wheelsucker Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 so I'm wiring up my driving lights(going from my battery), I have two 35w h3 bulbs and using a 15amp fuse, I've got a relay in there as well. Is that a big enough fuse or should it be bigger, maybe a 20 or 25amp? Also, anyone know how much the Guzzi can handle as far as extra power? 35x2=70watts for two lights, could a 15/20watt heated jacket be added or would this stall out my le mans?
callison Posted August 19, 2006 Posted August 19, 2006 It won't stall right away, but I think with the load of two driving lights and heated clothing it most certainly will drain the battery to the point where the bike will cease to run. None of the Guzzis with the crankshaft mounted alternator have a whole lot of spare power.
dlaing Posted August 19, 2006 Posted August 19, 2006 You probably won't be able to use the driving lights all the time. Especially not for short trips in the city, but maybe long trips on the freeway You might consider an LED taillight to gain an extra 4 watts (and even more when braking) 15A is more than enough for 90Watts of accessories. 10A would be safer.
Guest Gary Cheek Posted August 19, 2006 Posted August 19, 2006 You probably won't be able to use the driving lights all the time. Especially not for short trips in the city, but maybe long trips on the freeway You might consider an LED taillight to gain an extra 4 watts (and even more when braking) 15A is more than enough for 90Watts of accessories. 10A would be safer. I would second Dlaing's comments. You are doing the right thing by using relays and the35 watt bulbs are a better choice than the common 55 watt, Keep the ON time down to only when needed. A nice accessory for all bikes is one of the LED voltage monitors by Kuryakyn (SIC??) . They are a color bar=graph arrangement and they will alert you when it is time to lighten the load. For thode who tryt o "fix" the situation with a high capacity battery, remember it also takes longer to charge a higher capacity battery. So, if it takes twice as long to discharge on the road it will need twice as long to recover when the load is removed.
wheelsucker Posted August 19, 2006 Author Posted August 19, 2006 okay, so I've got everything pretty much wired up. The only problem I've run into is that I need to tie one wire into a switched power wire, like the headlight/taillight. Can someone help me identify the/ switched wire like the headlight? I was planning on using one of the inline connectors (the kind that adds one wire to an already run line, you just clamp down on the run wire), Then I can post some pics of the installed lights.
dlaing Posted August 20, 2006 Posted August 20, 2006 Stay away from this type of connector Instead use this type http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html (although I have used posi-tite and posi-seal I have not used the posi-tap,so it is possible you would have to cut the wire) If that is the case I'd solder into the headlight line. Also, if you look at Gary Cheek's site, he has excellent illustrations of improving the stock headlight wiring
Guest Gary Cheek Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Stay away from this type of connector Instead use this type http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html (although I have used posi-tite and posi-seal I have not used the posi-tap,so it is possible you would have to cut the wire) If that is the case I'd solder into the headlight line. Also, if you look at Gary Cheek's site, he has excellent illustrations of improving the stock headlight wiring Thank you OH THANK YOU! Those are worse than just twisting the wires together and wrapping with masking tape!
Guest Nigelstephens Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 I tend to favour solding additional connections to the loom. Just had a problem with an indicator bullet connector. Simple solution. Wire-cutters to cut to length and bare the ends. Then solder and insulate. Highly reliable.
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