Tachometer Issue

[guzzidog11]

I have started to have some issues with the Veglia tachometer on my 2001 V11 Sport. It works fine about half the time. The other half of the time it bounces around between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs no matter how fast I rev the engine. I checked some of the other threads on tach problems on this forum and saw a few about tach failures but I didn't see anything specific on this type of problem. I understand that the tach reads signals from the ECU. I have checked all of the electrical connections and the ECU and everything appears to be fine. My next step is to pull the tach apart and check the wiring inside that unit. Before I do that I thought I would ask if anyone has any suggestions on any other items I should check? Thanks in advance.

 

John Sager

[Guest ratchethack]

John, I don't know if you found the posts by Carl Allison on the weak ground path that tends to deteriorate over time. He's provided a good procedure with photo's. This would be the first avenue of approach. Barring a weak ground, per my sad tale of Veglia Borletti woe posted over a year back, you could try paspeedo.com. They have a great depth of expertise, parts in stock, and are a reputable company with that most rare of professional attributes these days -- integrity. Not cheap, but well worth it.

 

Good luck!

[guzzidog11]

Ratchethack -

I didn't see Carl's thread. I am new on this board and I may not have done a correct search. It sounds like Carl's post is exactly what I need. Do you have a link by chance? Thanks much.

John

[Guest ratchethack]

John, I don't have the time to do an in-depth search right now, but this link from over 2 years ago (not the one I was looking for) should help get you started. Try more searches filtering with callison.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=tachometer

[guzzidog11]

Thanks, Ratchet. I will search until I find the thread. This is very helpful. I appreciate it.

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Guzzidog,

 

Hope you report your findings. My tach just quit. I will wait to see what you find, it beats tearing into the thing. I suspect it will be like so many othe Veglia electronic tachs. A simple component separation at the circuit board. Trouble is the work involved in unrolling the bezel crimp and re-hemming.

[luhbo]

... Trouble is the work involved in unrolling the bezel crimp and re-hemming.

 

I found a solution that suits me well: I cut open the housing and let the chrome ring untouched. I opened this ring once and never got it perfectly back again. It's just impossible.

 

Cutting the housing carefully 1 or 2 cm above the ground will give you entrance to the internals and after your repair is done you can easily reconnect the two halfes with epoxy and glas tape or similar stuff.

 

BTW, my tach also is tilt actually. Up to 2500 it works ok, then it stops softly waving at 3000.

 

Hubert

[Guest ratchethack]

I found a solution that suits me well: I cut open the housing and let the chrome ring untouched. I opened this ring once and never got it perfectly back again. It's just impossible.

 

Cutting the housing carefully 1 or 2 cm above the ground will give you entrance to the internals and after your repair is done you can easily reconnect the two halfes with epoxy and glas tape or similar stuff.

 

BTW, my tach also is tilt actually. Up to 2500 it works ok, then it stops softly waving at 3000.

 

Hubert

It's not easy, but the chrome ring can be carefully removed and replaced without a trace of having been violated. I've done it 3 times. After the first time it gets easier, but the ring can only take about 3 cycles.

[Guest Gary Cheek]

It's not easy, but the chrome ring can be carefully removed and replaced without a trace of having been violated. I've done it 3 times. After the first time it gets easier, but the ring can only take about 3 cycles.

 

I turn a good fitting ring out of brass on the lathe. By supporting the ring you can carefully unroll the hem that retains the ring. The same ring is then reused as a supprt and form while re-hemming the roll crimp. Time consuming but what the hey? It's a HOBBY!

[luhbo]

It's not easy, but the chrome ring can be carefully removed and replaced without a trace of having been violated. I've done it 3 times. After the first time it gets easier, but the ring can only take about 3 cycles.

 

And still water tight?

 

How can you say it stands only 3 penetrations when you haven't tried a fourth one?

 

While I had a job as as lorry driver I had a colleague who prefered an open system on his speedometer. Above 100 km/h he put the glass away and stoped the needle with his finger. It's an impressive thing: 40 tons of italian truck on the Bahn at about 140 km/h downhill with a snapped german camionista guiding it one hand in the speedo and one hand at the wheel. If he wasn't smoking all the time he'd probably been singing also to serve all possible clichés.

 

Hubert

 

I turn a good fitting ring out of brass on the lathe. By supporting the ring you can carefully unroll the hem that retains the ring. The same ring is then reused as a supprt and form while re-hemming the roll crimp. ..

 

Good idea. I was trying to do it with a screwdriver only. No good results.

 

... Time consuming but what the hey? It's a HOBBY!

 

[Guest ratchethack]

And still water tight?

Yes. It's been through many washings and several downpours on the road. She's as tight as a frog's behind -- and that, as they say m'friend, is water-tight!

How can you say it stands only 3 penetrations when you haven't tried a fourth one?

Well Hubert, by the 3rd pass from my experience, the ring begins to show the kinds of fatigue from cycling the crimp that generally precedes failure. That's just by my experience, my judgment, and by my own direct observation. I've got a spare just in case I need it and will undoubtedly use it next pass. BTW - per my experience, the rings can be very hard to find in stock anywhere.

 

(see post #4 at the thread from nearly 2 years ago here):

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...4453&hl=pry

[callison]

John, I don't know if you found the posts by Carl Allison on the weak ground path that tends to deteriorate over time. He's provided a good procedure with photo's. This would be the first avenue of approach. Barring a weak ground, per my sad tale of Veglia Borletti woe posted over a year back, you could try paspeedo.com. They have a great depth of expertise, parts in stock, and are a reputable company with that most rare of professional attributes these days -- integrity. Not cheap, but well worth it.

 

Good luck!

 

There's photos? Dayumm! That sneaky camera! 'Cause I never took any. I should've but I didn't. One of these days though, I have the perfect candidate hanging around in a box somewhere. FWIW, here's the URL to the article at guzzitech. Scroll on down to the red...

 

Curing tach and electrical problems for the Sport 1100, Daytonas, and others.

 

If that doesn't work for you, here's another reference on repairs done by a shop. Electronic Tach Fix

[Guest ratchethack]

There's photos? Dayumm! That sneaky camera! 'Cause I never took any. I should've but I didn't.

It's that pesky dain bramage again. But I'm pretty sure somebody posted photos at one point??

 

I remember shots of the studs & everything. . . . . Or am I mis-remembering visions etched in my mind of my own excursion into the rarified inner landscapes of Veglia Borletti??

 

A remembery is a terrible thing to lose.

[guzzidog11]

Thanks for all of the valuable information. I'm impressed with all of the knowledge on this board. I am still trying to find an evening to tear into the project. I have noticed that if I wiggle around the wiring harness that goes into the back of the tach, I get a temporary fix of the problem. I'll try to post something when I have some information to share. Thanks again.

John Sager

[callison]

Thanks for all of the valuable information. I'm impressed with all of the knowledge on this board. I am still trying to find an evening to tear into the project. I have noticed that if I wiggle around the wiring harness that goes into the back of the tach, I get a temporary fix of the problem. I'll try to post something when I have some information to share. Thanks again.

John Sager

 

That sounds very much like the case stud problem.