some on the top end. Only a dyno will know for sure. I am talking about euro. specs. not the US. noise emission specs. , I did notice that in 2003, the manuel calls for the euro. spec. only. Mike
Guest Le Man Posted May 18, 2003 Posted May 18, 2003 Mike, I do agree with you on touching up the head torque, I think there may be stud stretch early on as well as any number of little growing pains. What I do have an issue with is the method suggested in this forum in the maintenance section..it suggests backing all the nuts off at once and then retorquing in steps. This concerns me. I would prefer backing off one at a time and then bringing it up to torque in one move. I am not a nitpicker when it comes to this stuff but backing off all the head bolts sounds like asking for trouble. I welcome any thoughts on this..BTW the "euro specs" are .006 in and .008 ex. ,yes?? This being Saturday I went out for "lunch" (put on about 187 miles) in heat you could not believe. anywhere from 92 to 98 degrees and even had to sit in traffic for a while. Bike seemed fine and dandy..do these things ever get hot? Does anyone run head temp or exhaust temp gauges? (not that you could do anything about it except worry) Mikey Le Man
Mike Stewart Posted May 18, 2003 Posted May 18, 2003 Mike, I agree with you on just loosening up one head bolt at a time. In the automotive world, that is how it is done. Weather it be water cooled or aircooled. The specs. for the valves are .004 intake and .006 exhaust which are the euro specs. I currently use .006 intake and .008 exhaust on my 00 V11Sport. The Guzzi's do pretty good in the heat. Nothing like my BMW R1100RSL, after 10 min. in the heavy traffic, it felt like it was going to have a melt down between my legs. That is one good thing to say about not having a temp. gauge, no gauge, no worries! Clever these Guzzi engineers. Mike
Baldini Posted May 19, 2003 Posted May 19, 2003 Le Man, Do I read you right - that you ease off and then bring up to torque each head bolt, one at a time, before doing same on next bolt? Thanks, KB
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