Removing rear wheel

[pShenk]

Ok, got it all cleaned and greased. Any confirmation on the 88 ft/lbs torque setting? I read in another thread that it can screw up the wheel bearings if the torque is too high.

[Guest ratchethack]

Ok, got it all cleaned and greased. Any confirmation on the 88 ft/lbs torque setting? I read in another thread that it can screw up the wheel bearings if the torque is too high.

120 Nm, or 88 ft-lb.

 

SOURCE: Service Manual, MOTO GUZZI S.p.A., Cod. 01 92 01 31.

[pShenk]

120 Nm, or 88 ft-lb.

 

SOURCE: Service Manual, MOTO GUZZI S.p.A., Cod. 01 92 01 31.

 

Thanks Ratchet! I've got a service manual on order, but hasn't come in yet. Actually, it's been awhile, I should check up on that.

[Guest h8chains]

After 3,300 miles, it's my turn to remove the worn out stock rear tire, Metzeler M1. I manage to get it off by simply reading this thread. Thanks to all and unfortunately learned from others who made mistakes.

 

On the left side rear arm, there's a pin , in the parts catalog its #34 - Special Screw, and a cotter pin is attached to the inside end. This is the same pin where the brake caliper bracket is screwed on. Using a hex key, I can twist it, but it will not come out. Is there anything keeping it from sliding out? It surely will be a lot easier to put the rear wheel back when I get it tomorrow if that pin is out of the way.

 

Thanks for your input.

[dlaing]

After 3,300 miles, it's my turn to remove the worn out stock rear tire, Metzeler M1. I manage to get it off by simply reading this thread. Thanks to all and unfortunately learned from others who made mistakes.

 

On the left side rear arm, there's a pin , in the parts catalog its #34 - Special Screw, and a cotter pin is attached to the inside end. This is the same pin where the brake caliper bracket is screwed on. Using a hex key, I can twist it, but it will not come out. Is there anything keeping it from sliding out? It surely will be a lot easier to put the rear wheel back when I get it tomorrow if that pin is out of the way.

 

Thanks for your input.

It is a piece of cake to pu the rear wheel back with the pin in place.

Just put the rear wheel on to the rear drive,

shove the axle in to just before it pokes out of the wheel so there is room to slide in the brake bracket,

From below the disk, slide the caliper on to the disk than bring the caliper and bracket upward so it alligns nicely for the axle to slide through.

I usually support the wheel with a 2x4 cantilever under the tire so that the axle can push relatively straight through.

I hope that helps.

But I am a little concerned about the bolt just turning. Mine doesn't, it just comes off.

If it were to fall out, it could cause your rear end to lock up

Your threads could be stripped.

Any second opinions on that?

I don't want to get you all paranoid about nothing.

Maybe it is normal.

[Guest ratchethack]

On the left side rear arm, there's a pin , in the parts catalog its #34 - Special Screw, and a cotter pin is attached to the inside end. This is the same pin where the brake caliper bracket is screwed on. Using a hex key, I can twist it, but it will not come out. Is there anything keeping it from sliding out? It surely will be a lot easier to put the rear wheel back when I get it tomorrow if that pin is out of the way.

Now this is from memory, which is a little foggy on this. My Pal's '04 LM has this arrangement also. It's different than mine, which has no hex bolt or cotter, just a permanent peg that the sliding block for the caliper carrier slips over.

 

IIRC, I remember thinking the hex bolt and cotter was an "improvement" over wot I've got. This must mean that it's easier to use. If it was easier to use, the hex bolt must come out -- otherwise there'd be no improvement. But the way it comes out and wot it threads into has escaped me. . .

 

Have you tried tapping it out from the inside?

[Guest h8chains]

I had the impression that the screw (pin) should screw out. It turns both ways, but backing it out is so limited. I don't think it's held by a circlip. Just have to look closer with a flashlight and use more muscle.

 

Btw, the tire that came off, I can barely see the carcass. It's a good timing since I'm for a good 250 mile ride tomorrow.

 

Thanks guys.

[dlaing]

I am pretty sure my 2000 screw into the swing arm and then the cube like thing fits on a the end of the screw. The brake bracket slides over the cube like thing.

But according to the parts catalogs the 2000 has no cotter pin and the 2003 has a cotter pin and looks different.

[Skeeve]

Nogbad, what's the bevel box? I assume that's the thing I was calling the gearbox... at the end of the shaft drive?

 

I know this is almost a year out of date now, but just for the record: you're both right. You could call it a gearbox [altho' that term is usually reserved for a case w/ selectable gears, in order to vary the ratios between input & output shafts], but it's more correctly termed "the bevel box" because it has a pair of bevel gears in order to turn the driveshaft output thru 90 degrees, as Ratchet said in reply way back when.

 

But we all pretty much knew what you were referring to when you used "gearbox" when discussing rear wheel removal...

[Guest h8chains]

I am pretty sure my 2000 screw into the swing arm and then the cube like thing fits on a the end of the screw. The brake bracket slides over the cube like thing.

But according to the parts catalogs the 2000 has no cotter pin and the 2003 has a cotter pin and looks different.

 

Got the screw out by using a long 6mm L-hex key. It was mighty tight, but eventually it came off. Looks like there was some residue of a threadlocker (makes sense).

 

It's a relief I can put back the wheel without tight maneuvering and eliminating the possibitlity of adding more scratches on the rim as I did when I took the wheel off.

 

Thanks David and Ratchet for your help.

[dlaing]

So, there was no cotter pin?

Interesting....

That bolt is surely a good place to use Loctite or other thread locking compound

[Guest h8chains]

So, there was no cotter pin?

Interesting....

That bolt is surely a good place to use Loctite or other thread locking compound

 

 

Yes, there's a cotter pin. It took me a over an hour to put back the wheel. The threaded hole where the screw goes through the left swing arm was stripped, could not find a tap. Have to use a smaller tap with same pitch and oscillated it around the hole and it worked. Everything on and torqued, then I saw this small steel block 1/2 x 3/4 with a 1/4 dia hole laying on the floor. Shoot, this piece is not even in the parts catalogue, but this goes inside the triangular bracket and the threaded pin goes through the hole and out of the bracket. Finally, the cotter pin is inserted.

 

I think we should consolidate all the wheel removal and replacement posting and make 1 clear write-up, instead of bits and pieces.

 

Tomorrow I ride!