gear box

[Guest Eric123]

I was out riding around the Civil War battle fields in my area and damn that gear box. I had a few false neutrals, not engaging first, and all around clunky-ness. WTF?!? I thought the bike was in first when I pulled out into traffic but it stalled in second

 

Anyone knows what is going on--02 LeMans with 3900 miles--? Please tell me I can eleviate some of this with a change to synthetic oil in the gearbox. I admit sometimes engaging first from neutral requires a blip of the throttle, and most of the overall shifting seems OK--especially with moving up the gears.

 

I am just concerned that it might be something I might have to take to a mechanic to fix. I know the bikes don't start loosening up untill many more miles, but I want to keep any issues in check.

[Ouiji Veck]

Behind the starter on the tranny plate there's a big acorn nut with another

locking nut and the bolt they're threaded onto adjusts. This rotates a cam type device that

works with the shifter to select gears.

I may be a bit off here but I went throught his when I checked my shifting spring.

I had to cut an allen wrench and a 17MM open end to get at the whole thing so I could field adjust

it (such is my way)

This is a general idea of a possible solution to your problem and my main point is don't panic.

It probably can be adjusted...in short order.

Do a search and see if you can come up with a better discription...even my original.

Did it June or July 05...02 LeMans..

I'm too beat to help more right now.....................zzzzzzzzzzzz.

[RonV11]

I had some similar issues on my 00 V11Sport... A change to Red Line Shockproof Heavy (Per this lists recomendation) made a big difference (for the better). Now it shifts more like my Honda

[dlaing]

Dittos on what they said.

If the blown shifts are almost all down shifts or almost all up shifts, then the solution is the adjuster under the acorn nut.

If the blown shifts increase with heat, RedLine shockproof Heavy will save the day.

If both gloves fit, you must convict.

[Guest Eric123]

Behind the starter on the tranny plate there's a big acorn nut with another

locking nut and the bolt they're threaded onto adjusts. This rotates a cam type device that

works with the shifter to select gears.

I may be a bit off here but I went throught his when I checked my shifting spring.

I had to cut an allen wrench and a 17MM open end to get at the whole thing so I could field adjust

it (such is my way)

This is a general idea of a possible solution to your problem and my main point is don't panic.

It probably can be adjusted...in short order.

Do a search and see if you can come up with a better discription...even my original.

Did it June or July 05...02 LeMans..

I'm too beat to help more right now.....................zzzzzzzzzzzz.

 

 

I will search for it--at any rate I am probably going to add the synthetic oil too. So when I check the shift spring, how would I adjust it?

[stogieBill]

There is no adjustment on the shift spring. If its the shift sprin; its a replacement.

 

If the acorn nut adjuster is off, you need to try increments of 1/8 turn until the shifting is spot on. You may have to try the adjustment both ways (as the screw turns) until you experience improvement.

 

Good luck

[Dan M]

Dittos on what they said.

If the blown shifts are almost all down shifts or almost all up shifts, then the solution is the adjuster under the acorn nut.

If the blown shifts increase with heat, RedLine shockproof Heavy will save the day.

If both gloves fit, you must convict.

 

 

dlaing's got it.

 

Change the fluid first, Not just any synthetic, Redline shockproof lubricant contains magic. Better yet, take the cover off and clean out all of the metal paste first. I had the same trouble around 3000mi in hot weather.

With the low miles and if no one has fiddled with it, the adjuster under the acorn nut is probably OK.

[Guest Eric123]

dlaing's got it.

 

Change the fluid first, Not just any synthetic, Redline shockproof lubricant contains magic. Better yet, take the cover off and clean out all of the metal paste first. I had the same trouble around 3000mi in hot weather.

With the low miles and if no one has fiddled with it, the adjuster under the acorn nut is probably OK.

 

 

I don't think it has fiddled with. The previous owner only put 3000 or so miles before I bought it. He had some dealer service, but more than likely, the gear oil is probably crap. I wouldn't be suprised if it was pasty in there. How easy is it to get the cover off?

[twhitaker]

I don't think it has fiddled with. The previous owner only put 3000 or so miles before I bought it. He had some dealer service, but more than likely, the gear oil is probably crap. I wouldn't be suprised if it was pasty in there. How easy is it to get the cover off?

 

It's not terribly difficult. You have to remove the starter. Unless you like to see sparks, disconnect the battery first. At least one lf the lower screws in the cover plate is close to the frame. Hence the need for a cut off allen wrench

[RonV11]

Put this in the catagory of possible fixes that are *FREE*...

Try adjusting your shift lever.

 

This may not help at all, however, all you will be out is a little time.

 

From the Motobits rearset documentation... http://www.motobits.com/raceset.doc

"A note on geometry

The foot works better pushing down than pulling up. So setting up the shifter linkage is most important for the pulling up (Normal or GP shift, doesn’t matter) on the lever. Try to get the rod and lever arms at 90degrees to each other when the shifter is loaded (the tight spot just before popping into gear) in the up position..."

[Guest Eric123]

Put this in the catagory of possible fixes that are *FREE*...

Try adjusting your shift lever.

 

This may not help at all, however, all you will be out is a little time.

 

From the Motobits rearset documentation... http://www.motobits.com/raceset.doc

"A note on geometry

The foot works better pushing down than pulling up. So setting up the shifter linkage is most important for the pulling up (Normal or GP shift, doesn’t matter) on the lever. Try to get the rod and lever arms at 90degrees to each other when the shifter is loaded (the tight spot just before popping into gear) in the up position..."

 

Yeah, there should be a separate catagory in here about free fixes. I was riding last night and was real forceful with the gearbox. The lighter I was, the less it wanted to work!! So I think I am gonna try all of these approaches, especially the oil.

[Ouiji Veck]

Put this in the catagory of possible fixes that are *FREE*...

Try adjusting your shift lever.

 

This may not help at all, however, all you will be out is a little time.

 

From the Motobits rearset documentation... http://www.motobits.com/raceset.doc

"A note on geometry

The foot works better pushing down than pulling up. So setting up the shifter linkage is most important for the pulling up (Normal or GP shift, doesn’t matter) on the lever. Try to get the rod and lever arms at 90degrees to each other when the shifter is loaded (the tight spot just before popping into gear) in the up position..."

 

Linkage.... must lubricate linkage

[belfastguzzi]

Anyone knows what is going on--02 LeMans with 3900 miles--?

There are a number of reports of this trouble and quite a few are 2002 bikes. There are also lots of photos on opening the transmission cover etc. Try FAQ.