MyECU replacement

[guzzijack]

Cool , thanks a lot for that info , will be getting that.

If there is any code number on the fiat box , let me know.Does it write 16F on it or that's how this ECU box is called?

 

Yes,

 

Should have WM 16F in big writing on the sticker on the back of the box.

 

Graham

[Alex-Corsa]

Yes,

 

Should have WM 16F in big writing on the sticker on the back of the box.

 

Graham

 

 

O.K., got it now

[luhbo]

After two evenings of busy comparing color codes, bending pins and soldering, my My15M_MK2 is almost ready. Only the connector is still missing.

 

On the pictures you see the tools I used for that, nothing special:

 

 

 

Here the PCB a bit bigger:

 

 

 

Another option for placing the O2 probe:

 

 

 

Hubert

[slug]

Nice work Hubert!

 

Good idea with the thermal paste on the two heatsinks. I think I'll squirt a little under mine next time I have the ECU out. I'm strongly considering moving my O2 sensor back around the area you put yours. My sensor is starting to overheat, and I'm afraid I may have cooked it already Before I move it I'm installing a heatsink on the sensor, hopefully that will help.

 

Cheers,

[Paul Minnaert]

I hope soldering the two transisistors? on the right didn't kill them.

[luhbo]

I hope soldering the two transisistors? on the right didn't kill them.

 

Hopefully not! But if so this would surprise me.

[slug]

I hope soldering the two transisistors? on the right didn't kill them.

 

Nah, they're pretty tough. I probably have more solder gobbed on mine than Hubert's and they're just fine.

[luhbo]

Just see it as a Run In. They'll never fail after that.

 

Slug, how does it come you think your probe is overheating? I think I remember to have read about recommended 30 cm behind the valve somewhere.

 

Nevertheless, I've found this position to be one of the most elegant possible. It's hidden a bit below the starter, the cable goes right into the chassis and last but not least the probe sees not only one cylinder. In fact I could imagine that at this position the two exhaust flows have already completely mixed up because of the turbulences I expect to be there.

Placing the probe on a pipe could be a real disadvantage in situations when one cylinder is leaner/richer than the other. The ecu will lean out the richer, so the leaner one gets even leaner! The OEM maps show remarkable differences between left and right.

 

These wideband probes are run on a controller that should be able to cope with varying probe temperatures.

 

Hubert

[slug]

Just see it as a Run In. They'll never fail after that.

 

Slug, how does it come you think your probe is overheating? I think I remember to have read about recommended 30 cm behind the valve somewhere.

 

Nevertheless, I've found this position to be one of the most elegant possible. It's hidden a bit below the starter, the cable goes right into the chassis and last but not least the probe sees not only one cylinder. In fact I could imagine that at this position the two exhaust flows have already completely mixed up because of the turbulences I expect to be there.

Placing the probe on a pipe could be a real disadvantage in situations when one cylinder is leaner/richer than the other. The ecu will lean out the richer, so the leaner one gets even leaner! The OEM maps show remarkable differences between left and right.

 

These wideband probes are run on a controller that should be able to cope with varying probe temperatures.

 

Hubert

 

The Innovate LC-1 controller has an output for an indicator LED (and doubles as a reset switch when shorted). If there's a problem the LED will blink an error code. After all the strange behavior I hooked up the LED where I can see it while riding and as soon as the bike started running like crap the indicator started giving the overheat error (the sensor body temp is over 900f).

 

I put the heatsink on the sensor today and it seems to help, but I'm still going to relocate the sensor when I get a chance. I looked last night and found a good spot on the x-over (its an FBF crossover, so while I'm at it I'm going to weld some support tabs on it). It's about 2" past the joined section on the top of the pipe and the top of the sensor fits nicely between some of the sub-frame (all the tubes connected to the pork chops). Totally hidden Once again, I must remember to weld the bung on WITHOUT the plug screwed in all the way (if you want the gory details...)

[dlaing]

The Innovate LC-1 controller has an output for an indicator LED (and doubles as a reset switch when shorted). If there's a problem the LED will blink an error code. After all the strange behavior I hooked up the LED where I can see it while riding and as soon as the bike started running like crap the indicator started giving the overheat error (the sensor body temp is over 900f).

 

I put the heatsink on the sensor today and it seems to help, but I'm still going to relocate the sensor when I get a chance. I looked last night and found a good spot on the x-over (its an FBF crossover, so while I'm at it I'm going to weld some support tabs on it). It's about 2" past the joined section on the top of the pipe and the top of the sensor fits nicely between some of the sub-frame (all the tubes connected to the pork chops). Totally hidden Once again, I must remember to weld the bung on WITHOUT the plug screwed in all the way (if you want the gory details...)

Could it be, you just need to retard the timing or enrichen the mixture or modify what the ECU does with the O2 sensor output, to keep it the sensor cooler???....and or add an even bigger additional heat sink

This is kind of disappointing as I really wanted to place my sensor where yours is

[slug]

Could it be, you just need to retard the timing or enrichen the mixture or modify what the ECU does with the O2 sensor output, to keep it the sensor cooler???....and or add an even bigger additional heat sink

This is kind of disappointing as I really wanted to place my sensor where yours is

 

Yeah, my map is far from sorted.

 

Don't fret about the position just yet, I rode Dirty Bird in to work and the heat sink from Innovate that I installed yesterday seems to be doing the trick. I'll keep you posted.

 

Also, my case is out of the ordinary. It's been somewhat hot here in Seattle and I've been making a lot of changes to the bike all at once (new ECU, crossover, velocity stacks w/pod filters, new Mistrals on the way ) I also had a couple of hardware/firmware issues with the ECU and Optimizer (which Cliff was extremely quick in helping get things fixed ) so Dirty Bird has been running kinda lean. I have dyno time scheduled in two weeks so everything should be sorted soon. Worst part is that I've barely put 500 miles on the bike this summer

[Alex-Corsa]

You can see here DYNO GALLERY where I have instaled the sensor of my LC-1 .It works perfekt (warming at switch-on, indicator ,ect.ect.)

[slug]

You can see here DYNO GALLERY where I have instaled the sensor of my LC-1 .It works perfekt (warming at switch-on, indicator ,ect.ect.)

 

Alex,

 

With your LC-1 and your 16M configuration, are you setting your target O2 sensor voltages to negative or positive?

[Cliff]

Alex,

 

With your LC-1 and your 16M configuration, are you setting your target O2 sensor voltages to negative or positive?

 

For the MyECU map, if your setup up produces higher voltages for richer then you need +ve numbers.

If however your setup produces higher voltages for leaner, you need -ve.

 

You should verify operation by tweaking the mixture and seeing the voltage go the way you expect.

With the optimiser you can easily adjust the mixture from the autotune menu when running openloop by turning the pot. You can do this while idling.

[jenslh]

Last winter I build the My16M/LC-1 combo, and it works great - I've even stopped bringing the original WM box on longer trips :-)

 

I've put a number of pics and a describtion on my site: http://www.guzzitech.dk/10/1100%20Sport/My16M/My16M.htm.

 

/Jens

http://www.guzzitech.dk/english