Fast Idle stop post

[nose2wind]

Hello, Been doing some idle adjusting and noticed the fast idle adjustment was not haveing much effect.

 

There is a post (pressed fitting) down on the linkage where the cable connects. The cable operates a cam which rubs against this post which advances the throttle. This post is very loose mine also has a small rubber tube over the post.

 

The problem is this post is so loose it leans away from the cam rendering the whole affair usless. The cam is moving the max it can move.

 

I was thinking of drilling the post out and putting a bolt through from the bottom with a nut on top and a little tubing for a sleve that comes in contact with the cam. I could do all this without removing anything from the bike.

 

Any better ideas?

 

TIA

[Guest ratchethack]

David, I wouldn't attempt what you've described without removing the assembly from the bike. It's easy enough to do. Sounds like a previous owner put a rubber sleeve over the little roller that contacts the throttle advance cam in an attempt to get more range of motion out of the throttle advance. IMHO, this would be an indication that he didn't know (common to many Guzzisti by my experience ) that there's a simple adjustment screw that makes this task much easier and more accurate. Your idea isn't a bad one, but I'd be willing to bet that if you removed the assembly, a simpler and better idea would be to either stake the post back firmly in place, or if necessary, have it spot-welded for a coupla bucks at y'er local welder.

[nose2wind]

David, I wouldn't attempt what you've described without removing the assembly from the bike. It's easy enough to do. Sounds like a previous owner put a rubber sleeve over the little roller that contacts the throttle advance cam in an attempt to get more range of motion out of the throttle advance. IMHO, this would be an indication that he didn't know (common to many Guzzisti by my experience ) that there's a simple adjustment screw that makes this task much easier and more accurate. Your idea isn't a bad one, but I'd be willing to bet that if you removed the assembly, a simpler and better idea would be to either stake the post back firmly in place, or if necessary, have it spot-welded for a coupla bucks at y'er local welder.

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Thanks for the reply, I didn't look at the assembly that close. What is involved in removing it? Also I don't know of the adjustment you spoke of. Does it move the post closer to the cam? I have adjusted the cable that pulls the cam forward and back. Also is the post held in place by a punched seat. I might be able to re-punch it. However it might get loose again. So I can remove the rubber tubing. It is not a Guzzi part. I was surprized to find it there and wondered if someone had added it! I also have a gas welder if needed to secure the post.

[Guest ratchethack]

Thanks for the reply, I didn't look at the assembly that close. What is involved in removing it?

David, take off the main nut at the bottom of the TB butterfly shaft and the adjustment screw on the roller arm. It'll come right off.

Also I don't know of the adjustment you spoke of. Does it move the post closer to the cam? I have adjusted the cable that pulls the cam forward and back.

It's a downward-facing slotted screw in a curved slot on the roller arm. It allows rotation of the roller arm (loosen it first) and locates the roller relative to the throttle advance cam. Using the adjustment screw is LOTS easier and far more accurate than messing with the cable-end keeper - but almost NO ONE seems to know it's there.

Also is the post held in place by a punched seat. I might be able to re-punch it. However it might get loose again.

Yes, yes, and per my post above, you may have to get it welded if it can't be re-staked solid enough.

So I can remove the rubber tubing. It is not a Guzzi part. I was surprized to find it there and wondered if someone had added it!

Yes you can remove the rubber tubing piece. Yes, someone added it. Using the adjustment screw, there's no need for it. Adjust the position of the roller arm so the roller just spins freely with the idle advance lever on the bar all the way up (forward) to get full range of motion at the TB.

I also have a gas welder if needed to secure the post.

If'n y'er a real pro, you might be able to gas weld it without over-heating the roller and welding it solid , but it looks to me like it'd be a fiddly enough job for heliarc or TIG for a proper result.

 

BTW - Long as y'er at it, in case you don't yet know Skeeve's Most Phenomenal Discovery - If you trade springs between the one on the throttle advance cable at the TB with the one at the seat end of the seat cable release, BOTH will actually work the way they're supposed to!!

 

Hope this helps.

[nose2wind]

BTW - Long as y'er at it, in case you don't yet know Skeeve's Most Phenomenal Discovery - If you trade springs between the one on the throttle advance cable at the TB with the one at the seat end of the seat cable release, BOTH will actually work the way they're supposed to!!

 

Hope this helps.

 

I noticed this before. I guess this spring swap makes the seat spring stronger and the T advance easier. My throttle advance does seem hard to advance, However the seat seems fine.

 

thanks,

 

dv